Bondhus Tee Handle sets - which ones?

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Alan H.

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I am going to upgrade my hex T handles. From my research here and elsewhere, Bondhus is what I have settled on. I will buy two sets, metric and SAE. They have lots of options to choose from.

So now to decide:
  1. Ball or hex end? (Leaning to plain hex end for strength - got other ball ends when needed.)
  2. Lengths - graduated, 6", or 9"? (EDIT: Ball ends only come in graduated sets)
  3. Set with stand or without? Are their stands worth having? To buy a set with a stand is likely the answer since they will be more available and therefore cheaper.

Feedback and/or advice would be appreciated.
 
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IMHO the Ball End is just as strong as plain hex end. The plus side being able to angle the wrench. As far as the stands go, I seldom put them away quickly so you know what comes next. LOL Don't go cheaper if you don't have to. I've see cheap sets that were soft.

"Billy G"
 
To avoid any regert (sorry, I was eating a Milky Way!:)). Just buy ALL the options. The sets are not that much and each variety has its advantages and disadvantages…Dave
 
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Ball, if you are going to need more torque take out a regular allen key.
I like the stand. I keep mine in the stand, or at the machine. Machines that I use them at all the time have dedicated T's, but I like the stand so that when I need to go working on something I'll take the stand with me.
 
Ball, if you are going to need more torque take out a regular allen key.
I like the stand. I keep mine in the stand, or at the machine. Machines that I use them at all the time have dedicated T's, but I like the stand so that when I need to go working on something I'll take the stand with me.
Jeff, I discovered that the ball end sets only come in graduated lengths. Has that bothered you or is it a plus?

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I prefer the non-ball ended tee handle wrenches. A ball end tee handle will not stand up straight in a socket when you need it to do so. It wants to fall down when using it. I like the ball end screw drivers they came out with first years ago and still can get. I have my dad's set he used, still holding up good!
 
the reason for that is torque I believe. The lighter duty would snap or twist if you over torqued them, so they are the length that will provide the correct amount of torque to protect the tool and possibly the head of the socket itself (if tightening).

I have not been bothered by it.

What I am curious about is the finish. Does anyone feel the titanium are the way to go over the black oxide? You didn't ask, so I figured I would ;)
 
. . . . . . . Does anyone feel the titanium are the way to go over the black oxide? You didn't ask, so I figured I would ;)
Jeff, I didn't see that option on their website for T Handles. I could have missed it.
 
I prefer to have both straight and ball ends. The balls will snap under high torque. That is where the straight come in.

I was taught a trick many moons ago by a machinist. It does work most of the time. To remove a stuck set screw or SHCS, use a regular long arm allen wrench. With the wrench inserted in the fastener, using light bouncing raps on the wrench with a ball peen hammer, after several times, the fastener will come loose.
I have found this to work most of the time without damage to the wrench or fastener.
 
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