Buying a new lathe

[darkzero]

Congrats Gary. Looking good!

The balls are cool but now you need one for the QCTP, the tailstock lever, & all the gearbox handles!

I never checked the taper on my chuck backplates but on my 3 jaw chuck that came with the lathe it does not release easily like all my other D1-4 stuff so I assume it's off. I have to tap it with a mallet lightly to break it loose after releasing the cam locks. My other chucks fall right off the taper when I release the cam locks & they repeat pretty much dead nuts when I put them back on.

If you get unsatisfactory run out, try switching pin holes. I got .002", then switched pins, just under .002" , then finally on the last try I got just barely over .001". Normally that's good enough but I'm spolied with Set-Tru checks so I removed the 3 jaw from the back plate. Faced the front, then I turned down the boss slightly. This allows me to adjust the run out tapping with a mallet & indicating off a Thomson Linear Shaft. I can get it down to .0003" often pretty quickly. However if you have a hard bump or crash it can easily knock the chuck out of alignment but I never have issues like I did using this method on my mini-lathe.

The stock 3 jaw I kept but I only use it for holding small diameters that my 6-jaw can't hold & for sanding/polishing. It's my "beater" chuck. I use a Bison 6.25" 6-Jaw set-Tru most of the time. The Bison backplate is blanchard ground like the chuck so it was a bolt on affair, adjust to just under .0002" & call it a day. It also goes back on with the same TIR as long as you put it back with the same pin configuration. All my D1-4 stuff is marked so they go back on the same way everytime. I also got rid of the stock 4-jaw as I was not happy with the quality. I replaced it with a Fuerda 8" 4-jaw which I'm happy with for the price.

My tailstock is only .001" high but side to side alignment was pretty off so be sure to take some time checking that. The taper in my tailstock ram was not bad but it was not that great when checking with a taper & layout fluid. Reamed it with a roughing reamer followed by a finishing reamer & now it seat very nicely without having to really hammer on it like before. I put caps on the pins on the tailstock that the levers rest on. Something about them when they clank drives my nuts. The cushion makes me much more sane now.

On the thread dial, the gear that rides along the leadscew is not keyed. Mine eventually came loose after quite a few threading jobs so you might want to check it before finding out in the middle of a threading job. I Since it's not keyed, you can fine tune it to line up with the arrow more accurately if it's currently not lining up.

Also check the spindle brake assy. Mine worked fine just bolting it together. Then one day when I really had to stomp on it, I found that the micro switch lever was not aligned as good as it should be. Stepping on the brake cuts power first, then engages the drum brake as you press down further. Letting go of the brake restores power to spindle after a reset. However when I stomp on it hard & fast, the micro switch
does not fully release & I had to cycle the brake up & down a could of times to get it to release. A quick adjustment to the roller & bracket was all that was needed. Yours may work fine as mine did initially but I don't like to find things out like this in the middle of a project as I tend to stop working & fix it right then & there.

I didn't add weight to the right base intentially at first but I have filled it it up with "misc junk" to help add weight. I like the idea of adding 100lbs of weight in there though. Good idea!

If you have an optical or laser tachometer handy, it's useful to check the feed rates. My feed & threading chart is different from yours (& most others) I have seen (values are different). Essentially it's the same with only minor variances. But on my chart A1 is listed to be the slowest feed rate when set up for imperial. Using my tachometer I found that I can actually get 6 other feed rates slower than what my chart says (very little differences from each other though) & D1 actually gives me the slowest feed rate. My chart does not list any D configurations other than D4. It's aslo handy to give you an idea of what your actual spindle speeds are.

Here are the speeds that I measured.

Spindle LOW - Actual	Projected
RPM	1	2	3	1	2	3
A	283	1398	850	235	1200	700
B	78	389	235	65	330	200
C	218	1075	656	180	910	500

 

[Ray C]

Will,

Thumbs up on the speed chart. I've been using this model of lathe for several months and that never entered my mind. I have a tach and will compare notes and report later just for the sake of it.

Also, those are the sexiest chucks I've ever seen. I gotta think of a reason to get a 6 jaw LOL...

The stock bench is OK but one of these days, I might beef it up just a bit. Also thinking of chopping a hole in the right pedestal to make a door -of course, will reinforce as needed. Tired of crawling on my hands/knees to get to the backside opening on rare occasions. I leave the coolant tank outside the unit and don't use coolant for the most part.

FWIW, some of the backplates I had were really misfit. The plate taper holes were cut small and there was a 1/16" gap between the faces. Chuck wouldn't re-mount worth a darn within a mile.

How do you like those "corrugated" belts, is that working OK for you? Seems like a good idea. What's the advantage?

