Brand new lathe, can't turn it on yet...

Glad to see that you are comfortable with your choice of oil.

It is indeed a challenge to translate a highly technical subject into layman's terms. If you have found a convincing argument on how detergents and additives in motor oil are damaging to a lathe, would you mind sharing a link to it?

One author who demystifies somewhat the subject of oils is Kevin Cameron in his book titled ''Sportbike Performance Handbook''. He devotes a chapter on oils (pp 147-153) that goes beyond the hype and myths that are all too common.
 
Ahh yes, good question. So on MY LATHE, which everyone’s could be different, it says non detergent. I PERSONALLY have nothing against it, but I understand certain things may not have the desired outcome depending on the the manufacturer’s goal. Mine is the Grizzly G0602Z by the way. Kevin Cameron? Isn’t he the welding tips and tricks or weldmonger?
 
Ahh yes, good question. So on MY LATHE, which everyone’s could be different, it says non detergent. I PERSONALLY have nothing against it, but I understand certain things may not have the desired outcome depending on the the manufacturer’s goal. Mine is the Grizzly G0602Z by the way.

The G0602Z manual recommends the oil they sell or one of equivalent viscosity. Their goal might be to sell their oil. If there is a specification that non-detergent oils must be avoided I did not find it.
 
Just about any place you look, will say non detergent oil for things that do not have an oil filter. And detergent oil for things that do.

The detergents loosen, and keep the crud in suspension for the filter to catch. Not detergent oils let it fall to the bottom of the oil sump.

There is also an issue with newer automotive oils, not getting along with brass, bearings, gears, what ever. Apparently it bonds to the brass, then when the part is under pressure, the oil breaks off, taking some of the brass with it.

Also the newer automotive oils have done away with some of the high pressure additives, now that all automotive engines have roller cams. So they are not as good for gears, as the older oils.

Check for your self, Google will lead you to a ton of confusion. But the majority will say similar to what I just said. Do not put to much stock in the "I have done it for months, and no issue" statements. As the wrong oils/ bad effects take time to do the damage, and can easily be contributed to other things, not knowing it is the oil additives.
 
The G0602Z manual recommends the oil they sell or one of equivalent viscosity. Their goal might be to sell their oil. If there is a specification that non-detergent oils must be avoided I did not find it.
I definitely thought that....but when you have a brand new tool, you don't want to jump straight in using something that MAY be not ideal...you know? My wife made a mistake of using antifreeze i had in the garage (only "about a half a cup") it was the green kind and we found out the expensive way...VW's require the pink type.
 
Just about any place you look, will say non detergent oil for things that do not have an oil filter. And detergent oil for things that do.

The detergents loosen, and keep the crud in suspension for the filter to catch. Not detergent oils let it fall to the bottom of the oil sump.

There is also an issue with newer automotive oils, not getting along with brass, bearings, gears, what ever. Apparently it bonds to the brass, then when the part is under pressure, the oil breaks off, taking some of the brass with it.

Also the newer automotive oils have done away with some of the high pressure additives, now that all automotive engines have roller cams. So they are not as good for gears, as the older oils.

Check for your self, Google will lead you to a ton of confusion. But the majority will say similar to what I just said. Do not put to much stock in the "I have done it for months, and no issue" statements. As the wrong oils/ bad effects take time to do the damage, and can easily be contributed to other things, not knowing it is the oil additives.
no doubt that is a big problem when it comes to men, tools and cars. I know what I know and I don't fake anything. When I know I'm at my limits, I go looking for answers. You will always run into opinionated folks.
 
Also the newer automotive oils have done away with some of the high pressure additives, now that all automotive engines have roller cams. So they are not as good for gears, as the older oils.

There are still millions of vehicles on the road with non-rollerized cam to tappet valve actuation. Don't use modern (SN) oils in them, look for an oil with at least 1100 PPM of zinc (ZDDP).
 
There are still millions of vehicles on the road with non-rollerized cam to tappet valve actuation. Don't use modern (SN) oils in them, look for an oil with at least 1100 PPM of zinc (ZDDP).
Agreed. My daily driver is a 77 Dodge pickup. Out of 7 vehicles, only 2 have roller cams.
 
Wow what a let down. Got the oil, literally was MAYBE a 1/4 cup low...maybe. Thought I would do the break in procedure...no biggie, 10 minutes each speed then in reverse, ok. The 1st belt change (to take it from high speed to low speed) it took me 1.5 hours and never was happy enough with it to commit. There is a delicate balance of tension in drive belt and tension on v belt. The motor is a NIGHTMARE to tighten or loosen the belt. Too loose of a belt, well we know this issue, snug it up and the v belt gets too tight and there is no way to loosen it, only tighten with the tensioner. I guess I'll need to find someone who has had it a while and pick their brain.
You can't get a box end, open end or even socket on the sonzabitch!! Gave up ****** off!
 
Back
Top