Bringing home a new to me G0752Z

[WobblyHand]

Made a trip out to Indiana to buy @rabler 's Grizzly 10" x 22 lathe. The G0752Z is the same as a G0602, but it has a VFD, and a DRO. Randall was great, first insisting that I operate the lathe and do some sample operations. It was sufficiently different from a mini-lathe that I had to re-learn what to do. Then it was time for disassembling the lathe to it's lightest configuration. It wasn't necessary in Indiana, but more to help me out in NH when I had to move the lathe without the help of a tractor. A standard pallet just fits in a Subaru Impreza hatchback trunk. Loaded and bolted the lathe to the pallet. As the light was failing, we got the pallet loaded into the hatchback. This was quite an amazing feat as the clearance on both sides of the vehicle to the pallet was about 1/2". I was sweating it a bit, since I had borrowed my wife's vehicle for this adventure. Randall graciously let me stay overnight, and I want to thank him for letting sleep there.

Partially due to the time zone shift, and a bit due to excitement, I woke up at 6am and started figuring out how to restrain the pallet from shifting in the vehicle. Was on my back under the vehicle at 6:30am, as the sun rose, looking for the drain holes in the frame for the ratcheting tie downs. Used all 6 ratcheting tie downs, plus additional strapping to keep the lathe stand from jumping about and moving. Finally, about 9am, I was on my way back home. I got home on Thursday. Friday morning, I was looking at what I brought home. This was after I had removed nearly all the straps.

Here's a car's eye view after the pallet was nearly removed. Had to use the board to lift the lathe a little to prevent a hangup.

Used a come along and a hydraulic table. It worked pretty well, at least until I ran out of mechanic advantage.

I then had to connect the come along to the handle. Not seen are the blocks I used to brace the handle against the table to reduce handle bending. Not proud of it, but it worked. Was kind of scared at this point so, I tied the pallet to the table. Added more tie downs. The tricky bit was the heavy end was cantilevered beyond the edge of the table, so I was worried about stability.

Due to me not thinking, I had managed to back out the pallet into my fencepost. Oops. Not really a problem. After adding more tie downs and checking for clearance, I drove the car forward about 4 feet. Was then able to swing the table away from the fence post hardware. I then lowered the table and proceeded down the pathway. With a little cleaning, my wife's car will be ready to be returned. No damage, which relieves me. So onto the next step - hmm literally, there are steps to deal with. First, let's remove the stand and get it out of the way. Next, I have to remove the screen door and one of the screens.

Found some blocks to put on the steps. As you can see, there's a gap.

Some time passed as I figured out the next step. I ended up lag bolting the 2x4's to the deck into the oak cantilever beams. To pull the pallet off the hydraulic table, I used a come along attached to a 3x3 across the doorway. As you can see it is dark out, because I had to fabricate a couple of pieces to put a hook onto. I bent some steel and machined an elongated hole in the ends using a boring head. Used a 7/16" bolt to pass through the plates. Was kind of a fun break from hauling stuff, to make something.

Got it 70% onto my roofed porch by 6:30pm. Fortunately the heavy end was 100% supported. Around that time a buddy of mine came by and helped me lift the pallet onto a furniture dolly and we got it tucked in 100% under the roof and against the house. He then helped me bring the stand down to the basement, and helped me put things away. (I had emptied 1/2 the tool shed getting out the hydraulic table.)

Not going to lie, I'm a bit sore today. Going to rest a good part of the day. If I'm inspired, I'll move some of the lathe parts out of the kitchen. Figure I've got 1 days grace period on that. I don't want that stuff there either.

Next step is to plan out the move down into the basement. I'll use either block and tackle, or a winch of some sort. Will make some sort of sled for the lathe to ride on. Not sure if a winch can safely lower things. If I was to use block and tackle I need 8 pulleys. I want an 8X advantage, that way the force is only 40 lbs, which I can easily manage myself. Quad pulleys don't seem to be that common.

 

[T Bredehoft]

With 8 pullys you will encounter inner friction enought to prevent movement, either accidentally or on purpose. Try it, but understand the principle, you will have 8 points of resistance bending your rope/cable, etc. you may be able to establish a point where snubbing your rope/cable around a stationary object, (post, pipe, whatever) to allow you to release tension slowly.

I remember rigging a "bosun's chair" with four pullys as a child, I could not lift myself.

