Can a single phase motor be wired to run in reverse

Mikeyc66

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Let me start by saying that the amount of information I do not know about this topic is staggering. We don’t know what we don’t know but I don’t know a lot. I understand how to wire a circuit in basic terms and I am staring to wrap my mind around how a motor works. In fact to drive this point home, up until I bought my lathe just under a year ago, I had not even thought about running a single phase motorin both forward and reverse direction. My minute knowledge said, motor turns on, motor turns one direction. This was probably driven by the direction arrows I had seen on motor data plates. Well my horizons have been opened and this leads me to my current pondering.
I have a new to me, 1982 vintage Shen Wei 8x30 knee milling machine. It had a failing push button start switch (mechanical, not magnetic) and was wired to run on 240 VAC single phase. It has no option for anything other than on/off on the electrical side of the equation. It had a step pulley system to handle the mechanical half of that equation. The motor is most likely original to the machine as the data plate has a manufacture date of 9/1982 stamped on it and the machine itself (data plate on the main casting) has a date of 1982.
The motor data plate:7AD0A258-1792-4C8F-988C-53B6177DD004.jpeg

Internal wiring for the motor:
F3876575-EA6D-426E-9CDD-693C3F450080.jpeg
The wiring is consistent with the motor data plate and the unit was operational when I bought it. It ran excellent with no known issues at the time I bought it. When disassembling the machine to move it, I found that the wires inside of the machine were not up to any level of safe with poorly sized wire nuts and failing insulation on what quite frankly looked like scrap house wire. Now, this is not to say that it may have been factory installed in Taiwan when the unit was produced, but I wanted to remedy the problem. I say this because running new wires is already in the equation and not a barrier And other than major components we have a blank slate.

As a note for the picture above, leads 1-4 are gray wires and leads 5 and 6 are black wires which appear to be the wires to the start capacitor. All of the internal wiring appears to be in good shape and the as yet untested capacitor passed a visual “doesn’t look bad” inspection.

Here is the real root of the question, can this motor be run in both directions? I have a lathe and mill and neither are running and I feel like I will never get to use them because the projects to get them running keeps growing and not shrinking. I know that a 3 phase motor and VFD is a very viable option and would almost be preferred because can add the potential of variable (within reason) speed to the machine. That coupled with the step pulleys of simplifying to a single pulley set up would be a luxury. My concern with this time, knowledge and as with everyone money. Time in that I don’t have a lot of extra time and would love to be able to use my new machine instead of shuffle parts around the garage and hope to get it running some day. Knowledge, the opening statement should be enough there. Of course money is always an issue. If I can use the motor I have, it will hit the sweet spot, get me running and learning so that I can maybe upgrade later.

Making any physical changes to the motor to achieve reverse, if possible, will be handled by a professional. Although I am sure it is easy and I could do it, it is 100% outside of my knowledge base at this given time.

To those that know more than me, which I guarantee is a lot of people: teach me, guide me, chastise me if necessary.
 
This motor can certainly run in both directions.
Simply put, the starting circuit is reversed for directional control by use of a switch.
The switch can be a drum switch, a toggle switch. A reversing contactor or relays could be employed for the same purpose.
 
I agree with Mike (@Ulma Doctor) this motor should be reversible.

What you need to do is determine which termination goes to which winding.
This motor should have three windings; two are "run" windings and the other is the "start" winding.
You should have two wires for each winding, and so 6 wires; which you do!

Each of the three winding should only be connected across 120V.
The two run windings will be connected in parallel for 120V operation.
The two run windings will be connected in series for 240V operation.
(The 240V splits across the two windings to give 120V across each run winding.)

The start winding should have not only the start capacitor in series with it, but also a centrifugal switch.
This switch is internal to the motor (usually mounted to the inside of one end-plate) and consists some contacts that open when a rotor mounted weight spins.
All three components (winding start capacitor and centrifugal switch) are always in series; so you see only two wires externally.
The start winding only gives a pulse or kick to get the rotor started and then needs to drop out of the circuit.
The start winding (with cap and switch in series) will go across the 120V line for 120V operation.
The start winding (with cap and switch in series) will connect in parallel with one of the run windings for 240V operation.
(thus giving the start circuit 120V too).
In either configuration (120V or 240V) the two ends of the start winding are swapped to change the direction of rotation.

Since you said:
All of the internal wiring appears to be in good shape and the as yet untested capacitor passed a visual “doesn’t look bad” inspection.

You have likely already been inside the motor.
If you can look again and report back with
1) what are the three pairs of winding?
2) which one is the "start" winding (with cap and switch in series)

Then we could give some real guidance on how to set this motor up for either voltage and either direction.

From the above pictures I believe 1-2 is one run winding.
However there is no way from here to tell the other two apart.

Brian
 
Single phase motors not explicitly designated as reversible on the name plate usually have the start winding hard wired rather than accessible from the outside. To reverse the motor direction requires exposing the internal connections. Simply put, the internal connection of the start winding to one end of the run winding has to be broken and the winding connected to the other end of the run winding. It can be done as I have done this on several motors recently but it is not a trivial task. Here is the link to my post on motor winding surgery.
 
Looking at the connection diagram, I believe 1-2 and 3-4 are run windings and 5-6 are the start windings
 
Here is the real root of the question, can this motor be run in both directions?

The short answer is that yes, the design is capable of running in either direction.

The long answer is "it depends...." The complexity and practicality of doing this can be "variable". Some motors are built so that this is easy to do, others are made to such a price point that you can not, with any practicality, access what you need to do this. Also don't forget (not a deal breaker, some reversing is better than no reversing...), but this motor, if it is switched up to be reversible, will be required to coast to a stop before being switched back on in the opposite direction. Instant reverse isn't an option.

Making any physical changes to the motor to achieve reverse, if possible, will be handled by a professional.

Most professionals wont touch that. Data tag doesn't list reversing, they're not going to do it, because any listings, compliances, or stamps of approval that the motor may or may not have are out the window if it's "modified". That includes simply rearranging the connections when they are right there and designed to be rearranged. If the configuration isn't listed..... Not approved.

Although I am sure it is easy and I could do it, it is 100% outside of my knowledge base at this given time.

To those that know more than me, which I guarantee is a lot of people: teach me, guide me, chastise me if necessary.


I'd suggest reading this thread carefully (excellent advice from brino here already, and the two links, a couple of replies up are good as well.) If you can wrap your head around that enough to feel confident, Including picking a style and wiring up the switchgear, then you should do it. If you're gonna carry it off to have this done, I wouldn't bother. (They're gonna need to set up the switchgear as well, so "carrying it off" will probably devolve from work in their shop, to a service call even if they were willing...). If you know a guy who is a professional during their day job, but not so much in the evenings and weekends..... That might be an option.
 
Here is a video i made a couple years ago, just to illustrate my point in post 2.

i used a GE single direction motor, removed the centrifugal start switch, added a SinPak SSR switch , and rewired for bi-directional use by use of a drum switch.
here is the write up:

for the video:
 
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