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Building a Shop
- Thread starter ddickey
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,508
I came in about 25% over budget on mine (2019-2020).
That's not an option as I'm building a home on the site. New homes are barely more than existing homes up here. plus I get 3 acres now and all new appliances and whatnot.
I was originally thinking about building a shouse and at that time the builder said for teh shop portion it would be around $30-$40 sqft. I can live with that.
I was originally thinking about building a shouse and at that time the builder said for teh shop portion it would be around $30-$40 sqft. I can live with that.
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2016
- Messages
- 3,261
Ddickey.....
I built a new house and new shop last year. I was the General Contractor for all of it, which was way more work than I originally anticipated.
My shop is 36x36. 4" floating slab on a very nice sand base (lift). 16" wide haunches that go down to 12" at the perimeter. Concrete cost was $7452 which is $5.75/ft. The guy that did my concrete work bought my old house so he gave me a deal. Figure $7/sq ft.
Studs $900. Roof Sheathing $382. Wall Sheathing $550. Shingles $1914. Trusses $2300. Siding, which was LP SmartSide was $4750. Overhead door $1300 (10x10 I think). Windows (6 of them from Menards) $1962. Foam for the floor $1100. $800 for steel for the ceiling. Labor to frame and roof it was $6000 if I remember correctly.
What don't I have in there... insulation for walls and ceiling, which we did ourselves. Wiring, again we did it ourselves. I did 5/8" sanded plywood finished with 2 coats of lacquer for the walls. That way I can hang cabinets and what not anywhere I want without finding a stud. You can occasionally find BCX plywood at menards in their outdoor yard that is sanded. That is what happened to me and I just bought the whole skid and returned what I did not use. It was $15 per sheet. A little more expensive than sheetrock but also much more useful. I have about 40" or so of galvanized wainscoting on the lower portion of the interior walls.
I did put hyrdronic heat in the floor. If you are building a new shop, do it. At least put the tubes in. They are not that hard to do but you MUST put down foam below the concrete (it is actually code). I put the tubes in but have not hooked up a heat source yet. Since I have 22 acres here of all woods, I needed something quick so threw in a wood stove last fall. I do woodworking too so need a place to put mymistakes scraps.
Others have mentioned about freezing up in the winter. That is nonsense. Just like your car, a mixture of water and a special anti-freeze is used in hydronic systems. You want that anyhow for some lubricity for the pumps. Never heard of running straight water. This is my second house with in floor heat and I would never build up here and not put it in. I would use a specific boiler for it. I do know that some guys use tank type water heaters, etc but they are not really made for that. I have been considering a Noritz for my shop. I have a Navien combi unit in my current house but those are expensive.
So, I have somewhere in the ballpark of +$30k in my shop but completely finished the interior, wired it and sided it myself.
I built a new house and new shop last year. I was the General Contractor for all of it, which was way more work than I originally anticipated.
My shop is 36x36. 4" floating slab on a very nice sand base (lift). 16" wide haunches that go down to 12" at the perimeter. Concrete cost was $7452 which is $5.75/ft. The guy that did my concrete work bought my old house so he gave me a deal. Figure $7/sq ft.
Studs $900. Roof Sheathing $382. Wall Sheathing $550. Shingles $1914. Trusses $2300. Siding, which was LP SmartSide was $4750. Overhead door $1300 (10x10 I think). Windows (6 of them from Menards) $1962. Foam for the floor $1100. $800 for steel for the ceiling. Labor to frame and roof it was $6000 if I remember correctly.
What don't I have in there... insulation for walls and ceiling, which we did ourselves. Wiring, again we did it ourselves. I did 5/8" sanded plywood finished with 2 coats of lacquer for the walls. That way I can hang cabinets and what not anywhere I want without finding a stud. You can occasionally find BCX plywood at menards in their outdoor yard that is sanded. That is what happened to me and I just bought the whole skid and returned what I did not use. It was $15 per sheet. A little more expensive than sheetrock but also much more useful. I have about 40" or so of galvanized wainscoting on the lower portion of the interior walls.
