Boring head.

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Hukshawn

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Okay, now I'm just peeved off... This is just right silly.

I got a boring head for Christmas with the matching 1/2" boring bars.
The gosh forsaken boring head is a a right hand threaded attachment to the arbor. Okay, fine. I modified an arbor to thread on. Done, perfect. Go grab a boring bar, fresh from the package, wipe the gobbity-goop off, spend 20 mins touching up the grind, toss her in, "ooh wow, no deburring to speak of", I say aloud. Fine, I'll deal with that.

The Gat-Darn, McFreaking, SOB, boring bars want to be turned counter clockwise in the side holes.... With a right handed threaded arbor attachment... it'll just spin right ofd the second I touch the work...

I'm trying to cut a concave gullet in the side of a surface guage base. Thought, what a perfect time to whip out this new boring head.

For Chris Snakes....


Edited *not edited* for language. I assure you, my garage was not PG-13 just now...

Just a long line of dissapointments today.
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I guess I'll turn the bar and bore up instead of down... But cooome onnnnnn....
 
Yeah, with that bar probably you'll end up turning the bar 180 degrees and bore from the bottom up instead of the top down. There's more than one way to skin a cat!

Those bar are better suited to be used in the end holes when boring straight down.

Ted
 
Shawn, you need a left hand bar to use in the horizontal position of a boring head, with the tip on the other side of the head. Sorry you had such a bad day.
 
I guess I'll turn the bar and bore up instead of down... But cooome onnnnnn....

Sure. Figuring out how to get the task done with the tooling and equipment that you have is called "machining". It really does not matter how well your shop is set up, or how extensive a tooling collection you have - eventually (frequently) a job/operation will come along that you don't have the ideal arrangement for completing.

Machining is just another of those things which provide one the opportunity to practice & develop patience. If that is the sort of thing that gets you all torque'd up - then I predict you will have opportunity to grow your patience.
 
Yeahhh I know. It was just one of those things...

In hind sight, I should have just taken the time set this up on the rotary table and used an end mill. This 1/2 boring bar is singing like a convict in the interrogation room begging for a plea bargon!
 
Oh. Well. I'd that wasn't enough, the 2hp motor on the head just blew up in a cloud of smoke... The capacitor blew. And there may be something wrong with the drum switch too.
In the panic, I turned the motor off.... It kept running. So I pulled the disconnect beside the mill... Let that be a lesson... ALWAYS have another means to disconnect all phases as close to the device as possible. Don't rely on a breaker however far away... I let the motor stop, turned the drum switch off, plugged the disconnect back in, and it hums. It'll start when I turn the switch on, but loud humming... Pulled the disconnect....

I'm going to bed. This sounds like a job for tomorrow Shawn....
Good night world! Thanks, and screw you.
 
pin the adapter to the head. go right thru the threads along the axis of the threads once it locks together it will not unscrew . bill
 
I had the same dilemma so started making my own boring bars with carbide tips. That way you can orient the
cutter in the configuration to your liking. I have been using some scraps of H-13 material and adding some weld
for a place to hold the carbide. The carbides can be silver soldered on quite easily with a gas torch. For bolted on
carbides, I use a softer material than the H-13 as it has an extremely hard surface and makes threading an arduous task.
Most new boring bars need to be fine tuned anyway so one might as well make his own.
 
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