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Clausing/Colchester 11" (Colchester Bantam 2000)

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tr4252

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Outstanding job on the wipers! Have you heard of a Devcon product called Flexane? It's a 2 part urethane RTV which is available in 80 and 94 durometer densities, in addition to an additive they also sell which will make the material more flexible.

Sending PM.

Tom
 

Cheeseking

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To those Colchester owners still interested in a pair of these V wipers shoot me a PM

I made a set last weekend and they came out pretty decent. Used no mold release so as to not contaminate the cure. Seem a bit stronger but I wish they were a tad harder.
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drs23

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Those turned out nicely. Cudos on a very nice job!
 

brightonmike

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Hi Guys

I have a Clausing/Colcheter 12" (Colchester Colt) very similar in appearance to the Bantam 13" swing. I PMed Cheeseking for my way wipers, but I have another question that I'm hoping Bantam owners that have had theirs apart can help with. I can't seem to figure out any way to 0 out my crosfeed or compound dials for reference. The crosfeed has a small thumbwheel that the manual says should be loosened and retightened after adjustment but it seems not to do anything. I have removed the handwheels and can see that they both have a keyway that slides onto a key on the leadscrew, and also have a key that slides into a keyway on the dial cartridge, so everything moves together. But no way to slide the cartridge independently to zero the dial. I have corresponded with Tony Griffiths at lathes.co.uk and his response was that this type of dial normally has a friction setting with a spring and ball hidden between the inside and outside sections - but instead it might have some sort of lock that has been engaged. It should, certainly, be able to zero. What am I missing?
 

valleyboy101

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Beautiful lathe Guy,
You say you cleaned it up - that's an understatement, it looks pretty much show room condition. It'll be a lifer for sure.
Michael
 

Cheeseking

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LOL! Machine porn...
I just got done cleaning her up after a job and couldn't resist snapping a few before messing it up again.
Btw I never had a positive thing to say about chuck guards but have to say the one I added has worked out really well last couple yrs. Keeps most of the chips semi contained and more importantly oil spray off the chuck when using lube. Flips up easy and locks quick at varoius heights to avoid TP lever.
Work light was another good add. Im friggin blind so never enough light.
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fogleew

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Hello all. My son and I just purchased a Clausing Colchester 11 (Colchester bantam 1600 mk2). We have just set it up in the garage using a rotary converter to power the 3 phase motor. Everything appears to be working so we are trying to determine the best setup. First question is how best to mount to the floor. Our initial plan is to raise the unit 8 inches for better access using 2 Short I beams w cross support. We have not decided how best to incorporate leveling features and if we need it hard mounted to the floor. Any recommendations?

Other items while we work the installation.
1 best way to clean off all the old grime. Kerosene?
2 recommendation for lighting.
3 best way to determine if ways are in good shape and not worn.
4 best source for gear train parts. We have excess slop on thread gear bushing.

any help appreciated.
 
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fogleew

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Pictures of our lathe as we moved into garage. Covered in grease and dirt. The worn bushing that holds the middle gears for thread drive under the side cover.

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Cheeseking

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Congrats on the new to you machine!
Parts are still available thru Clausing but grab your ankle$

Phone: (800) 323-0972
Fax: (269) 342-7888
email: info@clausingsc.com

You could also try Frank @ FDK3
http://fdk3co.com/
If he doesnt have it I'm sure will lay out your options on where to get it.
 

Cheeseking

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As far as cleaning it up, it depends to what degree you plan to take it. I would at minimum change the headstock oil and clean up the ways and the gear train for the feed.
Fine Scotch brite pads work well but go easy. It is abrasive after all so you don't want to go overboard . Just enough to remove any light rust or tarnishing. I used LPS with the pads to aid cutting action and reduce dusting. Thoroughly clean the abrasive grit afterwards.
For me "Cleaning it up" ended up taking a good 4-6 months of painstaking work. Every part with the exception of the headstock internals worked over with chemicals ranging from wd40, LPS, simple green, wire brushes, scotch brite, soap and hot water, dental picks, stones, rags, towels you name it. In the end I feel it was worth the effort.
You may or may not want to take it to that extreme. Btw I see you got a steady rest too! Nice bonus since many seem to be missing.
 

samthedog

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The clean up process is long. I have used window washing fluid and WD40 mostly as it does not discolour the paint of the machine.

In the clean up, make sure you clean under the saddle, the leadscrews and bronze nuts, drain and replace all oil, and upgrade to new way wipers. Anywhere 2 surfaces slide, get in there and clean it up properly with window washing fluid, then oil it up. You will be surprised how much smoother everything will function.