BTW: Mine does not have a brake drum. The foot pedal just trips a switch -nothing more than that. It looks like you have the safety shield so maybe the brake drum comes as part of that option. Where/how did they attach the brake pads? The pedal switch needed adjustment on mine -done with a set screw in the assemble inside the left pedestal.

Ray

 

[tripletap3]

Re: Buying new lathe

Guys,
the D1 lugs needed a good bit of fine-tuning and hand fitting.

WARNING: when you mount those new chucks, they might be pretty out of balance (mine were) so work your speeds up slowly.

Ray

This is my first lathe with a camlock mount and this is exactly what I have found so far. My 4 jaw and backing plate came separate on the pallet. The backing plate was machined to fit a 4 jaw chuck at the factory but it just wasn't my chuck because the box had never been opened. I mounted it and put on the machine and it looks like a one blade ceiling fan flying around. I figured it might. Like you said the lathe is very nice but the chucks, the D1 lugs and cams leave allot to be desired. The lugs in my backing plate won't even line up with the holes in my spindle.

 

[Ray C]

Re: Buying new lathe

Well, having mounted and static balanced a whole bunch of chucks for myself and others, I've worked-up a procedure that seems to work. I have another chuck to mount in the upcoming days so, I'll photograph the ordeal and you can choose for yourself to adopt some or all of the ideas. It takes a couple hours because you really need to get it right the first time.

But in general, I think this lathe is the best thing going in it's class... And Matt is a good guy -albeit difficult to reach sometimes but for good reason. He's a hard working and busy guy and I respect that.


Ray

This is my first lathe with a camlock mount and this is exactly what I have found so far. My 4 jaw and backing plate came separate on the pallet. The backing plate was machined to fit a 4 jaw chuck at the factory but it just wasn't my chuck because the box had never been opened. I mounted it and put on the machine and it looks like a one blade ceiling fan flying around. I figured it might. Like you said the lathe is very nice but the chucks, the D1 lugs and cams leave allot to be desired. The lugs in my backing plate won't even line up with the holes in my spindle.

 

[tripletap3]

My tailstock was way out too. It was quite a bit high and right. The taper adjustment screws were stuck (full of filler and sand) so I took it apart and cleaned the machined surfaces. My windage is now dead on and my elevation looks be about .001-2 high. I will have to wait for my stuff to come in so I can get turning and find out.


I do have a question about the thread dial. Like darkzero was saying the numbers and lines on the dial are not lined up with the arrow. If I start pressure on the half nut lever right on top of the line/number it doesn't lock in until slightly after the line/number. Actually I like it this way but will it throw off my threading?

 

[Ray C]

My tailstock was way out too. It was quite a bit high and right. The taper adjustment screws were stuck (full of filler and sand) so I took it apart and cleaned the machined surfaces. My windage is now dead on and my elevation looks be about .001-2 high. I will have to wait for my stuff to come in so I can get turning and find out.


I do have a question about the thread dial. Like darkzero was saying the numbers and lines on the dial are not lined up with the arrow. If I start pressure on the half nut lever right on top of the line/number it doesn't lock in until slightly after the line/number. Actually I like it this way but will it throw off my threading?

No. Its OK.

 

[jmh8743]

Thanks to all responding to this thread and to Gary for initiating same. Special thanks to darkzero for that thorough post. Having purchased a JET 2 yrs ago (my first), I have been struggling with setup and non-compliance to the basic specifications all that time and the manufg essentially ignored my requests. More on that is herein.

Darkzero I would like to know where to find one of the "dogplates" you discussed. I purchased a Rohm 4 jaw and it has not been kind to a novice. I did like the looks of that 4jaw you have shown since it is much shorter than mine.

And the degree mark on the compound gave me a great idea. The JET marks are on the saddle and look like cave drawings. Hee Hee

That aside thanks to all.

Mike
Remlap AL

 

[darkzero]

Will,

Thumbs up on the speed chart. I've been using this model of lathe for several months and that never entered my mind. I have a tach and will compare notes and report later just for the sake of it.

Also, those are the sexiest chucks I've ever seen. I gotta think of a reason to get a 6 jaw LOL...

How do you like those "corrugated" belts, is that working OK for you? Seems like a good idea. What's the advantage?

BTW: Mine does not have a brake drum. The foot pedal just trips a switch -nothing more than that. It looks like you have the safety shield so maybe the brake drum comes as part of that option. Where/how did they attach the brake pads? The pedal switch needed adjustment on mine -done with a set screw in the assemble inside the left pedestal.

Ray

Thanks Ray! I only have spindle RPM data for the low range as I never used the high range. I may switch to high just to take measurements for the hell of it.

