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Bet this ruined someone’s day
- Thread starter bfk
- Start date
Someone drilled past the ends of the flutes.
Likely just bound at the end.
If heat and tug does not work then place in lathe, chuck by drill bit and carefully with parting tool part about 1/2 inch below the surface.
When you get close use had saw then if it does not slip out wedges to remove.
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Likely just bound at the end.
If heat and tug does not work then place in lathe, chuck by drill bit and carefully with parting tool part about 1/2 inch below the surface.
When you get close use had saw then if it does not slip out wedges to remove.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2019
- Messages
- 2,056
Since it was drilled past the end of the flutes that means the flutes are likely packed hard with swarf, add spinning motion and that swarf likely is welded to the sides of the hole.
A BFH will not work. You need to loosen the press fit of the flutes to the swarf and then unscrew the drill. I would use a torch to heat the AL to put the least amount of heat into the drill. Along with LOTS of good penetrating oil. The "screw" action will be very weak to non existent, You will have to pull hard while turning. I would chuck the shank in the lathe, Heat the block with a torch, then use a big pipe wrench to turn the block (the right way) while using a big crowbar between the block and the chuck for the push. It is the push that will be doing most of the work, the twist is just to help follow the path.
Or just keep as is for the wall of shame.
A BFH will not work. You need to loosen the press fit of the flutes to the swarf and then unscrew the drill. I would use a torch to heat the AL to put the least amount of heat into the drill. Along with LOTS of good penetrating oil. The "screw" action will be very weak to non existent, You will have to pull hard while turning. I would chuck the shank in the lathe, Heat the block with a torch, then use a big pipe wrench to turn the block (the right way) while using a big crowbar between the block and the chuck for the push. It is the push that will be doing most of the work, the twist is just to help follow the path.
Or just keep as is for the wall of shame.
Or something different...
Carefully drill a very small hole from the side in line with the drill.
Clamp in vise, but with exposed drill directly under the drill, lower drill until touch and set depth.
Shift to center and carefully drill down.
Once bottomed change bits to drill for threading a Grease zerk and tap.
Now remove and with portable drill carefully drill through, if very lucky you land between flutes, if not you touch the bit, either way you make a pathway.
Insert zerk and use thickest Grease you have and pump it out.
Should come out, it will be lubricated and will help.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Carefully drill a very small hole from the side in line with the drill.
Clamp in vise, but with exposed drill directly under the drill, lower drill until touch and set depth.
Shift to center and carefully drill down.
Once bottomed change bits to drill for threading a Grease zerk and tap.
Now remove and with portable drill carefully drill through, if very lucky you land between flutes, if not you touch the bit, either way you make a pathway.
Insert zerk and use thickest Grease you have and pump it out.
Should come out, it will be lubricated and will help.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk