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Brown and Sharpe Vintage 10” Rotary Head

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Janderso

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#1
Anyone have any idea how to unlock the cam to allow the rotary head to be separated from the base?
I can’t find anything on YouTube or google. I purchased a strap wrench for safe leverage.
It’s in pretty good shape.
Yes it’s the same guy, I posted on the Questions section but had little response.
I want to take it apart to degrease then de rust.
Thanks
 

Dabbler

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#2
I'd like to help, but I'm not sure... Can you post a photo or 2?
 

Janderso

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#3
You bet. Thanks,
The table has had a good 24 hour soak with a good penetrating oil. Hopefully that will help with the strap wrench.
 

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Dabbler

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#4
I thought you were talking about a Rotary Table! Mine is a Chinese Vertex, and it got quite complicated to take apart (It didn't disassemble the way Stephan Gotteswinter's did). Since there are various ways these go together, I'd check for the key-way on the input shaft. Mine was stuck and prevented me from removing the worm gear. Once freed, I could remove a thick washer that allowed me to pull the shaft. It didn't make sense until the whole thing was apart.

Once the worm gear shaft is out, check on the bottom for a retaining bolt (I assume you already have)

Is it seized, or can the top turn?
 

Janderso

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#5
The top turn smooth as glass with the handle. That's the problem, I think it will just lift off if I can get the pinion/worm gear to cam out of the way. The table has a gap when I put it on it's side and I can feel the worm engaging the rotary rack. I'll spend some time on it tonight.
"I thought you were talking about a rotary table"? Isn't this a rotary table?
I watched Basementshopguy (youtube) take apart a Bridgeport Rotary table-whoa these things can be complex.
 

Dabbler

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#6
I was just a little confused when I read your initial post. My problem entirely ("Rotary Table" vs "rotary head")...

I had to take the entire shaft out of mine before I could remove the top. Just my experience. My friend has a 14" SOWA table we took apart some years ago, and we had to remove the worm gear there also.

I hope it goes well! Nice to know it is a tight fit on the centre spindle!
 

Janderso

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#7
Got it!
The strap wrench easily moved the cam, the table came off. I have it soaking in the citrus degreaser overnight. Tomorrow I will put it in Evaporust.
Pic below.
I must say, the smell that came out of this thing would curl an onion.
 

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Janderso

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#8
Do I put oil in this? When it goes back together?
 

bodaver32

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#9
I have the very same table. Heavy well-built tool. In your first pic, there is a threaded hole with the screw removed and laying on the table, the oil is added through this hole. I believe it is engraved, "Oil here".
 

Janderso

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#10
I have the very same table. Heavy well-built tool. In your first pic, there is a threaded hole with the screw removed and laying on the table, the oil is added through this hole. I believe it is engraved, "Oil here".
Yes it does. I have two of these screw holes, one in the center and one on the outer edge.
Do you have oil in the center (30wt?) or do you grease it and forget it?
The oil would leak out but I know many of these used a gear oil or heavy machine oil. I haven't taken the pinion gear and shaft out, I wanted to de-gunk it first. I think I will wire brush the table top then stone it. There is laytex paint spots, i'll get them out, I know acetone will eat paint.
Thanks
 

Dabbler

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#11
For some good advice, have a look at Stefan Gotteswinter's youtube channel: His Vertex rebuild is well worth it!
his playlist is at:

I think he had or created an oil hole to oil the central pivot. My vertex is greased, but I only use it once a year, so grease is fine for that.
 

Janderso

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#12
The Rotary Table is cleaning up nice. The cam or centric is soaking right now, I don't know why it is stiff every other bearing surface is perfect. If I could figure out how to remove it I would and I will come hell or high water.
Pics- Degreaser then Evaporust overnight. Amazing stuff.
 

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Janderso

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#13
I would like to match the dark machine gray. Any ideas? I could always take it in to Sherwin Williams and ask them to do their computer match.
 

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#14
I have found some off-the-shelf metal clad paints are similar. But I don't mind a modest change in in tone. I'd check what is locally available.
 
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