Clausing 20" 22V-1

Thomcat316

Registered
Registered
Joined
Nov 11, 2018
Messages
9
New to me, and likely older than me, also.

295929


295930


I wanted to put a couple bits of information here so the Google Machine can find them, and also ask a question and see if anyone knows.

This beast is Ser. Nr. 503970, with 2215 power downfeed. 220V 3PH, magnetic starter, rotary switch with two forward speeds and one reverse, all variable through a Reeves Drive, which seems to work OK. It was in a production machine shop for a long time, and then was purchased by the auto shop next door when the machine shop retired. I bought it from my mechanic when he retired, and am just getting into cleaning it and making it newer again after three years sitting in the back of my shop.

Step one was getting power to it. Back In The Day™ it was apparently normal for 3PH magnetic starters to have only two heaters/overloads; news to me, but it runs.
Step two will be getting new belts on it, and here's the info I have/need - the Reeves belt is a 1930V425, the triple drive belts are 4L260, and the five-rib poly-v belt for the down feed is....? Anyone know this one from experience? According to the manual for the 2215, it's Clausing P/N 051-030, which I can't find a cross reference for. After I have all the belts in hand, off come the existing ones and...
Step three will be to clean ca. 35 lbs. of dust, brake rotor dust, train dust, oil & dust, fuzzy stuff, and other dirt off this poor thing. I am thinking that odorless kerosene would be the best cleaner that won't attack components and will leave a light film behind to start the next dust collection. I'm all ears if there are other suggestions - I was planning on making a kiddie pool for the drill press, dumping a couple gallons of kerosene in it, cycling it back through a filter and hose, and rinsing and brushing the whole monster until it's looking like a machine again. Again, all ears for suggestions that make more sense.

Now I have four drill presses....and a friend who wants me to take his ca. 1950 Walker-Turner. How does this happen??
 
now that's what I call a drill press!

As for cleaning, if it's that thoroughly coated I'd suggest at least taking the Reeves drive, power feed and quill off. Otherwise you risk washing grit and abrasives into places you really don't want them. Give you a chance to clean and grease/ oil and gears or bearings that need it too.
 
Man we had those things at Eaton years ago when I started. They were long gone before I retired


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
now that's what I call a drill press!

As for cleaning, if it's that thoroughly coated I'd suggest at least taking the Reeves drive, power feed and quill off. Otherwise you risk washing grit and abrasives into places you really don't want them. Give you a chance to clean and grease/ oil and gears or bearings that need it too.

It's a beast, but running OK for $500 is a workable proposition for me. The other two in the shop are both Rockwell-Delta, a 15" bench in great shape, and a 14" floorstanding in dire need of a full restoration.

I had really hoped to not do any disassembly before I got the dirt off, mostly because it travels with me everywhere I go, and I'm not kidding about the amount. I guess it's time to find out how difficult it is to get a Reeves drive out. As for the kerosene, does that sound like the best route, or should I use WD-40 or something else? I'm not looking for cosmetic improvement at this point, so stripping it all the way down for a pressure wash and a repaint isn't on the list, either - I just want to be able to walk by without growing stripes.
 
$500 is a great price. That power downfeed will be a boon with larger drills.

kerosene or diesel should work fine, simple green would work too. Avoid purple power or anything like that as it'll eat the paint.

If you're careful you can potentially block off or seal any areas you don't want to get grit it, then be cautious about where and how much you spray the cleaner. No great experience with machine tools as I typically take them to pieces to clean, but on bikes spray washing is about the best way to kill bearings as it forces dirt into places you don't want it.
 
I'm ludicrously lucky - I asked my wife if I could have a(nother) drill press; she asked what it could do that the existing three couldn't, asked if it needed major repair, and asked how much. Then said yes. I thought $500 was fair, and in the meantime have seen that I was right about that.

I'll do kerosene - this is an enclosed space, and I don't want to think about how noxious diesel would be. IIRC unscented kerosene is pretty innocuous? I also think I can keep grit out of bearings, and out of the motor, and if I'm wrong I can always disassemble the beast. I guess I'll start with the dirty shopvac, then a sprayer and a brush, with flood cleaning last for areas that won't drain through the quill.

Pressure washing is reserved for when I am going to be fully disassembling and repainting, something on the order of a full restoration. I tend to not do that much, as cosmetics are not the top of the priority list for me. Maybe next time I move shop I'll take everything down for a restoration-level cleaning and rebuild. For now I have to get the DP done, the mill moved in, and get started on the suspension for the new trailer.
 
sounds like a keeper - both the drill press and the wife :)

I'm not a huge fan of the smell of kerosene. I use it as a cutting fluid on alu and I much prefer WD40 smell wise, but prefer kerosene price wise! As long as you can get some airflow you should be ok. I agree with removing as much of the muck as you can mechanically - vacuum, scraping it out, brushing it etc first because the moment you add a liquid to that it's going to turn into a mess. Liquids are good for getting that last bit out and cleaning surfaces. As long as all the bearings and the like work fine, I wouldn't bother with a full on tear down. It would be worth dropping and regreasing the quill, checking the spindle and motor bearings for feel, and adding oil or grease to wherever there should be some (table elevation mechanism?), but a full on resto isn't going to get you much more than that other than something that looks nicer.
 
Back
Top