Clamping kits

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Hukshawn

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Are clamping kit studs usually hardened?
I had a 3/8" kit for my mini mill that I sold when I sold the mill because they won't fit the full size mill. Ive been meaning to buy another 1/2" kit, but never seem to justify the $100 when I'm at the store.

I would only need a few pieces, I could easily make. Not that I may harden the studs, I assume I'd just get high grade threaded rod. But are they usually hardened?
 
They are not hardened, if they are then just a light case harden. You could make your own T nuts and use threaded rod for the studs.
 
I have a thirty year old 3/8" toe clamp set that came with my mill/drill and a 1/2" set that I got with my Tormach. Both mills have 5/8" slots. Early on, I made my own Tee nuts, threaded for 3/8" -16. I used mild steel and have used them extensively for thirty years with no failures yet. It would be nice to be able to purchase 5/8" Tee nuts threaded for 3/8" - 16 but what the hey, we're machinists, right? Individual studs, clamps, etc. can be purchased. I have used All Thread and machine bolts as studs. I fasten my milling vise with 1/2" bolts of proper length to eliminate the stick up that a stud can cause.

I actually use the 1/2" set very little as the 3/8" set is smaller and doesn't get in the way as much when machining. My older 3/8" set is definitely hardened as a number of end mills can attest to. The newer Chinese 1/2" set cuts easily with a file.
 
In the shop that I apprenticed, we made all our clamping gear, T nuts, studs, and clamps, machine burned from plate, the studs were made of 4140 HT, the T nuts were made of 1040 steel, and heel blocks were 4X4 fir. In my original commercial shop I did basically the same, on a smaller scale, nowadays I use mostly commercial clamp kits and some commercial Tee bolts for such as clamping down machine accessories.
 
I like mild steel shop made t-nuts better than everything else out there, including better ones like Teco. They fit the way YOU want them to, and are soft enough to not damage the t-slots.
 
I have both a 3/8" set and a 1/2" set, both are inexpensive imports and not hardened, which is what I prefer. I have made extra tee nuts and custom length studs. The purchased pieces are blackened not because they are hard, but rather to keep them from rusting. It seems to be a constant battle to keep my shop made pieces from rusting and I have been planning to blacken them for that very reason. One more little project on the list!
 
I personally do just fine with the cheap import sets. You should be able to get a 50+ piece set for about $50 or maybe a little less on Amazon, Ebay or even Shars.
 
I'm using a set of TECO one's with a variety of noname nut and tee nuts, and blocks left over from dad's shop bought in 1978. Still in good shape to today. I unintentionally bent two of the longest studs using them for an application that didn't have anything to do with bolting anything down to the table. Had to do with moving a mill into the garage. I do agree with making your own tee nut to use. I've seen way too much tee slot damage on several mill I've been around using hard tee nuts. The last thing I don't like to see is Gorillas tightening this stuff so tight that you either warp the part you are securing to machine, breaking straps, or wear down the flanged nuts to where they are dished shaped. Oh, making belleville washers out of flat washers. Off my barstool, it's getting late, time to go to bed.
 
I prefer unhardened.
I want the hold downs to bend or break before my T-slots.
Regardless, the best way to prevent this is to avoid over-tightening.

Daryl
MN
 
I've bought 3 different import sets on ebay for around 50 bucks
 
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