Can Anyone Id This Lathe?

Most all machinery came painted black in the 1800's to early 1900's. The gray tones started showing up in the late 1920's early 1930's and later. Nobody says you have to keep the color!
 
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I am thinking about buying it, and I go to see it next weekend.

Ied like to see it BUT
 
Thanks Ken for the comment. I actually will keep her black. I kinda like that. Although, I may go with gold lettering vs. the white.
 
Dlane, if you go to page 1, there are pictures of her about halfway down. RustRP, I'll get a picture posted of the gear train.
 
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You really can't go wrong with a black/gold scheme.
-James Huston
 
Some pictures, more to come:
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The bath in progress:

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BTW, I am not sure what kind of black paint L&S used, but OMG it was like iron on top of iron. Too bad our paints today don't stick like that! I spent over an hour just wire brushing the front of the bed! Paint stripper barely even touched it. What a pita, but she will look good. I have also decided to go with a 2-tone paint job. Lathe bed and headstock: black. Apron, cross slide, tailstock, and any other items: machine grey. I am still debating between gold and red highlighting on the raised letters on the bed. Some may not "like" the 2-tone approach, but it just seems like it will look really nice. Base structure: black Movable parts: grey. Nice contrast in my book.
 
I had a flat belt lathe of that vintage with ways well worn. It was 12" swing. Seldom were the worn ways a true problem because for a hobbyist most jobs need to be precise over a short distance. I didn't have trouble with the flat belt and I considered it a slip clutch if something did go wrong. It looks worth more than what you paid even if ways are worn. You can braze a tooth where one is missing and file to shape. Turn outside diameter true. Using layout dye roll your new tooth with mating gear and file off the high spots. Continue until you have a tooth of the right shape. I could hear that gear but it ran flawlessly for years. If time is money then buying and modifying may be a better choice.
 
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BTW, I am not sure what kind of black paint L&S used, but OMG it was like iron on top of iron. Too bad our paints today don't stick like that! I spent over an hour just wire brushing the front of the bed! Paint stripper barely even touched it. What a pita, but she will look good. I have also decided to go with a 2-tone paint job. Lathe bed and headstock: black. Apron, cross slide, tailstock, and any other items: machine grey. I am still debating between gold and red highlighting on the raised letters on the bed. Some may not "like" the 2-tone approach, but it just seems like it will look really nice. Base structure: black Movable parts: grey. Nice contrast in my book.
Not at all sure, but I think some of those old paints were based on tar. You are correct, it really sticks and does not want to come off. If you really want to get it off, you might try a petroleum based solvent like kerosene. I think I would research it and try to replicate the original finish. She ain't a hot rod, she's an antique classic...
 
Bob is right, they used to use a tar based paint, "lamp black" they used to call it. Kerosene may cut it, I doubt it. I recall that stuff being impossible to break down. Pretty much left it and painted the bed with my flavor of color at the time. That so called "paint" was also like Bondo and used as a filler, too. You want to be careful cleaning paint off of the old machines. Before the 1950's they used lead based paints on machinery. If you used any of the "good" paint remover that has methochloride, however you spell it and get a 'burnt orange" bleed, it contains lead.
 
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