Bridgeport J head noise

Dynahoe Dave

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Got my series 1 J head powered up in a temporary way tonight. In the direct drive speeds, it is making a sound I know as [soon to fail] dry bearings, sounds like it is coming from a dried out bearing in the aluminum part. Louder with higher speeds. Put it in back gear, and it's a lot quieter.

Anyone know of typical ones that go bad?
 
Dale on, metal tips and tricks, did a video on taking a few thousandths off the bottom of the cast Iron ring used to lift the gear when you put it in back gear.
Mine made a rattling noise. i Did what Dale suggested, the noise is 80% better.
I thought it was spindle bearings.
My 2 cents
 
I saw that video, am going to investigate that. But my noise is not rattling, it's - well soinds like - dry bearing noise.
 
Ted, that might be worth doing. The motor does have faint dry bearing noise also. I already ordered parts from hw twice since I got the machine, they have been great at identifying a few odd pieces I needed.
 
Do you have 2 oilers in the head?
One of mine was missing.
Use the correct oil.
 
I answered the question originally the way I did because you were concerned with bearings, but I've given it more thought. Another common thing that makes noise only in hi range is the direct drive clutch teeth. At least this is the case with a 2J head like mine. I've never had a step model apart. If you put it in hi and grab a hold of the end of the spindle where the R8 taper is, can you turn it back and forth and hear some slop/clicking? If so, this is probably what is making the noise (or at least one thing that is making noise). The step pulley models are a lot quieter than the vari speed models.

Another way to check is to disengage the hi/low lever and try to move it up higher yet and see if this changes the noise. Don't lower it, because you can grind the teeth by doing so if you move it too far; move it up only. Some plates that have the hi range hole in them can be either moved up by loosening the set screw in the side or you can flip the piece over and extend it's range (if it hasn't been flipped over previously.

I would definitely suggest checking this out before doing a rebuild.

Ted
 
You can replace all of the bearings in the drive system for <$100. Well worth the cost and effort. Buy good bearings from a local bearing house or McMaster. Don't buy Ebay or other unknown bearings, I learned the hard way. Less than $20 difference in the price.
 
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There is one oiler recessed in the aluminum housing on top, and a bigger one on the side of the cast iron part.
 
You can replace all of the bearings in the drive system for <$100. Well worth the cost and effort. Buy good bearings from a local bearing house or Mcmaster. Don't buy Ebay or other unknown bearings, I learned the hard way. Less than $20 difference in the price.

I agree. Took the belt off again, And turned the motor and the spindle separately, by hand. Definintely the sound of dry steel balls rolling on dry races. All comes from the aluminum housing. No rattling sound like the videos, but I am going to check that clutch adjustment also.
 
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