I did put hyrdronic heat in the floor. If you are building a new shop, do it. At least put the tubes in. They are not that hard to do but you MUST put down foam below the concrete (it is actually code). I put the tubes in but have not hooked up a heat source yet. Since I have 22 acres here of all woods, I needed something quick so threw in a wood stove last fall. I do woodworking too so need a place to put my
Others have mentioned about freezing up in the winter. That is nonsense. Just like your car, a mixture of water and a special anti-freeze is used in hydronic systems. You want that anyhow for some lubricity for the pumps. Never heard of running straight water. This is my second house with in floor heat and I would never build up here and not put it in. I would use a specific boiler for it. I do know that some guys use tank type water heaters, etc but they are not really made for that. I have been considering a Noritz for my shop. I have a Navien combi unit in my current house but those are expensive.
So, I have somewhere in the ballpark of +$30k in my shop but completely finished the interior, wired it and sided it myself.
I stopped counting the dollars and just want it done. It's incredible how the money just flows away. lol
I probably would not use the same guy if I ever build another shop. He did a good job but some of the things he did is not how I would've done it. For example he ran the ceiling tin from side to side rather than back to front. So I got a $1000 bill for 40 x 96" 2 x 4's so he could brace between the truss' then he could screw in the tin. All the other builds I see on the tube go from back to front, 8' on center. W/a 16' long piece you screw in ends and the middle. The outside tin is screwed onto the posts. Most builds I see have wall girts that the tin screws into. That way you have an area to put insulation behind the post. Insulation starts tomorrow then hopefully concrete by Friday.
Got my gas line in and final inspection on that is this week as well as the drain to the septic tank. Electrical a little later.
I abandoned my idea to put a feed through load center on the outside of the house to feed the house and shop panel. Drilled a hole in the wall today and am just going to feed the shop off of my main panel in the house.
I probably would not use the same guy if I ever build another shop. He did a good job but some of the things he did is not how I would've done it. For example he ran the ceiling tin from side to side rather than back to front. So I got a $1000 bill for 40 x 96" 2 x 4's so he could brace between the truss' then he could screw in the tin. All the other builds I see on the tube go from back to front, 8' on center. W/a 16' long piece you screw in ends and the middle. The outside tin is screwed onto the posts. Most builds I see have wall girts that the tin screws into. That way you have an area to put insulation behind the post. Insulation starts tomorrow then hopefully concrete by Friday.
Got my gas line in and final inspection on that is this week as well as the drain to the septic tank. Electrical a little later.
I abandoned my idea to put a feed through load center on the outside of the house to feed the house and shop panel. Drilled a hole in the wall today and am just going to feed the shop off of my main panel in the house.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2015
- Messages
- 4,762
I can relate.
Just starting out on this path. Took quite some time to nail down size/cost etc. and unfortunately only then asked when they could build. Turns out not till April. Frustrating, but may ultimately be for the best. Not the best idea to do a concrete pour in winter, though if they started now or in the next few weeks it would still be warm enough. Will let you guys know how it goes.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,508
No doubt that money's got to be thrown around more and faster these days. The first $90k was easy; gave it to the outfit that did the building, and that was what I got. The next $40k is what hurt, it was the anticipated and unanticipated tally of stuff that was necessary to finish the job. I'm still not done making trips to the hardware store for this or that detail to get "done".
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2020
- Messages
- 794
My 26x40 foot shop is made with a 4" fiber concrete floor which was put in when we built in 1993. It's been fine but my most heavy machines are my Bridgeport series 1 and a 15x60 gear head lathe (light one at about 3k pounds). While I don't "need" it, I wish I had a sub foundation for the lathe. I would not have anticipated the size not the location for the lathe those many years back...