Brass versus Steel Shimstock

Blackjackjacques

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In prepping to install a SINO DRO system on my new Rong Fu 45, I am at a juncture in deciding whether to use brass or steel shims. I will most likely need shims to properly align the etched glass scales. I have almost convinced myself that there is no functional difference; however, this is all very very new to me .....
Cost wise, there does not seem to be any significant differences. Thank you all in advance.
 
Cheap steel shims can be made from taking a feeler gauge set apart. I purchase these at flea markets, inexpensive. A good set will allow tweaking the item being shimmed in 0.001in increments.
 
Everyone has been great. So I have learned that either brass or steel is fine, and from out of left field, I can add plastic as a candidate, as well as perhaps beer can metal and dis-assembled feeler gauges. In short -- whatever I can fit. The plastic option is especially attractive given the simplicity of cutting, as stated by several users. Thanks so much for all the info.
 
I use shim stock to figure out how thick the final shim needs to be, then I machine a block up out of scrap aluminum. I will usually make this piece a few thou too thick and then trim as necessary to get it dead level.
 
I've used steel, stainless steel and brass at work. Pre-cut stainless is my favourite, duh, next is brass. Steel is used when you have hammering load. Stainless is used in corrosive environments. Brass is much easier to work and is used just about every where else.
 
I mostly like brass shim stock because it is easy to cut out with common scissors, but I have and like the plastic shim stock also. For the holes I made a punch and die set similar to what the Precision Brand shim stock sells, two pieces of CRS flat stock with two guide posts made of dowel pins, and a row of reamed holes of common sizes; for the punches, I use dowel pins with a slight taper ground in two angled facets, perhaps a few degrees on the working end, this gives a shearing cut. The one by Precision Brand uses an acrylic top guide that allows better vision of where the hole is to be punched; on mine, I just remove the punch and sight down the hole to locate the punched hole.
 
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