 

[WobblyHand]

With 8 pullys you will encounter inner friction enought to prevent movement, either accidentally or on purpose. Try it, but understand the principle, you will have 8 points of resistance bending your rope/cable, etc. you may be able to establish a point where snubbing your rope/cable around a stationary object, (post, pipe, whatever) to allow you to release tension slowly.

I remember rigging a "bosun's chair" with four pullys as a child, I could not lift myself.

I'm a bit worried by the friction loss as well. Thinking of pulleys with bearings, and machining new housings. The cheap block and tackles I see are not confidence inspiring at all. I have some 1x4 A36 that I could machine a pair of pulley housings. Certainly better than the stacked sheet metal block and tackle setups I saw on eBay. No confidence that the assemblies wouldn't twist or bend slightly. If I could find some 3" pulleys with bearings for 3/8" rope, that would work with my more rigid housings, I think.

At the bottom of the stairs, I don't have a good tie off point. Have granite walls there, and the stairs themselves. Guess I could install a cleat or two on the stairs. If cleated, I could go with less mechanical advantage. If I got tired, I could just tie it off to the cleat. I could do it from the top, but if it is a one man job, I'd like to be able to guide the lathe down.

Kind of why I posted about the pulleys - wasn't sure how well 8 wheels would work. Issue is not unsolvable, just haven't found a reasonable way yet. Lathe is in an ok place right now, so I can take my time working out this part.

 

[WobblyHand]

As a side note, these pieces are the remnants of the wheels on the hydraulic table. First somewhat heavy load on the table, and nowhere near the rating of the table. ~450 lbs vs 1500 lb rating. At one point, that table was hard to move. That was the wheel outer layer disintegrating. This is some of what I picked up off the brick walkway this morning. The wheels originally had red polyurethane? covering on them. Not anymore. Now they are just iron. They still roll, but not as well. Cart was stored in a tool shed, out of direct sunlight. Just yet another minor disappointment from Harbor Freight. At least the hydraulic lift worked, so I'm thankful for that.

 

[rabler]

I think going down the steps you reduce the tension somewhat due to the ramp effect of the stairs. Also, in extending a block and tackle, won't the friction play to your advantage to keep the lathe from going down quickly?

 

[WobblyHand]

I think going down the steps you reduce the tension somewhat due to the ramp effect of the stairs. Also, in extending a block and tackle, won't the friction play to your advantage to keep the lathe from going down quickly?

Agreed with your first sentence. For the second, not sure. Sometimes friction is not your friend. Jamming up due to load is not so good.

 

[WobblyHand]

Thinking about buying a box of 10 bearings, something like 6200-2RS which is 10mm ID, 30mm OD and 9mm wide. I can get some ABEC-3 shielded bearings for around $13 for 10. They won't be awesome, but I think they are rated for 500 lbs each. Can someone recommend a place with a decent bearing catalog that I can search? I can machine the pulleys out of aluminum or steel. My piece of 1"x4" A36 could serve as the pulley housings. Probably have to fiddle about with spacers to center the pulleys in the slots, but that shouldn't be hard.

Or I could just buy an electric winch somewhere. The electric winch would be easier to operate, as long as the remote was long enough. Making a big block and tackle would be fun though.

 

[rabler]

Making a big block and tackle would be fun though.

Fortunately you already have a working lathe.

Was good to meet you, glad to host you for the night. Nobody around me that I know is also a hobby machinist so it was fun to talk to someone else with similar interests!

 

[WobblyHand]

Just ordered a display unit from Delta. KPE-LE02. $23.15 including shipping. In case I want to fiddle with things.

Was good to meet you, glad to host you for the night. Nobody around me that I know is also a hobby machinist so it was fun to talk to someone else with similar interests!

Your machines were amazing. Not only really big, but beautiful works of art. You have done a great job so far in your rebuilding.

Thinking about this, I am going to try making the block and tackle.

 

[woodchucker]

those wheels are like all other polyurethane wheels I've had... short lives.. My woodshop has many , many sets that have disentegrated. Calling the original sellers to complain , they tell me they have never heard of that... but one of the vendors sells the wheels separately, so what does that tell ya.

Rather than pay their price I ordered from https://shop.servicecaster.com/ in case you are interested.

I made ramps, I use a HF electric winch to raise and lower. I tried with a hand cranked winch... I'll say that was a big mistake. The electric winch is totally controllable. A cheap solution is the 12V and use a battery.