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Clausing 100 mk3a Timken spindle bearings

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COMachinist

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#1
Hi All
Well I think it is time to change bearings in my Clausing 100 mk3a. So I don’t know crapola about bearing but I know they aren’t cheap. How ever a new lathe is $3600+ for Grizzly or a PM 12x36 lathe. So bearings would be cheap I guess. I want best bearings but don’t know what ask for or order. Don't even know the bearings that are in it. I do know it has started chattering like crazy all of a sudden, and there is about .0015-002 play in the spndle side to side and less than 5 tenths end to end so thinking bearings. Any one know the numbers of bearing and class I need to order? Where to order? I search the forum for bearing info on clausing but no joy. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
CH
 

Kernbigo

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#2
Sounds like they may only need to be taken up a little. Put a piece of round stock in the chuck about a foot long and give it the lift test. By taking up some end play you will reduce the amount of lift.Timken's cold should be around +.001
 

markba633csi

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#3
Yes they may only need readjusting, try that first.
Mark
 

COMachinist

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#4
Ok that is what i did, the lift test. .002 I tried to adjust the end play but that is about .0005-.0007 and can’t be 0’d out no help on the run out. I don’t know how old the bearings are. They maybe original for all I know. I have had the lathe a few years and usd the heck put of it. Never had chatter unless I over did depth of cut, untill now.q even lite cuts chatter like crazy. Gibs are all adjusted, clean and oiled. It’s got drip oilers and I keep them full.
 

wa5cab

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#5
While over tightening the spindle bearings should have no effect on runout, with tapered roller bearings you should always be able to reduce the end float to zero. And the lift to zero also unless your chuck jaws are bell mouthed. When cold, Timkens should be slightly over tightened to all for lengthening of the spindle as it warms up. The only exception that I could think of was if either cone is not at least a light press fit on the spindle.

When doing the lift test, you should use a solid bar that will just fit through the spindle and indicate the register area of the spindle, not the bar.

On buying the bearings, you should be able to still get them from Clausing. I never asked about ones for a Clausing but I know that they do still stock ones for the Atlas machines.
 

rock_breaker

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#6
I think I have a similar lathe and believe you may have a cracked bearing roller. Not the best news I know but I believe you can check them without much trouble. Memory fails me so you may want to check with the Clausing lathe site in the UK.
I bought replacement bearings about 10 years ago through the CarQuest auto parts store. Yes they are pricey.
There used to be a bearing house in Colorado Springs, Moore Bearing Co. that supplied most bearings to the cement plant near Florence. Not sure if they are still there but Pueblo Bearing, Pueblo, CO was a good source as well.
Have a good day
Ray
P.S. You may want to take the bearings to the replacement supplier to be sure of all dimensions.
 
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COMachinist

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#7
While over tightening the spindle bearings should have no effect on runout, with tapered roller bearings you should always be able to reduce the end float to zero. And the lift to zero also unless your chuck jaws are bell mouthed. When cold, Timkens should be slightly over tightened to all for lengthening of the spindle as it warms up. The only exception that I could think of was if either cone is not at least a light press fit on the spindle.

When doing the lift test, you should use a solid bar that will just fit through the spindle and indicate the register area of the spindle, not the bar.

On buying the bearings, you should be able to still get them from Clausing. I never asked about ones for a Clausing but I know that they do still stock ones for the Atlas machines.
Hi
Actually I called Clausing and they where abosulutly no help at all. The lady was only able to tell me that the bearings where discontinued, which I allready figured. They couldnot even tell me a temkin Number. I mean she was wortless.
CH
 

COMachinist

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#8
I think I have a similar lathe and believe you may have a cracked bearing roller. Not the best news I know but I believe you can check them without much trouble. Memory fails me so you may want to check with the Clausing lathe site in the UK.
I bought replacement bearings about 10 years ago through the CarQuest auto parts store. Yes they are pricey.
There used to be a bearing house in Colorado Springs, Moore Bearing Co. that supplied most bearings to the cement plant near Florence. Not sure if they are still there but Pueblo Bearing, Pueblo, CO was a good source as well.
Have a good day
Ray
P.S. You may want to take the bearings to the replacement supplier to be sure of all dimensions.
Hi Rock Braeker
I may talk to Whistler Bearing here in Colorado Springs. They usually are willing to help. Im tring to get a couple projects finished before i rebuild the spindle. Is there any way to get the bearing numbers without tearing down the lathe head stock? It looks like this could take a while to get parts together. I am tempted to just try to get the money together and order a Grizzly 12x36 gunsmith lathe or a Presion Mathews. That lathe has paid for its self many times over. Ijust hate to scrap a nice old iron lathe like that. I have so much nice tooling for it. Oh well every thing gets old theses days, kind of like me, ready for the scrap heap.
CH
 

wa5cab

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#9
Hi
Actually I called Clausing and they where abosulutly no help at all. The lady was only able to tell me that the bearings where discontinued, which I allready figured. They couldnot even tell me a Temkin Number. I mean she was wortless.
CH
Well, that is quite strange. I don't have a Clausing lathe and all of my calls to Clausing have been about Atlas lathes, mills, etc. I had just assumed that if they still supported the Atlas line at least partially, they would for sure have continued support of the Clausing line. Maybe they made so few of them that there wasn't enough business to warrant keeping parts.

