Bringing home a new to me G0752Z

woodchucker said:
those wheels are like all other polyurethane wheels I've had... short lives.. My woodshop has many , many sets that have disentegrated. Calling the original sellers to complain , they tell me they have never heard of that... but one of the vendors sells the wheels separately, so what does that tell ya.

Rather than pay their price I ordered from https://shop.servicecaster.com/ in case you are interested.

I made ramps, I use a HF electric winch to raise and lower. I tried with a hand cranked winch... I'll say that was a big mistake. The electric winch is totally controllable. A cheap solution is the 12V and use a battery.
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Thanks for the report on the lives of the wheel coverings. I really wasn't that surprised. Yeah, they all plead ignorant. That's because they never use their product. Thanks for the link.

After the disintegrating wheels, I'm hesitant to use an HF electric winch if there are humans in the way, or at the bottom of the stairwell. That human might be me. The stairwell is narrow, so pretty hard to jump out of the way. Zero trust in a hand winch, just because they rarely have big enough cranks to make it easy to control.

My batting average with HF is better than 85%, but just don't trust their equipment with my life, or a buddy's. Block and tackles are easy for me to understand. Yes they can be dangerous, but I understand those risks.
 
WobblyHand said:
Thanks for the report on the lives of the wheel coverings. I really wasn't that surprised. Yeah, they all plead ignorant. That's because they never use their product. Thanks for the link.

After the disintegrating wheels, I'm hesitant to use an HF electric winch if there are humans in the way, or at the bottom of the stairwell. That human might be me. The stairwell is narrow, so pretty hard to jump out of the way. Zero trust in a hand winch, just because they rarely have big enough cranks to make it easy to control.

My batting average with HF is better than 85%, but just don't trust their equipment with my life, or a buddy's. Block and tackles are easy for me to understand. Yes they can be dangerous, but I understand those risks.
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well with the winch you don't get under the equip, you lower it from the top.
I made a ramp down the stairs, and at the top the winch sits... and so do I.
https://imgur.com/a/vOS1Mrd
 
The easy way is to use the electric winch. No argument. I will make something similar for the ramp. Not sure I trust either my life, or my lathe to an HF winch. The landing is 3 feet wide and ends in a granite wall. Somehow I need to make a right angle turn with the lathe with the heavy end resting on the steps. Once I get the light end supported by the stand, I can get help swiveling the heavy end up on the wheeled lathe stand.

Where did you anchor the winch? Isn't it in the way of the object that you are lowering? Was thinking of anchoring the winch or block and tackle on a 6x6 or similar across the doorway, but that blocks the entrance to the stairs. Don't have any experience with this, so floundering about a bit here.
 
So if you look at my setup there. I have 2x4's in an L using a bridle joint. That pushes against the door, and the 2x4 on the floor takes the load, the winch is attached to the 2x4 with structural spax screws.. I could have used lags or other, but the rating is good enough. The middle casting to the surface grinder was about 400lbs and no problems. My lathe is only 350 max.. SB9 probably more like 300 it rode down a piece at a time by hand.
The mill the same.. after that, I said no more... I need to be able to lower it down. carrying down 200lb pieces is asking for an accident. So for the surface grinder, I enjoyed having the winch.

I just built a new vanity for the bathroom, it went up using the winch no problem.. it was way over size, and the only time I have been below the trolley...

I made the ramps to be removeable, but after using them so many times for so many things, I leave them on now. I only have to setup the top to use it.
 
woodchucker said:
So if you look at my setup there. I have 2x4's in an L using a bridle joint. That pushes against the door, and the 2x4 on the floor takes the load, the winch is attached to the 2x4 with structural spax screws.. I could have used lags or other, but the rating is good enough. The middle casting to the surface grinder was about 400lbs and no problems. My lathe is only 350 max.. SB9 probably more like 300 it rode down a piece at a time by hand.
The mill the same.. after that, I said no more... I need to be able to lower it down. carrying down 200lb pieces is asking for an accident. So for the surface grinder, I enjoyed having the winch.

I just built a new vanity for the bathroom, it went up using the winch no problem.. it was way over size, and the only time I have been below the trolley...