Yup, I love chuck porn! Nice chucks are like works of art & I love looking at them. I'm very happy with the 5" & "6.25" Bisons. The 5" Bison I had on my HF8x14. I got into machining because of custom flashlights & the 6-jaw really helped with that where the 3-jaw could hold stuff that i worked with. I was going to go with a Pratt Burnerd 6-jaw Set-Rite for the 12x36 but I didn't want to wait for the D1-4 back plate to be ordered so I went with the Bison. No regrets at all though of course.

I like the Fenner Power Twist Belts. I first used them cause I needed a slightly longer belt on my HF814 since the stock belt made speed changes harder. I changed speeds quite often & the belt did not last long. I assume they're not designed to be taken off/on & strecthed repeatedly.

I hear that 220V 1 phase motors can produce a vibration that can be seen in the finish. I'm not sure if that's true as I don't remember when using the stock belts but the link belts are supposed to reduce that since they reduce vibration. Link belts are claimed to be quieter than standard V-belts but I don't think that's true, not in my experiences anyway. The link belts were not really louder, just a different type of sound.

The belts that came with my bandsaw & HF814 were junk, they both had a bump where the ends were molded together & while running they were noticeable. also when a V-belt has been sitting for a while unused (especially in colder climates), they can suffer from "memory" which is also noticable when running. My belts suffered from this & caused bad vibrations. But a quality V-belt will take care of these issues & that won't be an issue if they're ran periodically. I run my lathe often so that's not an issue. These belts are popular amognst wood wookers who might have a table saw or sander or something that doesn't always get used.

I can't really comment on what benefits they may or may have not given me but I'm used to them & will continue using them. Plus my lathe, air compressor, & bandsaw all use the same size so whenever I have to change them I only need to keep one size on hand.

HF carries the green link belts that are made by a competitor of Fenner. HF only sells one width but it is the same width for the PM1236 (A, 1/2")
for a bit cheaper than the Fenner Power Twist. The green belts are made in the USA (yes, HF does sell a number of US made products which some people do not believe. )

BTW: Mine does not have a brake drum. The foot pedal just trips a switch -nothing more than that. It looks like you have the safety shield so maybe the brake drum comes as part of that option. Where/how did they attach the brake pads? The pedal switch needed adjustment on mine -done with a set screw in the assemble inside the left pedestal.

If you look at my photo ealier that shows the belts, you can see the micro switch & part of the bracket that the foot pedal bar connects to. That bracket is what engages the drum brake. The drum brake assy is inside the spindle pulley & looks pretty much like drum brakes on a car. It has two drum shoes. I'm pretty sure you're should have it. Maybe it just needs adjusting?

My 4 jaw and backing plate came separate on the pallet. The backing plate was machined to fit a 4 jaw chuck at the factory but it just wasn't my chuck because the box had never been opened. I mounted it and put on the machine and it looks like a one blade ceiling fan flying around. I figured it might. Like you said the lathe is very nice but the chucks, the D1 lugs and cams leave allot to be desired. The lugs in my backing plate won't even line up with the holes in my spindle.

My stock 4-jaw came mounted on the back plate & was just sitting on the pallet, no box. It needed quite a bit of deburring before I was comfortable using it. The jaws did not move freely at all. I couldn't even remove the back plate from the 4-jaw for some reason. Even though I don't use the 4-jaw that much at the time I decided to replace it with something better & I'm glad I did. The Fuerda is also made in China but it's pretty nice. It's no Buck, Bison, Pratt, etc but it's decent & i would buy it again if I had to. I may get a 3-jaw from Fuerda too.

Well, having mounted and static balanced a whole bunch of chucks for myself and others, I've worked-up a procedure that seems to work. I have another chuck to mount in the upcoming days so, I'll photograph the ordeal and you can choose for yourself to adopt some or all of the ideas. It takes a couple hours because you really need to get it right the first time.

That would be great Ray, lookig foward to it!

My tailstock was way out too. It was quite a bit high and right. The taper adjustment screws were stuck (full of filler and sand) so I took it apart and cleaned the machined surfaces. My windage is now dead on and my elevation looks be about .001-2 high. I will have to wait for my stuff to come in so I can get turning and find out.


I do have a question about the thread dial. Like darkzero was saying the numbers and lines on the dial are not lined up with the arrow. If I start pressure on the half nut lever right on top of the line/number it doesn't lock in until slightly after the line/number. Actually I like it this way but will it throw off my threading?

As Ray stated, nope it won't affect the threading. It's just for reference, what's important is that you always engage at the same place acording the numbers on the dial & the thread pitch.

