Bolts for mounting new chuck

The_Apprentice

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So, I want to try mounting my collet chuck onto the flag tomorrow. I don't have extra M8 bolts (the others are inside the 3-Jaw). From my checking it's a typical 1.25 thread.

I the collet chuck itself is threaded, and then the bolt will to through the flange holes. I need about 35mm of length to make it the right length, but most bolts in this category I've looked at only thread partway up the bolt length when they get that long.

I think I have a solution from Lowes:

https://www.lowes.ca/bolts/the-hill...metric-mm-serrated-flange-bolts_g1187026.html

I will make a stop tomorrow, and pick up a few extra washers too, as I've noticed every bolt I look at does not thread all the way to the cap, but has a little gap.

I'm just checking in here first for word, as I'm not sure if any old timers looking at this are cringing and about to say "Hey Idiot! That's not the type of bolt you use for a lathe chuck. You need... a heat-treated, x-rated, blah, blah, thingy-merbober-bolt for that type of job!"
 
Likely, I would use socket head (allen) capscrews, and counterbore them into the flange if there is enough thickness. Hope I did not cringe too much!
 
Do yourself a favour and find a Home Hardware nearby, e.g. 3639 Portage Road, NF. They have a great selection of SHCS as well as bolts. (Grade 8 even)Those Lowes bolts are like butter. You should not be using washers for this.

35mm sounds a bit long for a collet chuck mounting to flange?
Can you post a photo with metric scale alongside?
 
Old timers made things that keep working, unlike nowadays . Them cheesy bolts will work, for a while
 
(Grade 8 even)Those Lowes bolts are like butter.

The sample I picked up at Home Depot (and Lowes Today), are 8.8 grade, so I think we are good there?

One thing I noticed putting 2 of the bolts on today, is the 35mm are actually too short. Now I see why the lathe came with super-thin nuts. LOL.

I may have to grab 40mm instead (but I don't think they come fully threaded), and if too long, I can put an extra washer or two under the caps.

Was going to show a pic for today, but my iPhone died. May get around to it later.

Originally there were split-washers that came with the other chuck, the but old-timers around here tell me lathes shouldon't use those, and to go with flat-washers intead.

That said, before I screw on the new chuck all the way, I think it is time I take off the head-stock and look inside. There is more grinding over time going on, and maybe something wonky in there with the gears.

My main 2 worries are,

1. How to make sure I put it all together right again when done. LOL
2. How to make sure I don't end up putting the head-stock on crooked, etc.

So, seems tomorrow will be quite a learning experience one way or another... I will probably try to view some youtube videos on dealing with the head-stock later tonight.
 
I can't, of course, directly answer your questions.
I do, however, have some thoughts that might pan out in your situation:

The first thought that came to mind when I read your question was a similar situation that I faced in the mill. i.e. A bolt that needed threads up to the head. In this situation, I needed a 6mm X 1mm pitch. With no 6x1 all thread within miles, I used some 6x1x40(?) long setscrews with nuts and washers. They were a pain to get nuts onto them but held quite well. Still running, I hope, though I've been gone for years.

Now, to rechecking the truth of the head(stock), I will unequivitively recomend "Rollie's Dad's Method" of setting the truth. It can be found at several sites. The one that comes to mind is "Metal Web News". Sorry I can't provide a link on short notice but a search should turn it up fairly quickly. Very slow process, but quite true at the finish. The best part is that a dial indicator (edit) is the only fancy tool needed. And a piece of round bar that doesn't even need to be perfectly straight. ReBar would be a little too loose, but a piece of pipe would do to start.

Hope that I helped;
Bill Hudson​
 
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At this point, I seem to have worse things to tackle than checking the head-stock.

I spent hours today re-building the lathe. Even did an electrical test forward & reverse before putting on the final covers etc.

Put in the new chuck and then I notice the lathe is 100% dead. Doesn't even try to turn. Played around with it but motor refuses to even try to start.

Ohh well, another mystery to solve, I'll wait until tomorrow and then take another look at the electrical. Maybe something started to bind or twist when I put the panel back on, or something else going on there.... There definitely was not much room to play with.
 
First thing I was going to check. Looks like the wire inside the fuse is still fine. Geeze... I took another look tonight, played around, no juice. Don't understand what the hell happened. LOL

I guess I will have to take a close examination of possible pulled wires, etc. And find some basic troubleshooting steps somewhere.

My yellow & green wires are screwed in correct at least?


IMG_7653.JPG
 
Update!

Looks like I may have found the source of the problem. There is a blue wire that's been ripped from the soldered connection. This blue-wire groups with a brown and is connected to that black thing which sits on top of the lathe and shuts it off when you lift the cover over the chuck.

Unfortunately this safety feature is so much a problem and in the way that I never care to use it anyway. I would be happy to just cut the other brown wire and eliminate this safety feature altogether, but I guess it would not be that easy.

Looks like I'll have to buy a soldering iron and the rest of it, if I can't find a spare in my step-dad's group of tools I have piled around here.

IMG_7654.JPG
 
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