Cleaning New Pm932..how Far To Go?

Hozzie,

Thanks - I ended up going with the 1236 and haven't regretted it. Just got my DRO installed last week but been making some chips along the way. Now with the DRO installed I will be moving it into its final location in the shop this weekend.

I have also been happy with the 932 - it's my first mill but i think it will work great for me.

Congratulations on the 1440! I'm sure you will be love it.
 
Your pictures make an excellent argument for at least taking the table and saddle off.

L
 
Just got a 932 and ive been seriously dreading taking this thing apart to clean it...im pretty mechanically inclined so no issue with that part but still, its an expensive piece of equipment i dont want to render useless before i even get to...your pics help clear some of the air as to what id be looking at when the time comes (or i ever get a day off work)...
 
Just got a 932 and ive been seriously dreading taking this thing apart to clean it...im pretty mechanically inclined so no issue with that part but still, its an expensive piece of equipment i dont want to render useless before i even get to...your pics help clear some of the air as to what id be looking at when the time comes (or i ever get a day off work)...

I have not owned a 932, but I had a similar mill (9x40) from a different vendor.

After having owned several machine tools that were built in China, I am now of the opinion that anyone who is capable of even a minor tear-down before putting the machine into service will end up with a much more satisfying experience with their new toy. In the case of a medium-sized bench mill I would suggest taking the table and saddle off at the very least. And clean, inspect, and deburr/stone anything suspect. This would include all bearing surfaces, leadscrews, gibbs, and acme nuts. I even cleaned the bearings for the leadscrews and put a better quality oil in them. Check your gibbs for flatness and stone them to remove any burrs and/or rough surfaces on the face that slides against the table or saddle.

For those who are crazy like me, you can even stone the edges of the leadscrews to help prevent them from cutting or damaging the acme nuts.

I would not suggest taking the head and z-axis saddle off unless you know what you are doing and/or have someone who can help. On mine I just kept putting oil on the top of the saddle and running the head up and down until the oil coming out the bottom was clean.

Enjoy your new toy...err...mill. :)
 
This looks to be my project for today, cleaning the PM932... Thanks for the pics!

My main question is, once clean, what should I lube the lead screws and other moving parts with?

I was thinking of maybe anti-seize, Zink or copper? or even cam break in paste "Molybdenum Disulfide"

I was thinking a paste would be better since it would stay in place for the long term, when compared to a gel or an oil.
 
This looks to be my project for today, cleaning the PM932... Thanks for the pics!

My main question is, once clean, what should I lube the lead screws and other moving parts with?

I was thinking of maybe anti-seize, Zink or copper? or even cam break in paste "Molybdenum Disulfide"

I was thinking a paste would be better since it would stay in place for the long term, when compared to a gel or an oil.

I think I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on mine for the screw. Ways of course got way oil.
 
I use good old turtle wax paste on all my ways and air float tables on my other equipment, then use as little oil as possible, I have found this keeps rust at bay in this humid area, and will not catch as much air borne grit.
 
I think I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease on mine for the screw. Ways of course got way oil.
Grease is not a good idea on exposed parts. Grease will catch and hold chips and grit, which will wear the parts quickly and badly.
 
Back
Top