The adjustment set screws on my tailstock are junk like many other screws & bolts on the lathe. But it's not surprising. The hex is broached off center & are shallow. I feel like they will strip out soon but luckily I don't touch them very often. I raplaced quite a few bolts on the lathe already & I will be replacing these too. I found exact replacements for them at Mcmaster but they come in quantities on 25 & of course I really only need two. I've been meaning to order them & when I do, maybe I'll offer some "sets" here for all us PM1236 guys.

Thanks to all responding to this thread and to Gary for initiating same. Special thanks to darkzero for that thorough post. Having purchased a JET 2 yrs ago (my first), I have been struggling with setup and non-compliance to the basic specifications all that time and the manufg essentially ignored my requests. More on that is herein.

Darkzero I would like to know where to find one of the "dogplates" you discussed. I purchased a Rohm 4 jaw and it has not been kind to a novice. I did like the looks of that 4jaw you have shown since it is much shorter than mine.

And the degree mark on the compound gave me a great idea. The JET marks are on the saddle and look like cave drawings. Hee Hee

That aside thanks to all.

Mike
Remlap AL

No problem Mike, anytime.

Unfortunately I don't know anything else about my dogplate. it was NOS that I found on ebay for $70. It looked great when I received it but I decided to remachine it anyway. Not sure if I did it the "correct" way but I through it in the 4-jaw, indicated the nose taper, faced where it rests against the spindle, then mounted it in the spindle & machined the rest of the surfaces. A dog plate doesn't need to be that precise but it repeats pretty much dead nuts now & it looks even nicer now.

I wish I knew more about & what it came off of as I never seen a dog plate that looks like this. I'm used to seeing the ones that just have one cutout on one side. But I'm not an experienced machinist & it seems like not very many hobbyist machinists turn between centers anymore so maybe someone els might know more about it? It didn't have any markings on it except "1850 RPM Max" on it. That gray paint on the backside is how it came.

My stock 4-jaw was a plain back chuck mounted to a D1-4 adapter. I choose to get the Fuerda 4-jaw in direct mount D1-4 so it doesn't stick out as far. I may do the same for the 3-jaw but I'm worried about what the run out will be as I won't be able to adjust it except by reworking the jaws.

I agree, I would love to have degree markings on my cross slide for the compound too instead of just one scratch line that isn't accurate by the way. I hate how most import lathe do not have a full scale & backwards which does no good for setting up for threading without having to use a protractor everytime. I'll post a pic later on how I do that in case anyone is interested.

The Grizzly G4002 & G4003 do have markings for the compound on the cross slide. I have thought about ordering that replacement part from Grizzly. It should fit but I'm not sure if it will need some fitting work done to it for the gibs. I'm assuming yes but hoping no. It's p/n P4002512 & costs $105. I plan to order it one day unless someone else wants to try first.

 

[tripletap3]

I just measured runout on the 3 jaw and the best I got was .003. I moved it in all three positions and the other two were close to .004. I had witness marked it before I removed the chuck for the first time and the original was the best. The 4 jaw was not as bad as it had looked by eye. I put a DI on the outside and face and it showed .005 run out. I removed it from the backing plate while on the machine and of course dropped it on my little finger smashing it open. After the pain subsided I went back out and DI'd the face of the backing plate and found .004 run out.

 

[Ray C]

Sorry to hear about the finger and hope it mends well. -Don't wish to force my procedures on anyone but you might want to try the technique as shown in the picture. Toss a piece of wood in there to support your hand. If it does drop on your hand, it won't get split between metal and it will spare you a ding in the ways.

Today I didn't heat the shop and for grins, I took all the chucks off and tested them to see if they still zero on the spindle. -Yep. First time, the backplate runs within a half-thou. I'm calling it good. It's possible that the summer heat may change things. -Will test again (or get AC for the garage). Hey, there's my excuse! Honey, I need AC in the garage so my lathe will run right. It's real important and I gotta have it! -Yeah -right!

I have an old 6", 4-jaw that I'm thinking of keeping but, my friend wants it desperately. One way or another, I'll post some pics using that one or just stage pics of one that's already done.

I wish I knew someone with a dynamic balancer though... Static balancing gets it right most of the time but one of them has a wiggle around 1200 R's but not at speeds higher or lower. Aside from other obvious reasons, that's another reason I'm converting all my equipment to 3PH VFD -so I can tweak little harmonic vibrations away. -Darn multiples of 60! -Be gone! LOL.

Ray

I just measured runout on the 3 jaw and the best I got was .003. I moved it in all three positions and the other two were close to .004. I had witness marked it before I removed the chuck for the first time and the original was the best. The 4 jaw was not as bad as it had looked by eye. I put a DI on the outside and face and it showed .005 run out. I removed it from the backing plate while on the machine and of course dropped it on my little finger smashing it open. After the pain subsided I went back out and DI'd the face of the backing plate and found .004 run out.