[4]

Colchester 1965 Roundhead Lathe Restoration Project

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Thanks neighbor for the heads up,yep my half nut has some ware to it.What's your game plan for your lathe?
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Afternoon guys,well I have finally started taking the spindle head apart which I was not planning on that but really had no choice.In doing so I have hit a snag with alittle bit of a setback.I have destroyed one of my roller bearings for the reverse shaft.Taking all the shafts out I found roller bearings on each one but on the reverse shaft which was at the bottom of the spindle head was a small pin that I just did not see it cause it was up in the housing.My manual did not show any roller bearing but they were easy to see and take out.A fellow sent me a manual that contain the bearings w/parts numbers and it also showed the very small pin that took out the roller bearing.Guys the pin was on the bottom which I never rotated the shaft,if I would have I would remove it.But it being on the bottome,I took a brass punch and started to drive the reverse shaft and reverse housing out of the spindle head.In which I stop for a minute to look at it cause the housing was coming out more than what the shaft was coming out of the housing if that makes sense.Anyway after getting the housing out along with the shaft and a set of roller bearings is when I notice that the needle bearings were coming out.Thanks to Richard who sent me a manual that contain all the roller bearings,parts numbers and size I can locate them from a bearing company.I price one at Clausing which I guess was not to bad at 23.00 ea then at another place price at 7.00ea.So thanks to me not paying attention,I am going to come up with a list and try to replace all the roller bearings in the headstock of this 1965 lathe.Guys the reason I went alittle into detail so that someone will not make the same mistake that I did.In one of the pics you can see the harden pin which is about 1/8 sticking out.So till I order the bearing I am working on the spindle head using alittle bondo to smooth it out some cause of someone back in 1965 took and angle grinder when crazy on the headstock.Enjoy the pics and thanks for looking,its just a speed bump on my restoration project

DSC02777.JPG DSC02776.JPG DSC02774.JPG DSC02773.JPG DSC02772.JPG
 
Last edited:

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Good afternoon guys,well its been awhile since my last update.Over the last few weeks I have been trying to track down roller bearings,decide if I really want to replace the roller bearings(not the spindle) which they look good but they are 1965.And try to find some flange type bronze bushings which I have not found any with a 9/16 ID x 13/16 OD so making some will be new to me.But this weekend I just concentrated on doing the electrical and doing it correctly which I won't know till I give it a try.All I have left on it is putting on a pigtail for 3 phase and plugging into the home DSC02819.JPG made rotary phase converter.Dang I hope this works,I bet I made a dozen or so trips to HD and to the hardware store just to get to this point.I went alittle cheap on the electrical buying the plastic conduit and plastic fittings.My little shop is all residential so no fork lifts,no one but me so it should be safe.Anyway maybe Monday or so I will pick up some material for the pigtail and just want to try out the motor and the different speeds.I have no ideal if this thing has work in the past other than I was told it was a working lathe.Guys here just afew pics of the lathe so far,and if all goes well maybe some more for next weekend.I'm off the week of Thanksgiving so I hope to really make some progress,if all goes well.This has been one challenge after another,here a link to my problems been dealing with http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/operating-lever-on-colchester-roundhead.39854/
Guys before I exit I want to give Kiwi and Chandler a big thank you,I was loss trying to figure out the linkage on this lathe and the electrical.Without their input taking the time to post pics in another post that I started about the linkage/brake I would not have been able to get to this point so thanks to them and other members who have been helping along the way.Thanks guys and enjoy the pics----kroll DSC02821.JPG DSC02820.JPG
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Good morning,hope all staying dry/warm.Well yesterday was a good day for me.I think I finally finish(not completely) getting my apron back together without left over parts.(amazing) well I do have couple bushing to replace which I did order them.9/16 ID x 11/16 OD.I still have the wormbox to tidy up installing part #7649 which does not show up in the parts list.But it has something to do with power feed.I just went ahead and put it all together to remove some more of the loose parts laying around.I will have to take some of it back apart when other bushing come in.Anyway I am also close to applying power to the motor for the first time,maybe this week if my cord cap come in.Guys thanks for looking and if you spot something that don't look right or please offer some advice,please do thanks for looking

DSC02832.JPG DSC02833.JPG DSC02834.JPG
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
Hi Kroll, your lathe is the Mk 1-1/2, it has the early headstock with the later apron, single contol for sliding/surfacing. My Colchester Student is the earlier apron with two slots for sliding surfacing. My my she is looking GOOD! She will not let you down, they are excellent workhorses.
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Thank you hermetic,I really did not know what I have.I been told that its possible a student,but now I know what to look for when it comes to parts.Thank you for that information and the kind words
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Good afternoon,finally it has cool down alittle to where a person needs a sweat shirt.Over last few days I have been working on getting the spindle head back together.Like some of the other sections I have had to take it back apart to put on other parts but I am getting better at it.And I have also started taking the saddle apart and never notice that this saddle has a push button oil pump which send oil over to the channel for the ways.Which when I first took it apart it was nasty so I am hoping that the pump works but not much to it.As you know I had order an oil seal from Clausing(25.00) which the old one was all beat up,why I just don't know,well till I started putting the shaft back together.Looking at the pics on the end of the shaft is a pin that help keeps the gear from spinning.It can't come out but it can move into the oil seal which is what beat up the oil seal.(See pic of the old seal)So I need to figure out how that should work.The pin that is in there now is made of brass and not a steel dowel so maybe that needs to be change.If you have any information on this pin please let me know.Here's afew pics of what I have been working on just to give us members something to look at besides reading.Thanks guys for answering all my other questions which has been a very big help---kroll

