Bridgeport M Head - Getting Started

bpmhead

Mike Sawyer
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May 30, 2018
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Found a round ram Bridgeport M-Head for the garage. Base SN# 1898, M-Head SN# M3769. #7B&S Collet. 9x32 Table. I've used a quarter of a gallon of WD-40 thus far removing gunk. Added L510 VFD to convert garage 110 to 220 3phase for the motor to get it fired up. Added E32 collet holder since it seems the #7B&S hard to fine. This IS my first rodeo with a mill, so a few questions thus far:

1) The U shapped flaking is visible on the ways, but also a lot of surface stains. Blue scotch pads and WD40 don't seem to do much, but green scotch pads appears help with the stains but also maybe also removing those U marks. The OCD part of me wants to go to shiney, but maybe better to keep the flaking, stains and all on the ways?

2) Is there an equivalent rebuild guide for M head to the ones I've seen referenced a lot for M head? I picked up the m head rebuild kit from H&S but having found a thread yet where someone does the M head step by step. (answered below, thx!)

3) I presume the wheel in front is for fine quill feed, mine doesn't seem to work. I'm guessing using the knee to move piece up and down more common than fine quill feed? (answered below, thx!)

Been pouring through past threads here and else where, thanks so much for all that content!

1898_M3769.jpg
 
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I have a round ram Bridgeport but has J head on it, I added power X axis and 3 axis dro, and is so nice ice now.enjoy your new tool
 
Google search "Bridgeport M-head Manual PDF" and download it. Its out there for free.

Thank you. I had done similar searches and found some manuals with M head reference, but this turned up one I don't remember seeing before.

Added: ok, found a lot more stuff, so thank you.
 
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Yeah, the "trick" with finding free manuals is to include "PDF" in your search. Every Bridgeport manual I've ever looked for is on the 'net for free.

My first Bridgeport was also an M-head with B&S #7 taper. I made some pretty heavy duty stuff with that head. Eventually I even made a full set of end mill holders for it up to 3/4" ID. Over time I started getting annoyed at having to manually feed the spindle down to bore holes (you have to screw the clutch knob in for the handwheel to engage) and replaced the m-head with a J-head using a home made adapter. I still use that BP nearly every day. Several years ago I picked up a second BP with a variable speed head just so I would be able to leave some accessories mounted to it's table to make setups easier.

Enjoy the mill, the M-head is tough enough to handle anything.
 
See if you can buy a few B&S 7 collets in common tool shank sizes like 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8" and then equip your tooling with straight shanks to fit the collets. It will be better than having a full set of collets, and the tooling will fit other machines as well...
 
See if you can buy a few B&S 7 collets in common tool shank sizes like 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8" and then equip your tooling with straight shanks to fit the collets. It will be better than having a full set of collets, and the tooling will fit other machines as well...

Yes, machine had 3/8 and 1/2, I was able to get a few others. But based on recommendation I saw somewhere, I got the ER32 collet holder in B&S 7, to make the collet changes fast/easy against that for most things. But then tooling yes straight shanks to use with either of those, glad your suggestion reinforces that direction, thanks!
 
... (you have to screw the clutch knob in for the handwheel to engage) ...

Ah, ok, that's what I couldn't figure out. Clutch knob cranked all the way in, its reluctant but eventually engages. Loosened, it's still engages, but will eventually release. So maybe needs some attention. I had to buy a replacement wheel from H&M, there wasn't one with the machine, so I imagine handwheel wasn't used much, at least later in life.
 
I have a bunch of B&S #7 stuff, a set of draw in collets (unused) for end mills, an shell mill arbor and much more; if interested LMK and I can take and post some pics. york@napanet.net
 
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