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Building a table for a lathe
- Thread starter HMF
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2010
- Messages
- 871
Like anything else, mass is key.
Wood is the least choice. I currently have a 4-ft SB on a wooden bench, but I'm looking for a slab of steel to put between bench and lathe. 1/2x12"x 40 should do it.
My favorite lathe bench came with a cobbled Atlas 10". It's a 4-ft piece of heavy 16" C-channel, on a base of 3" heavy-wall square tubing.
The Atlas is gone, I kept the bench.
I'll be building one of concrete soon. In fact, if the above-mentioned chunk of 1/2 steel doesn't turn up soon, I'll pour a slab on top of that wood.
Wood is the least choice. I currently have a 4-ft SB on a wooden bench, but I'm looking for a slab of steel to put between bench and lathe. 1/2x12"x 40 should do it.
My favorite lathe bench came with a cobbled Atlas 10". It's a 4-ft piece of heavy 16" C-channel, on a base of 3" heavy-wall square tubing.
The Atlas is gone, I kept the bench.
I'll be building one of concrete soon. In fact, if the above-mentioned chunk of 1/2 steel doesn't turn up soon, I'll pour a slab on top of that wood.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2011
- Messages
- 430
Its probably a given that metal is better for a lathe stand, especially when getting into around a 10' and larger - but... you do what you can with whatcha got!
I built this stand about 4 yrs ago for delivery of my new Birmingham 12x36, it was derived from some unknown apparatus won by my friend at an Air Force base auction - stainless steel tanks, loads of wiring/electrics, probably cost us taxpayers a gazillion dollars. Any way, after my buddy stripped the stainless and most of the electrics off, he gave me the frame. After doing some cutting/trimming/shortening, etc, I ended up with this, except for adding 3 pieces of 2x2x3/8" angle welded in to fit the lathes mounting bolts.
I added a piece of 3/4" plywood on top to make a table top area - it doesnt perform any support function - got the lathe mounted, painted it and moved it into its new spot
Built the cabinet/drawer modules - the far left is for short specific cut-offs, brass aluminum, cast iron, etc, the middle is for chucks, etc, and the drawers speak for themselves...
This is it today with my South Bend and with many more 'extras' gathered around for convience
I built this stand about 4 yrs ago for delivery of my new Birmingham 12x36, it was derived from some unknown apparatus won by my friend at an Air Force base auction - stainless steel tanks, loads of wiring/electrics, probably cost us taxpayers a gazillion dollars. Any way, after my buddy stripped the stainless and most of the electrics off, he gave me the frame. After doing some cutting/trimming/shortening, etc, I ended up with this, except for adding 3 pieces of 2x2x3/8" angle welded in to fit the lathes mounting bolts.
I added a piece of 3/4" plywood on top to make a table top area - it doesnt perform any support function - got the lathe mounted, painted it and moved it into its new spot
Built the cabinet/drawer modules - the far left is for short specific cut-offs, brass aluminum, cast iron, etc, the middle is for chucks, etc, and the drawers speak for themselves...
This is it today with my South Bend and with many more 'extras' gathered around for convience
When I built my lathe bench I mounted the lathe close to the front edge, with the carriage handwheel sticking past the front edge. I did it so I wouldn't have to bend forward when measuring diameters, etc. since my back doesn't appreciate that sort of thing any more. It worked out well. Re-leveling the lathe is on my to-do list; I plan to mount the lathe all the way to the front edge while I'm doing it.
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2012
- Messages
- 5,596
Hi Nelson... You might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/10957-YALB-(Yet-Another-Lathe-Bench)
Yes, I'm working from a plan which simply is: Make a solid, heavy bench that doesn't budge. If you've ever used a BIG lathe, it's like the difference between a 747 and a single-prop island hopper -and I'm pretty well convinced that a solid bench goes a long way toward that 747 feel. I've got a PM 1236 lathe that weighs a hair over 1000 lbs and it stands to reason it needs to be sitting on a bench that weighs about 1/3 (or more) the weight of the machine. I'm still working on the bench and so far, it's weight is about 300 lbs. When I put shelves and load them up, that will add another 500 lbs or so. -Nothing satisfies like beef!
Ray
Yes, I'm working from a plan which simply is: Make a solid, heavy bench that doesn't budge. If you've ever used a BIG lathe, it's like the difference between a 747 and a single-prop island hopper -and I'm pretty well convinced that a solid bench goes a long way toward that 747 feel. I've got a PM 1236 lathe that weighs a hair over 1000 lbs and it stands to reason it needs to be sitting on a bench that weighs about 1/3 (or more) the weight of the machine. I'm still working on the bench and so far, it's weight is about 300 lbs. When I put shelves and load them up, that will add another 500 lbs or so. -Nothing satisfies like beef!
Ray
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2012
- Messages
- 3,063
I scored a sheet of 3/16 steel that was 2'x5'. I bought a fire wood rack that was 2"x2"x1/4" and choped it up for the legs. I used 2 pieces of 1.5"x2"x1/4" tubing to make stechers that run from front to back legs on each side. Then for support and ridgidness I welded a piece of 4" channel iorn to the leg "hoops". The lathe is bolted to the chanel iorn and the top, now since I have the lathe in its finall resting spot I will level it and bolt it to the floor via some 1/4" feet/tabs. I am in the process of mounting some steel drawers from a tool box with a craterd case (the drawers survived) if the table, after being bolted to the floor, and loaded with tools still feels to light, I will drill each of the 6 leg tops and fill them with brick mortar.
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2012
- Messages
- 77
I compromised between wood and metal. Built a wooden bench, but "floated" a piece of 10" C-channel on it, for bolting the lathe down.
Theory is that the C-channel is hefty and non-moving enough to serve as a rigid base, but the wooden bench was easier for me (at the time, at least)
to knock together with drawers for storage, and might even have some vibration-dampening ability.
- John
Theory is that the C-channel is hefty and non-moving enough to serve as a rigid base, but the wooden bench was easier for me (at the time, at least)
to knock together with drawers for storage, and might even have some vibration-dampening ability.
- John
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2013
- Messages
- 185
My "bench" was made with 4 X 6 legs with 3/4" plywood panels on three sides and the bottom. The front is open for storage. There is no top. 1 1/2" angle iron was bolted across the legs and the lathe is bolted to the angle iron.
Bill
Bill