DSC02848.JPG DSC02849.JPG DSC02852.JPG DSC02850.JPG
 

adam3999

Newbie
Registered
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
8
Kroll, that is a sacrificial pin intended to break if you do something silly like power feed the carriage into the chuck. Some joker replaced mine with a hardened pin at one point, and it is likely what helped take 7 teeth out of a very hard to replace cross-slide wormwheel. Since you have a Mk 1.5, you should also have another safety mechanism built into the power feed rod where it meets the gearbox. There are two spring loaded bearing balls riding inside a collar that acts as a clutch. I would inspect it to ensure the two balls can move freely, and that the hole they are recessed into has not become egg shaped. Mine was, and I ended up drilling it out from 1/4" to 9/32". I have 248 balls of the package of 250 left if you need some =).

BTW, do you by chance have a photo of the adjustment block under the left side of the headstock? This is the part that accepts two jacking cap screws used to align the headstock to the ways. Thanks.
 
Last edited:

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Dang,I am so glad that you reply to my question.I had no ideal and I would have replace it with a steel dowel,I will have to take alook at the power feed.Its all apart for now but I will have to check it out,had no ideal about the safety feature.248 balls,I was going to order some O-rings but did not need a hundred of them.Adam what is it about my lathe that makes it the MK 1.5,I have no ideal what I have I just thought it was a student?
Adam thank you so much for letting me know,dang that was a close call for me.
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Good afternoon guys,well its been awhile since my last post on any kind of progress which is very slow.Mainly due to having to locating some parts,making some parts,ordering some parts.It has been going very slow,due to other commitments.But I do get to work on it ever so often,I finally got my apron installed and I think I did it right.The cross slide is just setting on top,just for the pic till I make my next move.Now few days ago I did fire up the motor and switch speeds,so that works but no belts.Taking baby steps right now,thanks for looking.I am trying to make the pics smallerDSC02860.JPG DSC02861.JPG
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Guys I forgot to ask,to the right of where the dial goes is my push button oil pump for the cross slide.Before setting the cross slide on I would push the pump button and only alittle oil will come out but it shoots up couple inchs.Its just squirts only not a flow,it does work but should it squirt out a flow of oil?It is pretty neat,I like it
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Yes sir,I will take some pics this afternoon
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
DSC02867.JPG Guys Chandler ask if I could post some pics and while doing so I though I would ask the question why the cross slide nut is split?

DSC02867.JPG View attachment 118688 DSC02865.JPG DSC02864.JPG
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
It is to adjust the backlash, there should be an allen screw or two which pull the two halves of the nut slightly closer together , so thyat you can adjust out the wear. Mine does not have one because I have the Mk1 saddle and apron.
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Thanks Phil,I just could not figure out what it was for.I believe that I have the MK 1.5 which is what I been told.
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
Mk1.5, that is correct, it is a mk1 but uses the "safety saddle" also used on the Mk2.
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Phil I finally remember to check my crosslide nut and it has two carter keys but no allen screws.As I go through my lathe some things has been change due to previous owners,so I don't know what is right/wrong
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
can you post up a picture, I googled "carter keys" we in the UK call them "woodruff keys" and I am confused. ("nothing new there" they all shouted!)
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Yes,sir I can.My t-nut should be showing up today I hope

DSC02876.JPG DSC02875.JPG
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
Ah right, see what you mean, in the UK we call them split pins. I have no idea how that nut works, the ones I have seen are either split part way through with an adjustment screw that closes the split, or in two halves with two screws holding them together and providing the adjustment. I will have to pass you over to Colchester Mk 1.5 experts whilst I go and look in my manual, be right back!
Phil
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
Well I can see how it works.............sort of, but how to adjust it? The wedge appears to force or at least hold the two threaded bronze pieces apart, but there appears to be nothing to hold the wedge down. I see the shoulders that bear on the split pins to stop the wedge dropping out. But unless the sides of the wedge have serrations like step block clamps for milling, I don't know how you would go about adjusting it. I am msytified. I would take it to pieces, but then I do that with everything, and somtimes even get some of it back together AND working! I have checked both my Colchester Mk1/ 1.5 books and the 1800 and there is no nut of this type shown in the spares section, the 1800 one is sort of similar, but uses a split nut with a top wedge and adjusting scres. You could take one of the split pins out and see if there is a thread in the hole, Anyone else got any ideas?
Phil
 

Techie1961

Active Member
Registered
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
131
It looks like the wedge is displaced down into the gap of the two nuts by something above it on the slide like an adjusting screw of some sort. I would like to see the piece that it couples up to. I suspect that the cotter pins are there to hold it together for assembly and possibly keeps the nut that moves apart from rotating. They might deform as the nut moves away from the fixed portion.
 

hermetic

Active User
Registered
Joined
May 2, 2011
Messages
528
Yes Techie, I reckon you have got it, an adjusting screw in the cross slide which fits into the recess in the wedge and pushes it down, and would of course hold it down!
Phil
 

Kroll

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
1,189
Guys quick question,any knows what size belts the 13" takes?
 
[5] [7]
Top