Also, make sure to grease any areas that require it. You may need to disassemble before doing this as grease can harden over time and this decreases the lubrication properties significantly.

There are a number of posts if you do a search on how to check headstock alignment and wear on the ways. The good news is that your lathe has hardened ways so providing the previous owner did the minimum cleaning and oiling, I would expect the accuracy to be OK. I have a 48 year old Chipmaster that was used quite a bit but is still within .01 mm or better as it was regularly oiled. A visual inspection of the ways near the chuck should give you an indication of the wear.

Paul.
 

Cheeseking

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Fog.
Couple more suggestions.
As far as raising the machine 8" boy that seems like a lot. I suppose its personal preference and how tall you are. Im 5-11" and with just std leveling mounts it puts the carriage hand-wheel crank at perfect level. To me that means handle at BDC/6 oclock and my arm down with only slight bend in elbow.
The PO of mine was 6-6" and in fact he used i beams just like you are contemplating.
Heres the feet I used.
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As far as greasing anything - oh my just don't.
Once you do the heavy lifting cleaning up all the gunk and mis guided grease application, all you need is oil and oil and more (way) oil and rags. Mobil Vactra is a cheap, effective and available product. Wipe down and re oil after every use. Your post inspired me to remove the end cover and do some routine wiping and oiling. :)
It might not look like it but believe it or not I actually USE my machine quite a bit but am very thorough cleaning it afterwards.

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Also if you need wipers for the v-ways I can possibly help. See earlier posts in this thread.

Lighting suggestions?
Well I can't speak for others but to me the older I get there can never be enough! How high is your ceiling where you will work?? I mounted a 4' florescent fixture directly above that goes on with the shop lights + a machine mounted incandescent task light. Still find myself with a sm flashlight peeking down bores!
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brightonmike

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Just received and installed my way wipers from cheeseking. They look and work great. Would recommend to anyone needing to replace yours. Thanks CK!
 
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horace

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hello everybody,sorry for being away so long. I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion . Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday. Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V. 2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. ph 3 hp. slow speed motor, I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph I prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed 3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated
 

samthedog

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As far as greasing anything - oh my just don't.
Once you do the heavy lifting cleaning up all the gunk and mis guided grease application, all you need is oil and oil and more (way) oil and rags. Mobil Vactra is a cheap, effective and available product.
Some things may need greasing depending on the age of the lathe. For example, the motor spindle, matrix clutch and oil barrier in the headstock. You shouldn't use grease anywhere else - although I do on the change gears on my chipmaster. Since they are protected in the end cover and never see swarf, I use a Molygrease as it sticks like poop to a blanket and I know it won't run off.

Paul.
 

Cheeseking

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Horace, I would try to stay as close to original as possible. 2 Hp is plenty of power on this machine. I found a great replacement motor from Automation Direct for about $200
and swapped mine out earlier this year.
2hp 240v 3P TEFC. 1750 rpm. Cast iron frame. 145T frame size.
Couple mods I needed to do were flip the shaft and conduit box orientation and trim the fan cover back a little. Ymmv depending on the vagaries of the sheet metal work and electrical layout on your specific machine. Looking back, if I would have known I needed to dis-assemble the new motor to make it work, I could have just opened the old motor and replaced the armature bearings as those were causing the noise prompting motor change in the first place! Oh well.
 

Clem

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hello everybody,sorry for being away so long. I've been very busy in refurbishing home for my son's wedding occasion . Now the wedding is over it was last Sunday. Now I'm free again,I'm happy to say that very lately I purchased a Colchester Bantam 2000 mk 2. This week I started inspecting it and found out that an inverter cannot be fitted to the motor because it is a 415V. 2 speed.So now I'm looking for suggestions.I wish to keep it as close to original as possible as possible.One suggestion is to fit a s. ph 3 hp. slow speed motor, I don't like it, because I'll be loosing half the speeds and may be the turning strength be weakened. If I go s.ph I prefer a 2 speed motor, or else a 3 ph high speed 3 hp motor with an inverter.Any suggestions or any help would be highly appreciated
Hello. I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor. I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter. I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat. At the moment, my max. speed is 990rpm. I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque. However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed. My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed. I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm. Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that. I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far. If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date. There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat. I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice. Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures. Enjoy.

I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all).
 

Clem

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View attachment Screw Cutting Gearbox Woes.pdf
Hello All,

I hope somebody can help me with my question on a lovely lathe I've just got.

