can anyone identify this model?

also would like to know what the original motor pulley size was as you can see in the pic, someone has hacked on a 4 wide pulley setup, need to do some work there!
 
Rambin (you need to set up your signature),

1-1/2"-8 is most likely what it is. But you don't need a thread pitch gauge to confirm it. Lay the scale shown in one of your photos down on the spindle nose, with zero in line with the first full thread. Another thread should appear in line with every 1/8" mark on the scale. And the major diameter of the threads should be 1-1/2" or up to about .005" less when measured with a caliper set.

There are a lot of different ways in which they are done on various brand lathes, but there are two basic steps on almost all lathes to switch from Direct drive to Back Gear drive. Step 1 is to take the machine out of Direct drive. Step 2 is to put it into back gear drive. To go back to Direct drive, you reverse the order. Step 1 is to take it out of Back Gear. Step 2 is to put it back into Direct. It sounds as though you are skipping step 1. Some machines have a lever for each step. But in your case, I think that I see the head of the direct drive pin in your 6th photo showing the spindle nose and bearinbg. The pin goes through a hole in the bull gear and into a hole in the right end of the spindle pulley, The pin has some sort of spring loaded ball detent in the bull gear that holds the pin either IN or OUT. If there isn't already one, make a mark on the right rim of the spindle pulley and in line with the pin. Pull the pin toward the tailstock until the ball clicks into the second detent. You should not be able to turn the spindle freely, without turning the motor. Now do Step 2.

Before you run the lathe in back gear, find and remove the oil screw from the spindle pulley. It is probably in the OD of the 2nd or third pulley step. Squirt SAE 20 into the hole, replace the oil screw, and run the lathe in back gear for about 10 seconds. The first time that you do it, repeat the steps twice. After that, oil the pulley bushings every day that you use back gear or once every 6 months or so. And oil the back gear bushings with the same frequency.

I can't help with the pulley size.
 
thanks wa5 I found that little plunger and pulled it out and there she was....hard to get my big fingers on it though... slowly figuring this thing out... definatly would like to find out the proper pully size from the motor though... then I would have an idea what speeds im turning at... since I only have a 4 jaw I need to get a dial indicator to center it I guess... any suggestions there im not wanting to throw big money on this thing right now so i''m willing to deal with an off shore brand
 
I cant see enough of the direct drive pin's head to say but on the Atlas lathes and mills, the pin heads have a groove cut around them into which you can fit the tip of a slot blade screwdriver for pulling the pin out without getting your fingers greasy. The mill (whose direct drive pin is difficult even to see, let alone access) came with a special tool that looked like a miniature bent-tip flat pry bar with a round bottom slot cut in the tip. I don't know whether or not the Logan/Wards pins have the groove in the pin head.
 
todays mission was to fix that switch plate someone had left.... polished the brass filler plate up and bought a new switch and some ext cord cable and went to town...looks better and a lot easier to turn on..no more messing with a plug!

20170620_133228.jpg
 
took the apron off to investigate some wobble in the apron crank.... found out the hole in the casting was off center causing it to look like a bent crank... also found some brazing repair under the apron...how that ever happened i'll never know but apparently it broke somewhere along the line... cleaned it all up and oiled it.... auto cross feed is working but not the apron travel, think the split nut is wore too bad???

20170622_135118.jpg

20170622_135133.jpg
 
Are the split nuts closing properly around the shaft? There is a plate that moves them when the handle is rotated
that has to go together one way. The slots milled in it "cam" the half nut in place. If it was assembled incorrectly you may not get full travel of the half nuts.
 
Back
Top