Boring Gingery Head Stock

H

horty

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Hi again, I would like to put a set of tapered roller bearings in my gingery lathe.
Its working fine but its a constant bearing adjustment and sometimes I'll get
a little chatter, usually on the second to last cut and then it wont clean up, that sucks.

I cant bore out the head stock like I originally did unless I remove the head stock and
set it to move into the revolving boring bar, according to gingery.

You guys that have built gingery lathes know that gingery says not to do it similar to
the way I describe below.

Would it work to machine a bar to make sure there is no taper between centers.

Then setup a boring bar to run in bushings in the tail stock and then connect the lead screw
to the tail stock and manually feed it into the head stock.

Once the first section is bored out, install a set of bushing in the hole to support the
boring bar for the last section to be bored.

I have a small motor to set up and run the boring bar or else a drill on slow speed.

Let me know what you think, or any comment about this.
:bang head:
Thanks,
Tim
 
Could you post a picture of the lathe as it currently sits please as it may help us help you better.

Ok just thinking out loud not really knowing what I'm dealing with other then what you stated and also knowing accuracy is key........Is there any way you could setup a "spider" onto the far left side of lathe headstock that will be the outside bearing to support your boaring bar held in the tailstock on the other end? Of course you will need to figure a way to temporarily afix the spider to the head casting that will not interfere with the cut on either side. When you make your boaring bar im thinking to cut a slot to hold the cutting tool at both ends of the bar so you only need to place the cutting tool and set its height without moving the bar itself from its set position. Of course if you have enough torque to turn the bar available you may be able to do both holes at the same time although Would Not Recommend going so! If need be you could run the bar turning operation from the spider side pending what type of equipment you are working with and how you make your bar.
 
I know exactly what your saying, laying in bed last night that Idea came into my mushy old brain, I have never ( line bore) think that's what its called.
before, correct me if I'm wrong.
Sounds like you have done this before!!
I will send a few pics, right now need to get my pole barn organized and make winter room for all my stuff. waited to long last year and and got pretty cold out there, this year will try to get ahead of things.
Give me a few days and I'll get some pics up, but sounds like it will work if I do some careful set-up.
Thanks and Have a Nice day:)
Tim
 
I think you could make a boring bar end support like you are talking about. You could make a casting that would bolt down to the bed (like the headstock) but with only enough sticking up to put a bearing (roller or bronze) into. You could mark the center of this with the lathe itself so that it's in the right place and finish it. Then, move the headstock to the right, bolt the bearing support to the left of the headstock and then use the tailstock to re-bore the headstock. The boring bar could slide through the support bearing to allow for movement of the bar through the headstock. I don't see any reason this wouldn't work, and should give a stable platform. You just need to make sure there is enough room between the bearing support and the headstock to make tool adjustments, as you will have to have stops on the inside of the headstock bearing pockets for the tapered roller bearings to seat against. You might also think about using angular contact bearings, as these can be had with seals so you don't have to worry about grease retention. They perform the same function as tapered rollers, taking both radial and axial loads. good luck.
 
Both very good ideas, and your right about the bearings, I wont have to worry about how to preload somehow.
Using angular contact bearings would be a lot better, I have a serpentine belt idler/tightener that I'm looking at and that
bearing looks like a double angular contact bearings, these always have axial load on them and this one has 200,000 miles on it and still
feels like new. Maybe could use one like that for the front bearing and a single angular contact bearing for the rear.
Not sure how much bigger the spindle should be, now is .75" but maybe could go to an 1" or 1.125", if need to I could make some new bearing caps
that would be large enough to accept a larger OD bearing..
What are you guys opinions on the spindle. I have no threading capabilities but could have it threaded when done. Would need to make new back plates and everything else that use to mount on .75" spindle, but I wouldn't mind doing that.
Thanks
TimLATHE4.jpgLATHE3.jpg
 
Just a thought...... I started to build the Gingery lathe, but working for a living got in the way so I bought one. (actually several) The Gingery lathe is built with aluminium castings. Not alloys, almost pure aluminium. Very soft......

What about cutting recesses in both sides of the headstock and using trailer wheel bearings? Granted, they aren't shielded, perhaps a shielded equivilent. It would involve adapting a few parts, but good for hundreds(thousands?) of hours at almost no cost.

Or just me babbling again?

.
 
Take a look on VXB bearings, you can find what you are looking for there. All the angular contact bearings I've seen are metric, but since you plan on changing the spindle anyway, that shouldn't be a problem. You may have to find the bearing number you are looking for on VXB (they have a nice search by size feature) and then look on ebay for a shielded/sealed version as they don't seem to carry many of those. If you use a double on one end to take the trust you can just use a regular ball bearing on the other, only one side needs to take thrust. Enjoy.
 
Bi11Hudson said:
Just a thought...... I started to build the Gingery lathe, but working for a living got in the way so I bought one. (actually several) The Gingery lathe is built with aluminium castings. Not alloys, almost pure aluminium. Very soft......

What about cutting recesses in both sides of the headstock and using trailer wheel bearings? Granted, they aren't shielded, perhaps a shielded equivilent. It would involve adapting a few parts, but good for hundreds(thousands?) of hours at almost no cost.

Or just me babbling again?

.
Click to expand...
I thought of that but then I would need a way to preload the bearings, and I cant cut threads for a nut, I dont have the means and the experience to do something like that and to old to learn... But a good idea..
Oh, I thought aluminum was an alloy!!
Thanks,
Tim
 
cjtoombs said:
Take a look on VXB bearings, you can find what you are looking for there. All the angular contact bearings I've seen are metric, but since you plan on changing the spindle anyway, that shouldn't be a problem. You may have to find the bearing number you are looking for on VXB (they have a nice search by size feature) and then look on ebay for a shielded/sealed version as they don't seem to carry many of those. If you use a double on one end to take the trust you can just use a regular ball bearing on the other, only one side needs to take thrust. Enjoy.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the bearing information, sounds like it will work perfect.
Now I just need to figure out what size thread and bearing sizes and
to really figure this setup correctly so I don't mess it all up..
Thanks,
Tim
 
horty said:
Thanks for the bearing information, sounds like it will work perfect.
Now I just need to figure out what size thread and bearing sizes and
to really figure this setup correctly so I don't mess it all up..
Thanks,
Tim
Click to expand...
Hi, I purchased 3 bearings for the spindle, 30mmx42mmx10, don't really need 3 but thought an extra one is good to have on hand.
Already had one for the rear, .625x1.375x.437 a brand new one with shields so should work fine.
Spent all day aligning and adjusting the lathe to the best I can so I can machine a new spindle that will be installed with the new bearings.
I wont be able to thread the 1.125x12 on the end of new spindle.
I wonder if once I take it off the centers and have it threaded else where it will mess up the perfect alignment. IMO I think it will be fine as long as I have good centers and the other machine doing the threading is of good alignment and set up properly.
Well, its going to be a slow process as this damn arthritis is really getting to me, should hear me in the morning, wife says I sound like a squealing little pig when I get out of bed. :laughing:
About 8 beers takes the pain away or 2.5 bottles of chokecherry wine, but cant work when half looped up...
Have A Nice day,
Tim
 
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