I've just acquired a Colchester Mk. 2 Bantam 2000 and have got it up and running and have even taken a quick facing test cut with it and it all seems OK.

However, I am having some difficulty with trying to change the feed rate. It seems that, whatever combination of the screw cutting gearbox levers I engage, the speed of the feed shaft doesn't change and nor does that of the leadscrew (I've tried to explain this clearer in the attached). Both shafts turn and transmit power OK and the levers feel like they're engaging properly (I get that having-to-wiggle-the-spindle-to-fully-engage-the-levers feeling when I'm engaging them) so I don't think anything's broken. I feel like I'm missing some crucial step but don't know what. Can anybody offer any advice, please?

Thanks and have a nice Christmas all,

Clem.
 

Cheeseking

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Clem. Could a key be sheared and power is being transmitted only via friction? Theres a 1/8" dia shear pin on the headstock gear that drives the input to the feed gearbox. Maybe check that pin.
 

Cheeseking

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I almost finished installing latest upgrade on90cd68fd117290bac829aeb0fc59c73b.jpgfd15032be2f3254823d5c9158e024735.jpg7b13a91d43f19e0d44f58bf2e2d4b83e.jpg71d94114a6d01397e446f7cbc849a247.jpg my bantam today. Santa brought me a DroPro magnetic scale DRO couple weeks ago.
Had to mount the cross slide axis scale unconventionally so as to maintain access to the gib adj screws and compound lock bolts.

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Clem

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Clem. Could a key be sheared and power is being transmitted only via friction? Theres a 1/8" dia shear pin on the headstock gear that drives the input to the feed gearbox. Maybe check that pin.
Hello,
Thank you very much for replying so quickly. I'll check this but I'm pretty sure it's ok. When I take the cover off the back and turn the headstock spindle by hand I can see the input to feed gearbox turning. I fear I may have to look inside the gearbox itself but I'm not sure how I do this. Any advice gratefully received!
Thanks.
 

srosefx

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Hello. I've also just bought a Bantam 2000 Mk2., which has a 3kW two speed 415V three phase motor. I though I might swap in a new, dual voltage, lower power motor but, after a bit of reading on the internet and a lot of talking to people, I decided to try just hooking it up to a 2.2kW (I think) VFB inverter. I wired it up to the low-speed windings on the motor and it seems to work a treat. At the moment, my max. speed is 990rpm. I tried hooking the inverter up to the high speed windings (let's call them terminals 4, 5 and 6), leaving terminals 1, 2 and 3 unconnected and, although it did run up to full speed, it was low on torque. However, when I turned the frequency down on the inverter, it had more torque although, obviously, at lower speed. My next thing is to try hooking the inverter up to terminals 4, 5 and 6 and connecting terminals 1, 2 and 3 together, to see if that works any better for the high speed. I'm going to stay on the low speed windings for now, as I rarely need to go above 990rpm. Obviously, I won't be getting the full 3kW of power but I doubt I'll notice that. I'm running the inverter off a 240V, single phase supply through a 13A plug with no problems so far. If necessary, I will swap in a proper dual voltage motor at a later date. There's quite a bit of stuff about this on the internet and, if you're in the UK, I can let you know who I bought the inverters off as he's a very helpful man: with his advice, I have managed to wire the original apron control lever and also the emergency footbrake into the inverter and they work a treat. I have also managed to wire my coolant pump into another inverter, again with his advice. Please get in touch if you want any more information: I've got a few crude wiring sketches that I did to get it all wired in, and some pictures. Enjoy.

I have a question of my own about changing feed rates on this machine but I think I'd better post it somewhere else in this forum (I've never used a forum for anything before, so am a bit new to it all).
i have a new thread requesting some help that you may be able to answer.
I would appreciate your input. thanks
Simon
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php/30761-Colchester-Bantam-2000-Motor-Problems?p=263614&posted=1#post263614
 

zmotorsports

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I almost finished installing latest upgrade on90cd68fd117290bac829aeb0fc59c73b.jpgfd15032be2f3254823d5c9158e024735.jpg7b13a91d43f19e0d44f58bf2e2d4b83e.jpg71d94114a6d01397e446f7cbc849a247.jpg my bantam today. Santa brought me a DroPro magnetic scale DRO couple weeks ago.
Had to mount the cross slide axis scale unconventionally so as to maintain access to the gib adj screws and compound lock bolts.

Nice. I love your mill and lathe setup. I drool a little bit every time I see it.

Keep the pics of them coming.

