Bridgeport CNC with Masso Controller/Clearpath

This is going to be my first CNC build and my First build log. I've decided that a build log on this forum might be a good idea for this project so the next guy to take on this project doesn't have to deal with the stupid stuff I'm already running into.

This is my Masso Controller
GetFileAttachment.jpg
I will be using 3 Clearpath Stepper Killer servos model# CPM-SDSK-3432S-RLN
20180629_203142.jpeg
They are a little over 6" long...
20180629_203333.jpeg
almost 3.5"
20180629_203240.jpeg
1/2" shaft with a 3/16" keyway
20180629_202811.jpeg
I will be using Teknic's IPC-5 75VDC power supply
20180629_202938.jpeg
20180629_202907.jpeg
But before you can wire up you Masso controller you have to power up the Clearpath servos and plug them in to a PC with the ClearPath USB-B cable and it absolutely has to be their cable I've already tried 5 others, now I'm waiting for UPS to deliver a "Teknic Certified" USB cable. Very Lame....
Capture.JPG
Their program will not see my servos without the "Teknic Certified" USB cable...


Edit: Almost any USB cable will work.... lol
 
Last edited:
Yup it seem to be the free img to svg website making the X axis do funny stuff....

Edit: WRONG ITS THE Y AXIS SERVO!

And I think I have the tolerance and smoothing options set the wrong way in Fusion 360.... they should be higher numbers not lower for this....
 
Last edited:
Need to know the error message on the VFD, probably braking too quickly. Get a braking resistor, although some of the cheaper VFD's are missing the circuitry despite having the terminals. A 1750 RPM Baldor motor will operate at 2X it base speed and mechanically should last, they use the same bearings as a 2P motor. Performance drops off above about 90 Hz but usually not an significant amount in the 90-120 Hz. Above 120 Hz you will see more reliability and performance issues. A vector Baldor motor (IDNM series) and others do come up on eBay at times and can spin to 6K. Limitation becomes the spindle bearings.
 
This is all it says and won't do anything else.....

E.oU.d......
20200903_034516.jpg

Edit:
"OU" means overvoltage. If it happens during braking, increase the deceleration time or add a braking resistor.......

Going try changing my deceleration time before I go dumping money into a breaking resistor.......
 
Last edited:
My Y axis servo is having problems..... the black stator housing is shifting up and down while under load..... I thought it was just backlash but after adjusting the backlash the servo does funny stuff..... With jog set to. 001" steps the servo will start to turn and take up the backlash, after the backlash is over it makes extra small rotations moving the indicator less than. 0002" then randomly decides to jump into moving in .001" increments....

I have already emailed Teknic and I'm sending it in before the warranty runs out....
 
Are you saying the the servo motor is moving under load?
My first thought is the screws may be loose or the screws may be to long and bottoming out in the holes and not actually getting the motor tight. It could even be the screws holding the motor together.
 
Are you saying the the servo motor is moving under load?
My first thought is the screws may be loose or the screws may be to long and bottoming out in the holes and not actually getting the motor tight. It could even be the screws holding the motor together.

The screws were loose and I already tried to tighten them up but it didn't seem to help the movement problems..... I think it might have some kind of damage inside the encoder or maybe the bearings..... I would take it apart and try to repair it myself but its easier just let the manufacturer do it for me.....
 
Are the screws bottoming out or not threaded far enough and running out of thread before it is actually tight?

The housing parts should get tight before any of the internals bottom out. I agree with not taking it apart, that could void the warranty if it is an internal problem.
 
The screw
Are the screws bottoming out or not threaded far enough and running out of thread before it is actually tight?

The housing parts should get tight before any of the internals bottom out. I agree with not taking it apart, that could void the warranty if it is an internal problem.

The screws tightened up properly like they should but it didn't help a damn thing..... Kinda seems like it made things worse....lol We'll just have to wait for what Teknic says after they get it back.... I may just need to recalibrate it with the software, but why even have a warranty if you dont use it..... :cool:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top