In any case, if no one knows what the commercial bearing numbers are, if they are Timken the 3, 4 or 5-digit Timken part numbers should be etched into both the cup and the cone.

Also, although I can't guarantee that Clausing still has this info as they still do some of the Atlas, but it's worth another phone call and this time, ask for Tom McNett. Unfortunately, Jolene, the woman in Sales who would at least have been able to tell you flatly that they didn't have any info on the older Clausing machines retired maybe two years ago. The ones who are left are a mix of helpful but haven't been there too long and (censored).

In any case, I would hate to see you scrap the Clausing in favor of something from Grizzly just over a pair of bearings.
 

rock_breaker

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Hi Rock Braeker
I may talk to Whistler Bearing here in Colorado Springs. They usually are willing to help. Im tring to get a couple projects finished before i rebuild the spindle. Is there any way to get the bearing numbers without tearing down the lathe head stock? It looks like this could take a while to get parts together. I am tempted to just try to get the money together and order a Grizzly 12x36 gunsmith lathe or a Presion Mathews. That lathe has paid for its self many times over. Ijust hate to scrap a nice old iron lathe like that. I have so much nice tooling for it. Oh well every thing gets old theses days, kind of like me, ready for the scrap heap.
CH
If you are beyond 84 you may be getting old. I do not have records of the bearing numbers. There is a website in the UK that may have this information, not sure about the Clausing dealership here in the US.
As for dismantling the headstock it seems like the outer races do the adjusting but am unsure about the one on the chuck end. I do remember using 1/2" all thread a bearing splitter and shims to get the shaft out. As I recall I didn't push against the cast iron housing but included it as shim material. Some of the shims were 1/2" torch cut scrap iron with the slag ground off.
If you do retire your lathe please keep me in mind.
Ray
 

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#11
You keep talking the ole girl down she's gonna hear you . Bearings are out there and all over , you just have to get the numbers. Lots of bearing suppliers still carry timken bearings. If you were close to me I'd help fix it just to keep her doing what she's made for.
 

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#12
Ask for P6 precision class bearings if you want the best bearings.
 

Shootymacshootface

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#13
It sounds like your lathe is unusable in its present state, so the first thing that i would do is remove the bearings and races. They should have numbers right on them. Then i would check with Fleepride, NAPA, or a bearing specialty store (in that order) for availability and pricing.
 

GrayTech

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#14
Once you know the numbers you can search for deals. Always best to pull out the old ones and match them in case any mods were done and they're not standard.
I was lucky and found two matched pairs of 62x25 metric Timken roller bearings with cups (4 complete bearings) for $40 including shipping. Always good to have a spare set, especially at that price.
 

seagiant

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#15
Hi,
There should be a Timken # in the Manual let me know???
 

wa5cab

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#16
No, the manuals only show the Clausing part numbers, which include both cup and cone (if the bearings are tapered roller instead of ball).
 

wa5cab

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#18
As I wrote earlier, it would be worth a phone call to Clausing. Ask for Tom McNett. He will at least know whether or not Clausing still has anything on the 100 or 4800 Series.
 

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#19
8500 series, think that's the number I have bearings are around $3000 and My finger did not stutter. I also need a set.o_O:eek::bawling:
 

COMachinist

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#20
Hi,
There should be a Timken # in the Manual let me know???
Well found the bearing number in an old doc called the service and repair manual problem is the only thing that they list is the clausing part number, which we already know is discontinued. So alternative is to tear down the lathe and completely restor it. Mean while it looks like I will be buying a new PM, 12x36 or a new Grizzly G0750G 12x36. I like the Grizzly because ever thing Is sealed so the grit from the shop don’t get in the gear head and or the change box, plus you can get to the spider with out taking the end gear covers.
I don’t think after you buy all the add ons., cast iron cabnets/stands the better motor the PM is a lot more exspensive. Precision Mathews does have the Ultra precision 12x36 but is is even closer near 5k and that is to much for me now.
CH
 

Shootymacshootface

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#21
Again, if you were to remove your old bearings there is an excellent chance that you will find a Timken or TRW part number right on the bearing. Any parts guy with a computer can then easily find a replacement. Forget about the obsolete Clausing number.
 

Latinrascalrg1

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#22
Is the spindle bearing for this lathe a timkin 14125A tapered bearing or is it a timkin 30212 P5 bearing?
 
