Buying my first mill

If you can't get someone on your side, and you said it is under power, get the owner to run the spindle thru all of it's speeds. Take note of any abnormal noises or metal to metal grinding noise that just doesn't sound good. On table speeds, run thru most of the feeds in all X-Y-Z directions as well as rapids in all directions. Either they work or they don't. If they don't work in any or all of the speeds or rapids, walk away! Also, while the motor is running, look for oil dripping in the sight glass on the spindle head and on side of the column. This will tell you if there is oil circulating to all of the critical points of oiling. Should be one on the saddle, too, just been too long ago to remember these things.

As for the slides, run your finger across the bearing surfaces. If you feel ridges, gouges, etc., it has wear. May not show all of it's original spotting marks, but should give you an indication of how much wear it has. Not always a deal breaker, but something to keep in the back of your mind. Got to remember this mill is over 70 years old and probably has had a hard life, especially in it's first 10 years of life. It's not going to be perfect, but it may be good enough to resurface heads with and such. Take lots of pictures, report back let us look at what you found. Ken
 
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I don't think you'll ever outgrow it. :)
I would prefer a horizontal with a vertical head to give you versatility. NMTB (NST and CAT) 50 tooling is available, for general milling I'd look for a ER40 collet set to take all of your smaller endmills. On the other hand you can go with several end mill holders that will hold 90% of what you want. You can deck a head with a fly cutter or a large face mill. I don't know what the machine will limit out at but I'd guess up to 10". The down side, large face mills are expensive plus the cost of the inserts.
Good luck,

Mike
 
Photos show a nice looking mill. But it is a very large and heavy piece of equipment. Where will you put it? If in your garage, likely your cement floor won't support the weight. Typical home construction usually ends up around 4" of concrete - this baby needs substantially more footing than that. If in your garage, it's possible the mill will crack the floor and permanently damage the foundation, due to massive weight.

Also, how will you move it into place, shift it around, around, and dispose of it in future years? 8000# means forklifts and cranes and riggers - every time you need to nudge it around.

Finally, didn't see any mention of tooling. You will need a seriously big vise, maybe a dividing head and Rotary table if you start using it to capacity. Tooling for large machines costs substantially more than most Hobbyist care to get involved with.

Guess what I am saying, is this is a massive piece of equipment for a hobby machinist. You might be better served with something like a Van Norman 12 or 16, or any of the burke/Millright, or Hardinge style universal mills. Same price, excellent quality, a LOT easier to deal with and learn on. And less expensive overall.

Good luck on your search! These old machines are wonderful!

Glenn
 
OK after another look at the mill is this a K & T horizontal mill with the vertical head?

If it is you can't ask for a better machine (if it runs). Take a look on Adam Booth's Abomb79 and Keith Rucker's Vintage Machinery sites on YouTube, I think they both have different model's of K & T mills. $1,500 for a tight machine that works in all speeds and feeds would be a good buy here in the South.
I'd love to see more and better photos of the mill, not just what is on Craigslist.

Mike
 
Bob,

Yes, I saw the photo of the vertical machine and think you are correct. I am not familiar with the in's and outs of the K machines and don't know if the vertical head comes off; or if it is as you say, strictly a vertical machine. I do know that some of the K & T's (with the big Milwaukee name plate) are horizontal machines with the ability t attach a vertical head. The vertical head unbolts and then using the "Parking Attachment" is moved to the side of the machine. The photo that Jason posted is of the horizontal machine with vertical attachment removed. I'm going to look around Vintage Machinery site to see if they have any info on the model K machines.
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2098/15212.pdf

Here are two photos of a horizontal machine that are marked "K"
K & T horizontal Model K.jpg

K&T_model K nameplate.jpg
 
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Bob,

Yes, I saw the photo of the vertical machine and think you are correct. I am not familiar with the in's and outs of the K machines and don't know if the vertical head comes off; or if it is as you say, strictly a vertical machine. I do know that some of the K & T's (with the big Milwaukee name plate) are horizontal machines with the ability t attach a vertical head. The vertical head unbolts and then using the "Parking Attachment" is moved to the side of the machine. The photo that Jason posted is of the horizontal machine with vertical attachment removed. I'm going to look around Vintage Machinery site to see if they have any info on the model K machines.
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2098/15212.pdf

Here are two photos of a horizontal machine that are marked "K"
View attachment 224451

View attachment 224452
Completely different beast. H, K, and S are series of machines of various types.
It is vertical only, note that there is no spindle hole on the face of the column.
 
Machine in the video didn't even know it was making a 3/8" cut in mild steel.
 
Machine in the video didn't even know it was making a 3/8" cut in mild steel.
Machines like these are what makes "real" machinists call Bridgeports "light mills." They would probably call my Millrite MVN a "toy."
 
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