Chattering counter sink with brass

You need to dull your countersinks to use them in brass with success.

[video=youtube;8Ri6poVpQM8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ri6poVpQM8[/video]
 
CODEMAN said:
Ok…plenty of single flute countersinks on Amazon. So what degree? 60, 82, 100? I'm using it for typical #8 wood screws.

STeve
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I did a quick internet search and it looks like wood screws are either 82 or 90 degrees, with 82 degrees being more common. I guess I would go with the 82 degree countersinks.
 
JimDawson said:
I did a quick internet search and it looks like wood screws are either 82 or 90 degrees, with 82 degrees being more common. I guess I would go with the 82 degree countersinks.
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82 degrees is for imperial screws and 90 degrees are for metric screws.
 
I use the zero-flute countersinks and they produce no chatter in all the materials I've used them on, including brass. Single flute countersinks work great also but they seem to prefer slower speeds and a positive feed so they cut continuously. If I get chatter with those I just turn off the drill press and feed the countersink in as it coasts down. It may take a few passes this way but it makes for a very nice countersink.

Wood screws require a 82 degree countersink. Weldon makes a nice set of 4 zero-flute countersinks that works for most wood screws - mine says its a "WCGM-set". Highly recommended for this application.
 
Exactly,mikey. You will not get 6 sided countersunk holes with a single flute countersink,either.
 
george wilson said:
Countersinks with only ONE cutting edge cut smoother than those with multiple edges. There are also the "0" flute countersinks,which still have only 1 cutting edge. I just use the single cutting edge ones,as they can be sharpened readily,and they will do smaller holes than the "0" flute ones(which have a hole drilled through them to produce the cutting edge. You will have no trouble with a single edge countersink.
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how do you sharpen the single flute countersinks?
 
I just slightly hit the cutting edge with the side of the grinding wheel. Do as little as possible to prolong the life of the countersink.

I might add that I have made many special angle countersinks. They are made by turning the countersink(CS from now on!) on the lathe. Then,just mill the cs down to the centerline(mill half the diameter away. They cut just as well as single flutes with concave cutting edge. Then,harden and draw to dark brown. Sometimes I have made these angled CS's and used them for special use end mills on softer metals. I had to make a strip of pewter that had several cuts across its width. When the pewter strip (2"" wide) was folded up,the angled cuts would close up nicely so that a little solder would render the joints filled up. These were the sides of octagonal tobacco boxes for the 1982 Summit of leading manufacturing nations which was held in Williamsburg. I also made the casting patterns for the base and the lid from delrin. There was not a lot left for the silversmiths to do except solder them together and polish.
 
mikey said:
I use the zero-flute countersinks and they produce no chatter in all the materials I've used them on, including brass. Single flute countersinks work great also but they seem to prefer slower speeds and a positive feed so they cut continuously. If I get chatter with those I just turn off the drill press and feed the countersink in as it coasts down. It may take a few passes this way but it makes for a very nice countersink.

Wood screws require a 82 degree countersink. Weldon makes a nice set of 4 zero-flute countersinks that works for most wood screws - mine says its a "WCGM-set". Highly recommended for this application.
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Does the material of the countersink matter? For countersinking brass, what material should the CS be?
 
All the commercial countersinks are steel and they work fine for brass.
 
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