Brown and Sharpe #10 to ER-40 Adapter Project

cathead

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Today I got started on the BS-10 to ER-40 adapter for the Gorton 9J. It's pretty straight forward.
I started with a piece of Stress Proof shafting and machined off about 5.5 inches to a diameter of
1.3 inches or so(cylindrical). Then it was flipped in the lathe chuck and work on the collet end began.
I drilled in 2 inches up to an inch and bored out till I reached the minimum diameter of the collet.
Then I set the compound to 8 degrees and continued boring until I had a reasonable fit for the collet.
Then I single pointed some 18tpi threads. This evening I will likely finish up and make a nut to
fit the threads, After that the narrow part of the shaft will be machined to fit the Brown and Sharpe taper
and a 5/8 x 11 thread added for the draw bar.

Here's a few photos of the progress:



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The order of operations is important and the last thing to do will be to machine the BS#10
taper, otherwise I would not be able to hold a tapered shaft and machine the ER-40 end.
So far it looks like forward progress.
 
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Nice job, cathead! Were you able to keep run out under control?
 
Nice job, cathead! Were you able to keep run out under control?

Thanks for asking. I just put a dial on it and it does have a few thousandths of run out so that will be my next effort to figure
out where the problem lies and see if it can be remedied. I have more material so could make another if I have to.
 
Thanks for asking. I just put a dial on it and it does have a few thousandths of run out so that will be my next effort to figure
out where the problem lies and see if it can be remedied. I have more material so could make another if I have to.

Your project caught my eye because it was about making tools, which I enjoy, but on top of that it extends the capabilities of the machine - very cool!

I really like 1144 stressproof and would have chosen it for the project, too. It is "free machining" due to the sulfur in it but it can be some finicky stuff when doing precision turning.

I'm going to guess that the run out is coming from the BS taper part. I would carefully zero the head in your 4JC and check the concentricity of the taper.
 
Your project caught my eye because it was about making tools, which I enjoy, but on top of that it extends the capabilities of the machine - very cool!

I really like 1144 stressproof and would have chosen it for the project, too. It is "free machining" due to the sulfur in it but it can be some finicky stuff when doing precision turning.

I'm going to guess that the run out is coming from the BS taper part. I would carefully zero the head in your 4JC and check the concentricity of the taper.


I chucked up a 1.125 inch piece of 1144 carefully in the lathe and installed the collet adapter and the run out is greatest at the
end of the taper. Maybe if I make another one and do the final machining with the collet holding the stressproof rod in the lathe
I would have a more accurate holder. At least that makes the most sense to me at this point. Another possibility would be to
cuf off the tapered end and make a new taper and thread it to the existing cut off holder.
 
Did you use a live center when you turned the taper? If not, then you might want to do that if you make another taper. 1144 needs to be held rigidly.

If you're using carbide tooling to make this then there is a very good chance that the tool is deflecting when taking finishing cuts unless you are finishing with at least 1/2 or more of the nose radius. Tangential forces climb when taking smaller cuts, and this is especially true if the insert has a chip breaker on it. One issue with 1144 is that it work hardens so I normally cut it at low speeds with a HSS tool to rough and then at high speeds for light finishing cuts. This usually avoids the work hardening issues and allows me to take very tiny finishing passes to come in on size.

If I were doing this project, I would turn the outside of the work piece to a nice finish, then make the chuck part like you did. Then I would take great pains to zero the work in the 4JC and then center drill it for a live center and then I would use a sharp HSS tool to cut the taper. I would not rely on a rod held in the ER collet to give you an accurate reference; too much potential for movement. Just my thoughts.
 
Yes, I used a live center when turning the taper. Also I used carbide(no chip breaker) with a relatively small radius. All set ups were indicated
to a few tenths. It takes about a half wheelbarrow of chips to make the parts. I'm going to think on this for a while and
then give it another try later.:sherlock: I may cut off the taper and thread a hole and try a two piece part as that would be pretty easy to
do as an experiment. I don't think the problem is deflection. Also, I will have to take a closer look at the tail stock as that would
affect the outcome too. First, I need to clean out the chip pan! :eek: :)
 
You never know; a two-piece thing might just work. Good luck with this, cathead.
 
You never know; a two-piece thing might just work. Good luck with this, cathead.


I did the two piece thing and it is better than before. Also, the angle in the nut was not right causing the collet to
be a little erratic. The last test was down to a couple thousandths so I think if I fine tune the inside if the holder,
it might be OK, hoping so anyway.
 
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