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  • June Project of the Month (Click "x" at right to dismiss)
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Broken headstock bushing mount on a 03701.

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Stefen

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#1
Hello,

As you can see from the title the headstock has broken around the bushing mount. I was in the process of changing the bushings and if I ever find one the thrust bearing; ( if you know of any crossovers I'm all ears) while the tension piece said goodbye. I even used dry ice to shrink the brass.

My main question is it possible to replace the headstock cast from a newer year? The bed on this unit is the 30". My next question is would you weld it?

I mainly use it for small jobs related to my farm equipment and antique tractor parts. I really don't want to part it out as my grandfather bought this thing brand new back in the late 40s.

Thanks in advance,

Stefen 20180705_173643.jpg 20180705_173634.jpg 20180705_173647.jpg
 

markba633csi

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#2
There are several options: Repair it with epoxy or braze it, or find another headstock of the same type.
I'm not sure if the roller bearing headstock is a bolt-on replacement as far as the gearing on the left side, but it should fit, the spindle thread is different however- you'd have to change your chucks and tooling
mark
 

westsailpat

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#4
Hey Robert , my ebay find is a mica under cut head (07300 with integral counter shaft) will it work for Stefen ?
 

Latinrascalrg1

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#5
Is there enough Material there so you could cross drill through the crack sidways through the thickness of the"bushing mount" material? ( I think thats what it was referred to above). Press in a few pins and mushroom the ends for a nice tight joinery and then add something like JB weld to back up the cross pins you should end up with a pretty strong repair without welding.
 

Stefen

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#6
Is there enough Material there so you could cross drill through the crack sideways through the thickness of the"bushing mount" material? ( I think that's what it was referred to above). Press in a few pins and mushroom the ends for a nice tight joinery and then add something like JB weld to back up the cross pins you should end up with a pretty strong repair without welding.
It would be close as for material, but that's a good idea.
 

Lordbeezer

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#9
Looks like you have enough metal to pin..job weld the break.thin coat ..clamp til set up..then drill and pin like stated above
 

markba633csi

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#11
I didn't realize they made one without backgear-totally missed that
 

wa5cab

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#13
Mark, besides the 101.07300 having no back gears (and no place to attach them), it has a smaller spindle with 3/4"-16 threads.

Stefan,

Most of the parts on the 101.07301 and the 618 or 101.21400 are the same. But you cannot use the sleeve bearing spindle in the timken bearing headstock. The sleeve bearing headstock is longer so you may have to drill new mounting holes. All that I know about the bed is that it has a different part number. It may be just a little longer but that only matters to the lead screw and rack. The three gears and pulley are the same, as is the end float adjusting collar. The spacer is different and of course the 618 does not have a separate thrust bearing. However, there have been two or three 07301's converted that I've heard of.. So Just set the Timken headstock on the bed and slide it left or right a littke to align the gear train with the screw gear. You may have to drill four new mounting holes. And you may have to move the countershaft to the left slightly to line up the spindle belt.

The 618 countershaft is different but the one on the 07301 happens to be the second version 618 one. I would suspect that you will have to move the countershaft slightly.
The
 
Last edited:

Latinrascalrg1

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#14
Taking another look at it.......If you are not that comfortable with my first suggestion there is another option similar but would not be nearly as good looking of a repair..

You could drill and tap/rivet a few places on each side of the break where the thicker metal is located and then do a "Bridge" type repair where you screw/rivet down a few pieces of maybe some spring steel banding so that you have enough movement in the bushing to remount the gears while also allowing you to drill holes completely away from the bushing race or other more delicate areas of the headstock casting. You will also be able to drill 90° perpendicular into the casting in areas where it wouldnt be affected by adding a few small holes. As i said it won't be pretty but it will hold strong without the need to weld and you could still add in the epoxy support "glue" to back up the bands.
 

wa5cab

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#15
Unfortunately, the odds against having low runout on the spindle nose after the repair are significant. In my opinion, repair is not a viable option in this case.
 

Stefen

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#16
Unfortunately, the odds against having low runout on the spindle nose after the repair are significant. In my opinion, repair is not a viable option in this case.
I was worried about this as well. I have a new Head Cast on bid right now. $25 hopefully it pulls through. I'm going to repair this one regardless as it's a good learning experience. I decided to Silver Braze it. I'll cut a V- notch on it and pin it along with the silver. I'll have a friend clean the bearing hole up with his lathe to help cit back on the runout. It will be a fun experience never the less.
 

Stefen

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#17
Something else for you all to consider for parts is 3-D printing. I talked to a local machine shop and they scan the part and reprint it. Surprisingly, it's not that expensive. Depending on what materials you want it made in decides the cost. I was a little skeptical, but he showed me a gear they printed and are running in one of their larger lathes. I know some of you might say what's a machine shop doing 3-D printing, but times are changing. They have been in the machining business since 1967.
 
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