Bridgeport tooling

ttabbal

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I've read the posts here that come up in the search. What I'm wondering about is more the sizes to look for. I don't plan to work on really large projects anytime soon, but I'm curious about a few things I hope people can share what they are using. I'm also trying to keep a reasonable budget here, just enough to get going with some basic projects. Perhaps if you can recommend vendors etc. that have a good price/performance level? The plan right now is to work with mild steel and aluminum.

What I have...

6" Vise, "KKK" branded, looks a lot like the old Bridgeport vises. I'll probably look for a Kurt or Glacern, but this seems pretty good for now.

Parallels, a little short for this, I bought them for a smaller vise.

R8 collets, need to inventory the sizes, but they cover a decent range. Along with an MT3 adapter, so I can use my lathe drill chuck.

Clamping kit, angle plates, and V-blocks. Indicators.

A little set of 3/8" shank endmills, HSS, import that I got for my lathe milling attachment.

ER40 collets I got for the lathe, Techniks brand.


Thinking of getting...

Fly cutter. Seems useful for squaring up stock. Prices are all over the map though.

Roughing and finish end mills. For starting out, HSS seems like the best option. Recommend a couple sizes you use a lot on smaller projects? Perhaps some brands/vendors to look for? Prices are all over here as well, but it seems like a tool that is worth spending a little more on.

ER40 adapter might be nice for my existing collets. Probably a more long term thing along with a DRO.
 
You are on the right track, in my opinion. A Bridgeport is good with end mills up to at least 3/4" for sure, depending on the material. Roughing end mills are great for removing bulk material and last longer than standard end mills. Stay away from carbide as a beginner, expensive, and easy to break and chip. I only use carbide on materials that really require it. I have a bunch of fly cutters, most of them came to me used and mostly shop made. They all work fine. The fly cutters I use most is a set of 5 from India that cost under $30. They work fine. A fly cutter is a simple tool holder. Success is in the user's hands. Learn the basic rules, and then experiment to see what works best in various materials. They can be used with HSS and with carbide cutting tools. Do not be afraid to spin them at higher speeds, working up to it. Fast speeds and light cuts can leave a very nice finish. Be very careful to use fly cutters safely. They are inherently quite dangerous if something breaks or falls apart from being loose. Think about where the chips will be flying to with your setups!
 
Thanks for the tips Bob! I can certainly see how a fly cutter could be dangerous. That sharp bit flying out would be a lot like leaving the chuck key in the lathe, if you sharpened the chuck key! I need to do some reading on tool profiles for them so I know what to grind.

Other than something like a fly cutter, I don't think I have any current need for even a 3/4" end mill. Though I could see using a 3/4" with a long cutting surface for squaring up the ends of stock in the vise. Just that the larger diameter would be more rigid. But I can always take lighter and slower cuts. It's not like I'm a production shop. Taking 3 passes instead of 1 isn't going to cause me any real issues.
 
Other than something like a fly cutter, I don't think I have any current need for even a 3/4" end mill. Though I could see using a 3/4" with a long cutting surface for squaring up the ends of stock in the vise. Just that the larger diameter would be more rigid. But I can always take lighter and slower cuts. It's not like I'm a production shop. Taking 3 passes instead of 1 isn't going to cause me any real issues.
The larger cutters are indeed much more rigid, and are also less likely to break. They can also achieve a higher surface cutting speed with the same chip load. Smaller cutters at higher RPM require a fairly high cutter feed to produce real chips, and the higher travel speed puts more side loading on the more fragile cutter. Ordinarily, I use about the biggest cutter that will work for the job. Used properly, they stay sharp for a long time, and can then be reground. I have a smaller Millrite mill, not a Bridgeport, but I have used end mills from 1 to 1-1/4" on it for certain jobs with good results. I will often use a 1/2" end mill on small work.
 
I would suggest you buy a decent ER-40 chuck since you already own the collets. It will be the most accurate and flexible way to hold your tooling.

I use the largest diameter end mill I can use for the job at hand, with the shortest flute length that will work. I also suggest you have at roughers in at least 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sizes; fine pitch for profiling work and coarse pitch for pockets and slots. For aluminum, try the High Helix end mills because they work. I use mostly 2 flute for pockets and 3-4 flute for profiling. I agree with HSS or cobalt for most end mills; carbide is good for deep work or long edges where deflection is more of a problem.

Brands: I prefer Niagara Cutter if I can get them. Many others - OSG, Morse, Melin, Brubaker, Regal-Benoit and many others. I don't buy Chinese and I definitely don't buy used end mills. Look for lots on ebay.

