BOSS5 CNC Machine won't run - Mystery

[lawlessman]

Well, I know I haven't been here much lately, just haven't had much spare time. But I am in quite a pickle and I am throwing this out to all the die-hard Bridgeport CNC people who are still hanging on to BOSS5's and 6's. Here's the problem -My BOSS 5 fires up as usual, but just will not run. The control consists of a retrofitted Ah-Ha Design Group board in one of the card slots and another card in a computer running Windows 98. All of the original B'port boards in the card cage were removed. I have been running this configuration with all the same equipment for several years, so I know it worked until a few days ago. I have not changed anything.

See if you can see anything I have missed. ​

Here are the things I have checked:
There is sufficient air pressure to the machine, but the brake is not engaged (as it is when the machine is fully powered up).
The controller seems to be sending pulses out - at lease the numbers change in the display, but there is no movement.
Every fuse in the machine has been checked, twice.
Every voltage check I can find to do, 12v, 24v, 56v, and the +/- 5 and 12v regulated and unregulated outputs from the power supply.
Limit switches - none tripped
Fans all clean, filters new
Axes not jammed, spindle turns freely.
Lube oil Level - full
Looked for loose cards in the computer and loose wire connections - NONE
Power from the fuse panel and 3-phase converter, same as always
Windows loads and the Interface program comes up on screen, so the hard drive is fine.
I cannot imagine that all three power transistor modules went out simultaneously. This machine setup has been very good on Power module longevity.
The all important rectifier - the nasty one behind the power strip and power supply housing - appears to be working fine.
I have gone over the schematics as thoroughly as my reasonable familiarity with electronics and 36 years of running this particular machine allows, and cannot find any clue why this machine is not running. BTW, I have no external way to check the Ah-Ha Designs board. If that is the problem I am reallllllllly in a pickle.
So, if anyone has any idea that is not covered above, I will be very eager to try it. I need this machine running as soon as possible.
Thanks and Happy New year to you all.
Fred

 

[middle.road]

((trimmed...)
Looked for loose cards in the computer and loose wire connections - NONE
Power from the fuse panel and 3-phase converter, same as always
Windows loads and the Interface program comes up on screen, so the hard drive is fine.
.....

Can't help you in regards to the controller, but can on the PC interface. I've solved several over the years.
How long since it ran? Probably not the issue but we've nothing to lose.

How is the controller connected to the PC?
Is it using an expansion card or direct to a Mother/System board connection?

 

[Karl_T]

I ran this exact setup for years... AHHA was the first great PC control. They have been out of business for a long time.

I would first check that the computer is actually outputting pulses. This is an easy check with a logic probe.
http://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=...BXIvRnEvNOtCOm7ri-leCuFKFZHdtIqMaAp0KEALw_wcB

Then we know which way to go - computer or step driver board.

I assume you have checked the fuses - the step driver board has them.

 

[lawlessman]

Can't help you in regards to the controller, but can on the PC interface. I've solved several over the years.
How long since it ran? Probably not the issue but we've nothing to lose.

How is the controller connected to the PC?
Is it using an expansion card or direct to a Mother/System board connection?

The controller card plugs into a standard, as in ISA slot, the long one in two parts. The companion card is plugged into a card slot in the CNC, where one of the original cards was. The machine was off over the holiday as it was not in use and I was saving electricity. When I turned it back on, ....it won't run. We haven't had any electrical surges or lightning strikes, I haven't added or removed any part of the machine in quite some time. Haven't even had to change a fuse or replace a module. As far as I can tell from extensive investigation all the boards are tight, fuse caps in place, all wire connections solid. Nothing unusual. Incoming voltage is good. What am I missing???

 

[lawlessman]

?

I ran this exact setup for years... AHHA was the first great PC control. They have been out of business for a long time.

I would first check that the computer is actually outputting pulses. This is an easy check with a logic probe.
http://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=...BXIvRnEvNOtCOm7ri-leCuFKFZHdtIqMaAp0KEALw_wcB

Then we know which way to go - computer or step driver board.

I assume you have checked the fuses - the step driver board has them.

Like the housekeeper said in "Gone With The Wind" I don't know nothin' about birthin' no babies, or logic probes, for that matter. Yes, all the fuses were checked and found to be good. The actual retrofit came from a company called MachineMaster, not directly from AH-HA. I think the guy at Machine Master ginned up an interface board to go into the Bridgeport and used the Ah-Ha Controller board to make it work. Had to do a little re-wiring when I installed it back in 2000. It runs on a 386 or 486 DX2-66 computer at the moment, and I keep a couple spare computers on hand just in case that one fails because ISA slots went the way of the Do-Do bird.
Everything about the computer says it is fine at the moment. Do you still have your Ah-Ha setup, or did it join the Do-Do birds as well?

 

[Karl_T]

here's a <VERY OLD> spreadsheet that still has columns C F and G telling the pin, function and ready to run logic state.

You will need a capable elctrician type to diagnose anything past loose parts, fuses etc.

I traded AHHA out in 2004.

I'd suggest an upgrade to Mach 3. I did this upgrade back when it was Mach 2 (2001) and went back to AHHA. This would be an easy job for an experienced person.

 

[middle.road]

OK, this is going to sound 'off-the-wall' however I've used it more times than I can remember, since the early 80's.
(Please don't flame or criticize me for suggesting this. Sometimes it is the bizarre sounding remedies that work.)
Scrounge up a 'pink' eraser. either a wood pencil or a Pink Pearl eraser.
The old style ISA type card edge connectors are prone to this.
With proper static precautions, pull the card from the chassis of the PC and _gently_ rub eraser across the gold finger connectors.
Mind the eraser dust, we don't want it in the slot.
re-seat it a couple of times and then screw it down. Don't change slots yet. Chances are that the other slots in the PC are 'glazed over' from the years of sitting idle.
Start with the PC first. Then the controller 'box'.
connect and re-connect your interface cable(s) a few times also.
Not sure what the controller box looks like or it's connections are. Sometimes after a shutdown systems go awry.
As I stated at the beginning - I used this numerous times on all types of electronic controller systems that use cards.

 

[markba633csi]

I was going to suggest that too- reseat the cards and any other multi pin connectors in the system then reboot
Mark

 

[4GSR]

Hang a light bulb in the panel for a few days. Probably got too much moisture from sitting idle in the dead cold you guys are getting up there. Just a wild thought to try. Could be cold nature.

 

[Vacuum]

Another idea. First off I know nothing about your configuration of the electronics to run the mill. When the mill was powered off was the power removed from the computer also? If it was and the computer is as old as I think it is the internal battery for the BIOS clock and basic boot memory may be dead. The computer may power up but some of the housekeeping code in the program needs what it thinks is the correct date. If you can check the BIOS clock for time and date and it is not even close you may need to input a time and date then reboot the computer. Other people on the forum will know better than me but I recall the old IBM style computers would set a "bit" in BIOS that said the batter was dead. The battery was changed, the BIOS reset and the computer rebooted. Hope you get up & running soon.