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sakurama

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I just joined up to this site after finding this thread which has more photos of the Clausing Colchester 11" than anywhere else on the web I think including Tony's Lathes UK site which actually uses a photo of my lathe for the 11". Anyway, there's some very nice lathes here and I appreciate the photos of the different accessories. I have pretty much everything for my lathe save the taper attachment which I suspect will be something I will search forever. The steadies I found in the UK along with the metric change gears. I have fitted a VFD and a DRO and I'll try to dig up some photos of them if anyone's interested. Here's a shot of my lathe with the Rockwell mill.

i-P8xGwR9-X2.jpg

And there's a very extensive thread on the building of my garage shop here: Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

Cheeseking if you're still making those wipers I'd love to get a set - feel free to PM me or reply here.

Thanks for the info and photos.

Gregor
 

Cheeseking

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Hey Gregor welcome aboard! Love seeing other folks with the baby 11" Colchester. Looks like you do some great work in your shop. I'd be curious to see how you mounted the DRO scale on the cross slide. I noodled quite awhile to figure out a mounting method for mine that did not block the compound lock screws. You probably discovered the Bantam is a bit unique from most other lathes in that the lock screws are buried in the cross slide rather than exposed up top. Mounting in the traditional fashion like DRO Pros shows would obscure the RH compound lock screw. It could be left loose but that didn't seem wise. I finally resorted to a custom SS top plate to mount the scale and a bunch of custom machined brackets for the read head to get it done. I have been happy with how it works so far but boy was it a project. Fortunately I have access to sheet metal fabrication equipment at work.
Oh and yes, I still have the mold for the V-wipers. One of these days I need to break out the urethane and make up a few sets to get out to fellow Bantam owners. I shipped 4-5 sets over the years and recently promised someone on here (I forget who now) a set but still have not done it. Lazy me.
 

Cheeseking

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Some pics of the DRO mounting. Made several iterations of the top plate till I got one to fit perfect. This is one if the trial ones
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448753631.576142.jpg

Finished install.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448753701.274737.jpg
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Wrench access
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448753807.657753.jpg
 

sakurama

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I wanted my DRO to be out of the way and not interfere with any future mods or functionality so I ended up exchanging the slide that came with the DRO for a "slim" unit that I could hide in the notch of the saddle. This has worked out very well for the past 6 years and I can't imagine using a lathe without a DRO (or a mill for that matter).

P1060279-XL.jpg

The scale is protected by a piece of aluminum angle and covers the full range of the cross slide.

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P1060283-X3.jpg

20151129-untitled-12-XL.jpg

The DRO was put on a cut and rewelded arm that also holds the remote display/control for the VFD so that I can change the speed easily as I'm cutting. The best advantage of the VFD is the ability to just put the machine into reverse while threading metric. Speaking of which...

20151129-untitled-11-XL.jpg

Since most of my work is on European motorcycles being able to thread metric was an essentially component. It took me about a year to find a 127 change gear but eventually I found that, the rest of the gears to make a complete set, a steady and a follow steady, a 5C collet changer and a number of other small parts.

20151129-untitled-7-XL.jpg

I tried to find the metric threading plate for years and finally gave up and made one myself (with a note to not disengage the half-nut) and had it printed in a style that matched the original. I'd be happy to share the file if anyone else should want to get one printed.

2015-02-28%2012-14-26-XL.jpg

Lastly was a tool holder holder that I made for the AXA holders and for metric threading I made a flip up lay down insert holder that allows me to just reverse the lathe while threading metric without having to back off the crossfeed. Between that and the VFD allowing me to just reverse the lathe metric threading is about as easy as imperial.

Hope that the photos help others with the same lathe.

Gregor
 

Badge171

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Gregor
I too have the same lathe. Looking at your pictures , your oil site glass looks filled . Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly , or possibly I'm running my machine a lot lower in level than it should be? Any help appreciated.
Frank
 

Cheeseking

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Yep thats pretty much the same place I put the read head as well. For reversing I simply pull up on the lever and it reverses instantly although he phase converter definitely shrugs a bit. I take it you are running single phase? Regardless a VFD is nice for infinite speeds that you can change while the machine is running. Badge I noticed the same thing. Hard to tell if its either totally empty or way overfilled. I believe it's supposed to be filled to the center dot. Mine might be a touch over filled.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448836904.805150.jpg
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Cheeseking

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Hmm Interesting. Im at Menards picking up some xmas supply's and noticed this
Tellus 32 oil. Think it might be close enough to 27???
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1448841038.251013.jpg
 
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