I made the ramps to be removeable, but after using them so many times for so many things, I leave them on now. I only have to setup the top to use it.
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I'm missing something. I can't see the top of the stairs in the photo, nor do I see a door. Understand the bridle el joint now that I've looked at the photo a 3rd time! Lathe is around 350 lbs. I don't understand the tipping the lathe over the edge of the stairs part and keeping it under control. Would the lathe slide down until it takes up the slack of the cable? You made a separate sled that the payload was bolted to? Where is the cable attached to on the sled, the front or the back?
 
yea, I use a trolley, like a dolly, it has a big eyebolt and the cable can directly attach to that, or I use a snatch block attached to that, and back up to the winch.. that way I can handle more weight, and/or slow down the winch... The trolley is always under the winches control, even when sending it over the edge. I used 5" wheels which gives me a 6" clearance to make the transition. I am never in free fall mode. If I had the cieling height on the stairs I would have made a much different trolley that was high on the downside and low on the up side to keep the weight more balanced for high cg items. I strap the items to the trolley, usually around trolley. If I did it again, I would use angle iron and V type wheels.. it just makes good sense.
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I have the 602. The carriage and apron come off and go back on fairly easily, as does the tailstock and chuck. This will reduce your weight. significantly.

I have moved all my machines down a stairway to my basement shop using a ramp. What @woodchucker shows will work great. The only thing that I would add would be tie straps to keep the two ramps from sliding apart. When I moved my machines in. I used a come along to pull the machine down the ramp and a second one to restrain it in case of a runaway. I have a second wall in my basement that splits the basement in two and I bridged that with a piece of heavy wall tubing for an anchor. Once on the basement floor, I used a jimmy to walk the machine to its final resting spot. Some pipe rollers will make the job easier.

To lift the lathe onto the stand, I made a skyhook consisting of a length of 1" Allthread bridging two floor joists with a length of 1" pipe over that and two nuts to tighten it all. A short length of chain and a replacement link made the loop for the come along and Nylon strapping at the lathe end.
 
RJSakowski said:
I have the 602. The carriage and apron come off and go back on fairly easily, as does the tailstock and chuck. This will reduce your weight. significantly.

I have moved all my machines down a stairway to my basement shop using a ramp. What @woodchucker shows will work great. The only thing that I would add would be tie straps to keep the two ramps from sliding apart. When I moved my machines in. I used a come along to pull the machine down the ramp and a second one to restrain it in case of a runaway. I have a second wall in my basement that splits the basement in two and I bridged that with a piece of heavy wall tubing for an anchor. Once on the basement floor, I used a jimmy to walk the machine to its final resting spot. Some pipe rollers will make the job easier.

To lift the lathe onto the stand, I made a skyhook consisting of a length of 1" Allthread bridging two floor joists with a length of 1" pipe over that and two nuts to tighten it all. A short length of chain and a replacement link made the loop for the come along and Nylon strapping at the lathe end.
Click to expand...
Great explanation. Where I'm weak, is recognizing good anchor points. Only somewhat ok anchor point above I can determine is the door frame. Below, all I have is the wooden stairs. The wall opposite the landing is made of irregular granite boulder blocks quarried around 1850. Not sure I'd like to put in an anchor there, although it would be useful. You have given me some ideas, and I will look around down in the basement with a different perspective.
 
Your greatest need will be to provide a restraining force to prevent a slideaway. I used a come along and would give it a couple of inches of free play and a modest push would slide the lathe down until the come along restrained it again. It was slow going but uneventful. With two people working it , it would have been fairly efficient.
 
RJSakowski said:
What @woodchucker shows will work great. The only thing that I would add would be tie straps to keep the two ramps from sliding apart.
Click to expand...
I used to use a rail at the top and bottom to keep them together, then I redid that and added these, they prevent the separation and allow me to keep it on the stairs full time without interfering with walking up and down. My side rails are keyed so they stay together. BTW I re-enforced my stair case before I did this, years before, because I always felt the stairs giving in the middle as I walked up and down. When you realize the stairs are precariously held against the next floor only, it's a good idea. I used 2x4's and ply gussets to keep them in place... works great.. nice and stiff.

These blocks are in multiple locations up the ramp. Also additional blocks that don't go to wall are installed for added slide support.
That joint for the ramp slideway is a half lap joint to support the joint, and there is a block under it.
Also all blocks have drawer liner attached at the bottom to prevent slipping, not really necessary, but a good idea.
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