Flycutter: I use the Tormach Superfly. If you want to grind a HSS cutter, use a LH square tool and see how it works; bet it will be fine. Brazed carbide LH turning tools will work if you hone them sharp.

At some point, buy a Criterion DBL-202A or B boring head and a set of cobalt boring bars. I assure you this will serve you well over the years.
 
Nice set of tooling you have. I'd invest in a mechanical edge finder and the DRO you mentioned. Also a spindle mount for your indicator for tramming the mill and finding the center of a boss and/or hole.

I have pretty much the gambit of tools for locating work on the mill: Manual edge finder, wiggler, electronic edge finders, Blake co-ax indicator, Indi-cal DTI holder and Interapid DTI, and a couple of laser edge finders (cross hair and dot/circles). I use the electronic edge finder the most which doesn't account for spindle run out, but my mills have >0.002" even with Chinese collets. I have a couple of the 20mm shank ones (10 mm ball) that ran under $15 each. Had to buy a 20mm R8 collet to use it, but it has a nice bright light and a loud tone.

I pretty much leave an ER32 collet chuck on my BP, so use a Bore-ite electronic edge finder on it which is light only and has a 1/2" shank. I recall the Bore-ite being around $40. I really like having the ER collet chuck on the spindle though for 75+ years guys have dealt with turning the draw bar and changing R8 collets. I just prefer being able to do it with a spanner wrench right at vise level. Down side is I am introducing another source of error as my tooling is held in a collet held in a chuck held in the spindle. R8 direct eliminates one stack up of potential error.

I use the Blake with the spring loaded center for finding a pricked hole, but have done it a lot with a wiggler. You can get the wiggler and manual edge finders for around $10 each. The Blake is $100+ off eBay.

My spindle mount for the DTI is from China and it works fine. Probably around $15.

I have both models of the SDA laser center finders (cross hair and point/circle) and am not a huge fan though I do use them on occasion. But they're not worth the investment in my opinion. I got both models for around $225. Could be my technique, but it's a bit of a pain to shut off the shop lights to make it dark enough to see the dialed down laser point. The polarizing filter can be turned to make the laser point/circle bright, but it enlarges them so it's tougher to tell if you're on center.

You mentioned a MT3 to R8 adapter for your lathe drill chuck. You may consider some drill chucks with straight shanks. I have them with 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" shanks. Just being lazy here, but most of my mill work involves using a 3/8" or 1/2" collet. It's nice with my ER32 collet chuck to pop out whatever end mill is there and switch to a drill chuck instead of pulling the collet chuck and dropping in the appropriate R8 collet.
Always more to buy. . .

Bruce
 
As long as we're spending your money, I have a much used set of screw machine drills, 29 pc. 1/16" - 1/2" set. I still use a spotting drill for the most part, but understand some guys will go direct with the stubby drills and stay pretty much on center.

Bruce
 
Great info! Thanks guys! I forgot to mention that I need to get a spindle DTI holder for tramming. I did pick up a nice DTI, a Compac 1 tenths model. That thing is probably more accurate than I am, but at least I know I can get a good measurement from it. And an edge finder, definitely need that.

What do you guys think of the 2 dial indicator holders for tramming? It "seems" like a decent idea, but I don't know enough about tramming yet to know if it is or not. If I go there, I'll likely build one.

I'll keep an eye for some larger cutters. I have the little import set and recently got a set of 5 Niagara 13/32 2 flute for $20, which seemed decent. Weird size, but I'll be working in thous anyway so I don't mind. Though I might have issues holding them in my R8s.

It's sounding like I might want to bump up the ER40 chuck on the list. I do like them on my lathe. And they have a wider clamping range than the R8s. I only briefly looked at them on Shars as that's the site I happened to be on when I thought of it. :) They claim 0.0001 runout, I don't know if I believe it. I did have good luck with their set-tru ER40 though. If you have a good one to recommend, it would be interesting.

Straight shank drill chuck in a collet. I really should have thought of that. Nice trick!

Stubby drills are on the tool list. I recently bought some decent drill bits and the HF set just won't do anymore. It's really nice to have bits that are actually straight!

Face mills I haven't really thought of. How do they compare to fly cutters?
 
flycutter: you can make one better than the imports. not that hard to do

collet blocks, 4 sided, 6 sided. i use mine A LOT

boring head

re: double tram tool: i have one. makes it quicker/easier but it's not hi-priority.
 
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