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BP Quill getting tight

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JimDawson

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It's pretty easy to remove the quill. It comes out the bottom, and you don't have to remove anything on top except the draw bar.

I wrote up how to do it here
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/bp-quill-getting-tight.31395/#post-318291

I did forget one step above, you have to also remove the quill stop. Which means getting the quill stop screw out of the way so you can get to the socket head cap screw behind it to remove the quill stop.
 

Sendit

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It's pretty easy to remove the quill. It comes out the bottom, and you don't have to remove anything on top except the draw bar.

I wrote up how to do it here
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/bp-quill-getting-tight.31395/#post-318291

I did forget one step above, you have to also remove the quill stop. Which means getting the quill stop screw out of the way so you can get to the socket head cap screw behind it to remove the quill stop.


I have the front part of the quil power feed part, with the threading rod, lock nut and other small parts off. Sorry I don't know the correct term for that section.

I followed your instruction but when I got to this part I got kinda lost

"On the left side, remove the two socket head cap screws holding the power feed clutch mechanism and remove that.
Reach in and pull out the serrated clutch half unless it came out with the rest of the hardware.
Now you should be able to access the snap ring holding the mating clutch plate. Remove the snap ring, clutch and key(s).
Now you can pull the pinion shaft out from the right side."

I removed the power feed clutch cover and the arm that attaches to the engagement lever (I'm replacing it). Looking at the end of the clutch shaft I see a small snap ring that holes the clutches/springs on the quill shaft.

*edit*
When I took the cover off I though the end I was seeing with the snap ring was the quill shaft. I see now it's not
image018.jpg

The downfeed selector and fine feed I thought were driven by the quill lever.

The spindle has to come out before all this right? J head variable speed 2hp.



EDIT 2

I found this picture, if it is a accurate representation of how the shafts are driven I see the quill shaft power the fine feed which then power the power feed selector.

snow2784.jpg


Sorry but it's hard to understand when I'm new and don't know the correct term.
 
Last edited:

JimDawson

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That's a great picture, that is what the parts look like inside.

That serrated clutch hub, on the quill shaft side, should have a snap ring keeping it on the shaft. The shaft comes out the right hand side. The thrust bearing will just be pushed off as the shaft slides out. Once the snap ring is removed, you can tap on the end of the shaft to drive it out if needed.
 

Sendit

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The washer will not fall down in some deep black hole, amusing it wont. lol

The quill and spindle then can be removed as one unit?
 

JimDawson

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It's pretty well captured in there, at least until it falls on the floor and evaporates.:rolleyes: Once the shaft is free to move, just push it out the right hand side. The quill gear may be keyed to the shaft, and may come off in this process. If so just reach in and grab it from the right hand side. The the quill should just slide out.

The spindle is inside the quill, and it does come out as one unit. Don't take it apart.
 

Sendit

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It's pretty well captured in there, at least until it falls on the floor and evaporates.:rolleyes: Once the shaft is free to move, just push it out the right hand side. The quill gear may be keyed to the shaft, and may come off in this process. If so just reach in and grab it from the right hand side. The the quill should just slide out.

The spindle is inside the quill, and it does come out as one unit. Don't take it apart.

Ok so I ran over to the shop with this new information. I manage to get the pinion shaft out and notice the quill gear had some damage. Luckly the gear is softer and is cheap to replace.

The quill on the other hand is a pain in the butt. I took a 1/2" drive extention for a socket wrench to drive it out as far as I could. I call and talked to H&W today and me mention that sometimes he has to hammer out the quills because they are so tight. The only thing that I could see hammering on is the draw bar. Boy I hope I'm right.. lol

I rose the knee to just under the quill of .100 or so. Place a 2x4 under the quill and started to drive it out. Then lower the knee .1 -.2 and hammer it again. I hit a spot where the quill wouldn't move so I sprayed WD-40 ( only thing I had on hand) to help keep the quill lubed. I used the knee to raise the quill up and then hammered it back down. It finally got passed that point and shortly after hit another one. By the time my arm was jello ( I'm small kid). So, in stead of working harder I'm thinking of working smarter. I have a air hammer and a small air compressor with a regulator. Image the socket exention in the draw bar hole with the female end of the extention facing up (the part that connects to the wrench). Use this portion to help hold the air hammer bit and give it some light blows. Hoping the frequency helps move quill. I could see chips in the quill housing from the mirco stop window.


I'm hoping WD-40 will not hurt the bearing sealed or not.

When I put the pinion gear and shaft back together what assembly oil should I use? I thought about straight motor oil but didn't know if that was acceptable or not.

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0E63AD12-D3C7-4FBB-ACD1-7744EC036B9E_zpsygztt5qz.jpg
 

JimDawson

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Wow, I've never heard of one being that tight. :confused: Pounding on the drawbar/spline is pounding directly on the spindle bearings. Not good. Might be time for a spindle bearing replacement.

I also don't understand why the pinion gear is damaged on the edge. It should contact the rack closer to the center. Looks like something is not lined up correctly.

Looks like a lot of chips at the top of the quill, is the shield even in there? It may be time to take the top off and go into things a bit deeper. This would also allow you to get to the top quill so you don't have beat on the spindle.
 

Sendit

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The guys at H&W say the top of the quil is sometimes tight and they bang them out with a brass bushing under the draw bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Falcody

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If the quill is only sticking at the very top, reach around the back side of the quill at the bottom to find the lock screw for the spindle retaining nut. If it's too tight it will make the bottom of the quill deform.
 

Sendit

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If the quill is only sticking at the very top, reach around the back side of the quill at the bottom to find the lock screw for the spindle retaining nut. If it's too tight it will make the bottom of the quill deform.
It gets tight as I push the quill down.

I got the quill out. The two screws that hold the skrit is what was holding me up.
 

SPICEMAN

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I know I am late to the party on this but after acquiring a new to me BP vari-speed J head las month I found on getting it home the quill would barely move.

Reading this and other posts on the web I tried most all the ideas listed. I finally proceeded to push (or should I say drive the whole mess out after soaking in oil and solvent for a week.
Once removed I found two issues first is a hardened build up at the lower end of housing and the other was a half in wide inch long film of light rust on side of housing about same level as quill feed. Some signs of wear on quill ram but very faint (if my lathe was up and running I would polish it). I found a very fine stone piston hone and about 5 seconds of honing cleaned all up and polished the walls.
A note I used 30wt oil to hone the walls and tried using it to slide the ram in but it had bad drag and stuck. So I cleaned and used spindle oil and it slides very nice with light pressure only. Hard part on using the hone was the square opening in the front had to be blocked so hone would not catch.

The build up and rust I believe are from previous owner leaving machine setting for a couple years.

Unfortunately I have found some one left some damage in the cabbage head so the tilt does not work. I need to repair the cracked out casting parts so the bolt heads can travel smoothly. Suspect the chip outs are from forklift operator hitting back of head with a fork.
 

Kroll

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Like my old father inlaw use to say"A news paper will always be new till you read it regardless of age"Which this can applies to post and all post are timeless.Plus like you, having a new to me BP all this post are a big help
 
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