Chips are flying

Jason812

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I'm guilty of this too but it seems that there are more posts with issues and solving problems than showing off the machines running. I had to modify some front brake spindles/rotors for a prototype job. I had to cut the rotor off and turn the rest of the spindle. This has the opportunity to become a production job which would be cool but messy. Cast iron is not fun because of the dust and mess but I learned I need to wear some long sleeves as my forearms were peppered running these.

Took a couple of cuts, measured, set the DRO, cut down to .01" above final diameter, measured (was on the money), made finish pass. Switched tools to chamfer, ran part #2 and hit the measurement with no adjustments. This lathe is pretty spot on and I use an Aloris toolpost and holders and I went old school with the vernier. The target was 6.5"

The video is taking .025" DOC (.050" diameter) with the feed on C8 (.011 on the chart). CCMT32.52 Mitsubishi inserts. I finished at 675 rpm and E8 on the feed with a .005" DOC.


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You're .002" under , I can see that from here ! :big grin: JK , I love the beam verniers also . :)
 
Looks good. I can only imagine. They say 1144 stresspl proof is free machining and I guess I misunderstood. Is it easy to turn? Yes! is it easy to drill? Yes! But it sure as heck makes a mess and burns holes in my clothes. Darn near smokes me out too. I had a different idea of free machining. I'll stick with stainless and aluminum over that stuff.

I might be missing something but what lathe are you running? My 1228 has been spot in when I want it to be. I mean aside from a few things that are easy enough to fix.
 
I will take the short chips from steel or chase breaking a chip in aluminum over cast iron any day. I think more cast iron chips land on the floor than in the chip pan.

Its a 1340GT 3 phase with Mark Jacob's magic. I have been pleased with the lathe so far.
 
Looks good. I can only imagine. They say 1144 stresspl proof is free machining and I guess I misunderstood. Is it easy to turn? Yes! is it easy to drill? Yes! But it sure as heck makes a mess and burns holes in my clothes. Darn near smokes me out too. I had a different idea of free machining. I'll stick with stainless and aluminum over that stuff.

I might be missing something but what lathe are you running? My 1228 has been spot in when I want it to be. I mean aside from a few things that are easy enough to fix.

Free machining just means it forms chips instead of long, stringy chips when cut with the right cutting conditions. 1144 is one of the nicest materials to work with because it cuts readily, turns to a nice satin finish and is pretty warp-resistant. I use it a lot and prefer it over most mild steels.
 
Free machining just means it forms chips instead of long, stringy chips when cut with the right cutting conditions. 1144 is one of the nicest materials to work with because it cuts readily, turns to a nice satin finish and is pretty warp-resistant. I use it a lot and prefer it over most mild steels.
I'm sure I'm doing it wrong! It didnt like my coated stainless inserts. It did like the standard gold ccmt inserts ALOT but I ran out of the originals I bought from matt beginning of project. The new ones I ordered for the project didnt fit my holders correctly and I was in too much of a rush to try hss. I have some extra stock so I'll give it another try with hss and gold ccmt inserts.

This hammer is 1144 handle and head with 6061 ends. It does have a smooth satin finish even when using the wrong inserts.

Hopefully I'm not being rude going off on another subject.
 

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I'm sure I'm doing it wrong! It didnt like my coated stainless inserts. It did like the standard gold ccmt inserts ALOT but I ran out of the originals I bought from matt beginning of project. The new ones I ordered for the project didnt fit my holders correctly and I was in too much of a rush to try hss. I have some extra stock so I'll give it another try with hss and gold ccmt inserts.

This hammer is 1144 handle and head with 6061 ends. It does have a smooth satin finish even when using the wrong inserts.

Hopefully I'm not being rude going off on another subject.

1144, like most alloy steels, responds best to a good feed rate. Your hammer came out really nice but if you look closely you will see fine lines on the handle. Those lines are from the nose radius inscribing a pattern from the feed rate. With inserts, you have to keep up the feed rate to prevent that. I know there is a formula for these things but every lathe is different so you'll have to play with your feed rate until you figure out what yours is, then write it down somewhere. It will be faster than you think.

When cutting this stuff with HSS, you can use your edges to better advantage because the edges are sharp. This makes turning 1144 to a nice finish a lot easier, especially if the rake angles are ground for this material.

In most alloy steels that are harder than the typical mild steels we work with, it is better to use a lower speed and a higher feed rate to rough with and a light depth of cut, a lot of speed and a slow feed to finish. For example, I rough O-1 steel at pretty low speeds and I use a feed rate fast enough so I don't work harden the surface. When I finish it to size, I crank up the speed to as fast as my lathe will run, take very light finishing cuts and feed really slow. This usually produces a near mirror finish. You might give it a try.
 
How sharp are you taking with the hss?

I'm definitely intrested in turning some 01 tool steel. The aluminum ends came out better than they look. I ended up scratching them pretty bad because I put them in collets without deburring them and it messed everything up.
 
My HSS turning tools will cut curlicues in newsprint so they're sharp.
 
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