Cincinnati No 2 Tool Cutter Grinder - let the fun begin!

MSC has a pound tube of 14" cast iron electrodes for stick welders for around $25. which might be a less expensive alternative. They used to call them eutectic welding rods, and would bore out small block Chev. motors till the bores overlapped, then install cast iron sleeves butted against each other and weld up the block. They ended up with huge displacement motors with small block outer dimensions. They supposedly had good success doing this.
 
The update for the project:

Paint has cured on the items that I sprayed so I set about re-assembly. The big work head went together fairly easily. The lock nut on the back end is amazing! the machinist fit a section into the nut and then threaded the nut. For securing you tighten a set screw that slightly moved the set in piece and locks the threads - super cool engineering.

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The head rotates super smooth and the index works well. I put everything together with just a smear of assembly grease. Grinding dust is a bugger with these machines and the more I am reading the more it looks like keeping it as simple in the lube department as possible is the way to go. Mostly light oils for the parts and some things they just say to leave dry or only a drop or two.

The motor driven head and the surface grinder vise support came out well:

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The surface grinder vise base was badly cracked and had been thread insert repaired for the threads. I neglected pictures but I repaired it with more cast iron mig welding and then machining the support surface flat. After boring out the hole where the thread insert was fitted, it turns out it is a 9/16- 12 tpi - argh! lucky I was to find a tap in my odds and sods so it went back together ok. I used a higher grade loctite to ensure the insert would stay put - the green bearing retainer stuff...626?

The Work Head was missing the handle for securing the 50 taper collets and the original guy was using a piece of 1" threaded rod with washers. Today I made a new handle. It is hot rolled as it is pretty beefy and really not subject to much wear. The dial was a piece of 3' round off cut I salvaged. I bored the center to 1.000" and then made the screw shaft 1.003 for a very tight shrink fit. I froze the shaft and heated the handle (in its rough form) and then put the two together and finished machined them as a unit. The screw shaft providing a mandrel for the handle.

I blued the assembly with some gun bluing and then light oiled.

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Note: 45 deg. Chamfer tool shown in the above pic - not the threading tool

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I left the shaft long on the shrink fit as I am thinking to mill some flats in case I need a wrench on the end at some point. Also the end may need a tap to unseat the 50 taper, might as well have a wee tapping place!

Next on the docket is to start machining a new shaft for the slow and feed, clean the bottom of the saddle assembly and get it back on the base. The base will get a good clean and then on the back burner for paint etc until later in the year. I will try and get things operational before then as disassembled it takes up a lot of space I do not have - also lots of other projects on the go........
 
Wow, you are serious about this.
That draw bar is probably better than original!

Nice work.
-brino
 
Some delays in posting as back to work -

one issue with the Cincinnati was that the cross feed screw was pretty sloppy. You could turn about a full revolution, maybe more before the table started to move. Some of it was in the bearings not being set right and the other bigger problem was that the cross feed nut was toast. The threads were all jagged and mostly gone. The cross feed nut is a left hand 1” - 8 tpi ACME and the whole assembly is cast iron - new version on ebay is like $620.

The shaft for the feed screw was pretty good and the threads were also ok. The majority of the problem was with the cast iron. For $620 I figured I would try for a repair.

I started by milling out the threads and then enlarging the bore to accept a bronze sleeve threaded for 1-8 LH ACME. The threads were gone from the original after a 0.020” pass.

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After milling out the bore I was able to leave about 1/8” of cast to hold the insert. The insert I turned about 1.5 thou oversized and then threaded 1”-8 LH ACMe. In the process I had a gear spin out on my lathe (needed a new one) and that destroyed my first attempt. I later machined a new Bronze insert with success on a lathe at work and then shrunk fit the two pieces together. Permanent loctite was added for additional support. It looks good - hopefully holds and works better.

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Added some paint

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I am in the process of making some of the shafts but a bit way laid now as I need to make a new gear and shaft for my lathe - argh!
 
I wish I could see your latest pictures!
-brino


EDIT: okay weird, theres about a 50/50 chance that I can see the pictures if I "refresh" the web page. Likely just due to the slow access issues I continue to see on this site......
 
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hopefully you can see the pics. I lessened the quality and I think they are only 1.5 Mb each verses the typical 4 from the phone.....
 
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