Brazing together bronze nuts

spike7638

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Full disclosure: I'm an utter amateur machinist, and have basically no idea what I'm talking about when I use (most) machining terms. Please bear with me.

I need to make an assembly that looks like a tall nut (a "connector nut" might be the proper name) in silicon bronze (for underwater use on a boat). The last roughly 3/4" of one end of the tall nut would be turned down to be cylindrical; the other end would actually be doing work as a nut. Here's a crude attempt at a mechanical drawing to show what I mean:
Nut.png
The part labelled "A" is hex; the part labelled B has been turned down to be a 1" diameter cylinder (with threads in the middle, but those don't matter at the "B" end).

I could start with rod, bore it out, cut internal threads, mill flats on the "nut" end, etc., but frankly...I'd probably screw it up three or four times, at great expense (both in materials and frustration).

So now I'm thinking that I could just stack up three nuts (perhaps threading them snugly onto a rod as a starting point) and braze them together. I'd have the threads I need right from the get-go, and the remainder of the assembly doesn't need to be terribly strong...but it does need to be electrically connected to the front part, or I'd be considering using something like epoxy to assemble things.

Is it possible to do this? Would I find that the brazing material wicked into the space between adjacent nuts, ran all the way to the center threaded rod, and thereby messed up everything by turning the whole assembly into a kind of weak rod? :( Is there some obvious way to do this that I'm missing?

[For those who care about details: I need to put a donut-zinc onto the back end of my propeller shaft; the geometry of the propeller cutout, the rudder, and the deadwood make putting it in the front not really feasible. The "nut" end of this thing is the second nut for the propeller; the cylindrical tail is there to give the zinc something to grab onto. The current version involves copper tubing brazed to a nut, but the OD is 7/8, and I need a larger zinc, which means going to a 1" center.]
 
I have been tempted by similar scenarios before, multiple times actually, and one feature I always discover is that nuts will not all clock the same when you tighten them onto the rod prior to brazing. In other words, the flats will not necessarily all line up. And in order to get the flats aligned, you find that some of nuts are too tight, some are too loose, etc. It can be done, but there is much trial and error fitting.

As for the other logistics of this, I'll leave to others.

-frank
 
why don't you just make a nut. 3/4-10 easy to get a tap. bronze/brass McMaster carr. a better material choice might be stainless steel (316) not (304) there might be other stainless but I am familiar with these 2 around salt water. just a suggestion bill
 
Hi Spike,

A couple thoughts......

If you put three nuts together on a threaded rod the flats will not all align, is that a problem?
I wonder if a lower temperature (silver?) soldering process would be better.
You could wax the threaded rod first, or apply soot from a candle or oxy torch.

Is there any reason why a stainless steel coupler nut wouldn't work:
https://www.amazon.com/Coupling-Nut...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00FASWCLM
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0172552
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02164754

The end for the cathodic protection disc could be turned down.

-brino
 
I have been tempted by similar scenarios before, multiple times actually, and one feature I always discover is that nuts will not all clock the same when you tighten them onto the rod prior to brazing. In other words, the flats will not necessarily all line up. And in order to get the flats aligned, you find that some of nuts are too tight, some are too loose, etc. It can be done, but there is much trial and error fitting.

As for the other logistics of this, I'll leave to others.

-frank

Right...good point. In this application, only the flats (and indeed, the threads!) on the first nut matter at all (I could turn down both the second and third nut to 1" and it'd still serve its purpose), so that's not a real consideration in this case (although your experience matches my own in other situations).
 
why don't you just make a nut. 3/4-10 easy to get a tap. bronze/brass McMaster carr. a better material choice might be stainless steel (316) not (304) there might be other stainless but I am familiar with these 2 around salt water. just a suggestion bill

I'm not at all certain that I can confidently make a nut like this with my machining skills, as I said.

As for stainless: experience has shown (or shown ME, at least) that using stainless nuts on stainless shafts in salt water generally isn't a great idea --- galling is a constant risk. If the prop shaft itself were bronze, I'd definitely consider a stainless nut.
 
Second what Frank said the nuts won't line up. Brazing bronze is tricky, they both melt at about the same temperature, silver solder might be a beter bet. When you weld nuts together they tend to pull and result in the thread binding.
1 1/8th hex material should be readily available, just need to drill, tap and turn the end down,
 
Hi Spike,

A couple thoughts......

If you put three nuts together on a threaded rod the flats will not all align, is that a problem?
I wonder if a lower temperature (silver?) soldering process would be better.
You could wax the threaded rod first, or apply soot from a candle or oxy torch.

Is there any reason why a stainless steel coupler nut wouldn't work:
https://www.amazon.com/Coupling-Nut...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00FASWCLM
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0172552
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02164754

The end for the cathodic protection disc could be turned down.

-brino

Thanks for those ideas. The lower-temps process sounds nice, but mixing a third metal into things where I'm trying to reduce electrochemical corrosion seems like the wrong direction to head. As for stainless nuts: I'd use that on a bronze shaft, but my shaft is stainless, and the potential for galling worries me. But your remarks, along with those of f350ca and others, make me think that I should re-think things a bit and see if I can come up with something different/simpler/whatever.
 
but mixing a third metal into things where I'm trying to reduce electrochemical corrosion seems like the wrong direction to head

the potential for galling worries me.

Okay, I see.
Is there any reason you could not connect the sacrificial zinc right to the stainless threaded shaft?
https://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=8201
That one woulnd't tighten onto a 3/4 inch shaft, but zinc is soft so taking a little off the mating faces to make the thru hole smaller is easy.
Just don't breathe it if you sand/grind it off!

I guess you still want a second nut to jamb the first one.....maybe the shaft isn't long enough?

-brino
 
I'd like to throw in my vote with @bfd and @f350ca - I would buy some bronze hex stock and turn the round end. Then use a 19mm drill or bore it to about 0.7482" ID, tap it and you're done. Simple job, and you CAN do it, Spike.
 
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