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wa5cab

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#23
Most tapered roller bearings consist of two separable parts, a cup and a cone. Most cones will fit several non-interchangable cups. And some cups will fit more than one cone. Most (but not all) manufacturers who use standard tapered roller bearings assign their own part number to the cup and cone that they use as it simplifies logistics. But no one outside of a specific company would maintain lists of OEM to individual part numbers. For that information, you have to either look at the ones that your machine uses or go to the OEM. As I said earlier.
 

COMachinist

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#24
Is the spindle bearing for this lathe a timkin 14125A tapered bearing or is it a timkin 30212 P5 bearing?
I’m not sure what the bearing numbers are. I don’t have the lathe disassembled yet. I just finshed a project I was working on , a new draw bar for my mill. I also made new larger dials for the crossslide. The chater was so bad on the draw bar it looked like it was cold chiseled out. Tis has just started in last month or so and, yes the end play and preload on the spindle was checked. I also saw the two teeth are broken off the spindle bull gear which I have not used at all. I do all my single point threading on the slowest belt settingaa which is slow enough if you pay attention. I’m going to get started just as sone as I get a replacement lathe. To use this summer. Think I’ll just completely restore the old gal and have the bed restored and new paint bearings and bushings. I have about a foot of acme lh 1/2” rod to redo the crosslide lead screw and a new nut. I have desided to keep it.
Thanks
CH.
 

COMachinist

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#25
Once you know the numbers you can search for deals. Always best to pull out the old ones and match them in case any mods were done and they're not standard.
I was lucky and found two matched pairs of 62x25 metric Timken roller bearings with cups (4 complete bearings) for $40 including shipping. Always good to have a spare set, especially at that price.
Hi are you saying that 62x25 metric bearing fits the Clausing 100mk3a/4800? What is the thickness of the metric bearing 62x25x?
Thanks
CH
 

GrayTech

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#26
Once you know the numbers you can search for deals. Always best to pull out the old ones and match them in case any mods were done and they're not standard.
I was lucky and found two matched pairs of 62x25 metric Timken roller bearings with cups (4 complete bearings) for $40 including shipping. Always good to have a spare set, especially at that price.
Hi are you saying that 62x25 metric bearing fits the Clausing 100mk3a/4800? What is the thickness of the metric bearing 62x25x?
Thanks
CH
No, that was just the size I needed for my mill. Sorry if it got confusing.

Sent from my H3123 using Tapatalk
 

COMachinist

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#27
Got them this should be pinned in the clausing lathe forum! Damn what an ordeal.
Ok both spindle cup are Timken 14274A
Forward next to chuck cone Timken 14137A
Rear next to gear train, Timken 14125A
These bearings are rated at 90 million revs there was no information on class or P rating. You can look at the specs, at cadtemkin.com I printed the spec sheet and cad drawing. They still make this bearing for clausing 100 mk3 lathes. These are nothing more than wheel bearings. What a let down you can get bearings and cups for under a 100.00. My oil change cost more than twice that on my outboard. Ultra presion bearings where no avalable during WWII when 99% of these lathes were made. Todays wheel bearings are better than any ting make during those years. They were good enough to defeat NAZI war machines. They should do for me.
Thanks to all who replied. Even the stray OT posters.
CH
 

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#28
Interesting - the rear cone is the same as on the Atlas at that position.

I put the basic information in a Sticky.
 

COMachinist

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#29
Interesting - the rear cone is the same as on the Atlas at that position.

I put the basic information in a Sticky.
I know it suprized me as well. The cups fit two differant size cones. The front inside diameter of the cone is 1.3750”. The id of the back cone is1.2500 and the width is the same as the front cone. Both cups same od and width.
Thanks for making this easy to find glad to be able to contribute.
CH
 

COMachinist

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#30
Ok here is the latest on bearings for these older lathes. Temkin is out of stock on the industrial precision bearings that would be the class 3, 0 the 00, 000 were never made in these sizes. Temkim has no plans to make a production run on these bearing again they are retired. The class 3s have if you can find NOS bearings some where, have +.0003 -0000 TIR the standard bearings in this size have .0015 TIR. I begged the regional sale manager to request a production run and no joy. Besides it will be at least a year from when they descide if ever to do an other production run. Before we will see them.
So people take damn good care of your clausing 100 spindel bearing there is no more. This the word from Temkin. I got 2 large company's looking for NOS 3’s or by gods grace 0. For my lathe right now. Mean while I guess something used or crap china made lathe. I’ll be making a decision on wheather to part the old girl or not. I’v got lots neat stuff for it like near metric change gears, steady rest, bull gear assbys, chucks, lots of taped drills, 2mt, 3mt and larger. Collet chuck. Ect.
Tell me what you think.
CH
 
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