Clausing 8520 chatter

[machPete99]

I have a similar geometry cutter but 1" diameter and that can push my Rockwell mill to the limit.

You might want to look at getting one of those 2" diameter 45 degree style cutters (SEHT43) as their geometry is easier on the machine, although they can take light cuts only. Like this one that I happen to have:

Glacern Machine Tools - FM45 Facemills

Glacern Machine Tools manufacturers CNC Machine Vises, Precision Tool Holders, and Indexable Milling Cutters for vertical and horizontal cnc milling machines.

glacern.com

Also make sure all ways on your machine are locked down, except for the axis you are moving.

 

[ConValSam]

@woodchucker makes good points about basic machine setup.

And even if he thinks a 2in face mill isn't too much for an 8520, I would argue it's no place to start.

With steel, begin with light cuts and a cutter that will fit in a 1/2 collet and learn what you and your machine can do. Once you have more experience and a feel for what works, maybe take another shot with the big face mill.

Mostly have fun making stuff with what you'll come to appreciate is a great home shop milling machine.

 

[woodchucker]

I make that argument, because I see on youtube guys with smaller machines using a 2" cutter. I may be wrong. But since he already bought it, lets figure out the other parameters first. I certainly didn't like the looks of the gib screws on the right compared to the left. There were too many things that a new user may not fully appreciate yet.

 

[Defender92]

Well there it is. How do you put oil in these?? Seriously, this can’t be how they are oiled? With a tiny oil bott




And all screws on my X axis are snug. I’m not sure why the right side screws are further out.



Good eye woodchucker!

As I’m typing this response I decided to try and tighten the right side more. It wasn’t sung apparently! Lots more to screw in. I’m currently readjusting my gibs. Adding spindle oil too because the screws are bone dry. They must have been in that extended position for a while because I thought they were touching the gib.​

How tight should the gibs be? I tightened them where it’s slightly difficult on the outer limits of the table but it’s smooth and easy in the middle. I’m assuming my ways are somewhat wore out? Hopefully it’s not a big deal.

Here’s some more random photos of my 8520…

 

[woodchucker]

You want them so there is just a slight amount of drag. I opt for just a little lighter and use my lock to give tension when I have chatter or climb milling. Like you my table tightens toward the extremes, making it hard to turn, but easier in the middle.

You need to get an OILER, those bottles will not inject oil properly. Use WAY oil for all sliding parts.
Something like this: NEW GOLDENROD 630 STEEL 20OZ OIL CAN PUMP OILER STRAIGHT SPOUT USA 6287056 do an ebay search.
That kind of tip will oil the gitz ball oilers.

 

[Defender92]

You want them so there is just a slight amount of drag. I opt for just a little lighter and use my lock to give tension when I have chatter or climb milling. Like you my table tightens toward the extremes, making it hard to turn, but easier in the middle.

You need to get an OILER, those bottles will not inject oil properly. Use WAY oil for all sliding parts.
Something like this: NEW GOLDENROD 630 STEEL 20OZ OIL CAN PUMP OILER STRAIGHT SPOUT USA 6287056 do an ebay search.
That kind of tip will oil the gitz ball oilers.

thanks woodchucker.

I just ordered an oiler.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

try finding ground alu specific inserts for that face mill. I have an SEKT 45deg style facemill for my 6x26 (similar mill to yours) and it is amazing in alu and steel with alu specific inserts, but molded steel specific inserts chatter like crazy. Pretty much like what you have experienced.