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Colchester 1965 Roundhead Lathe Restoration Project

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Kroll

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Good afternoon guys,well after reading 1961 post and Phil concur with 1961 got me thinking about what was said and a light went off.So I went looking at couple different manuals that I had down loaded but nothing.So awhile back I order a manual from Tony in the UK which I keep it in the house only,well I be in the manual is a good drawing of the parts which includes just what 1961 was saying but it don't show the split pins but it shows the screw.As 1961 saying the split pins is what allows the small half that kinda floats as the screw is adjusted.The larger piece is held in place with a bolt that goes through the slide.That bolt also has a oil hole that allows the cross slide nut and screw to get oil.So thanks to the help here,I now understand.Thanks guys
 

Kroll

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DSC02887.JPG Well guys,I have made alittle progress on the apron and saddle and the cross slide,such as install it on the lathe.I am going to call this part of my journey finish,and I had no parts left over.Doing the taper attachment took alittle extra time cause had it going the wrong way.Everything slides so smooth with no wiggle,yep I know its not shiny but thats OK.Still waiting on my bushings for both shafts thats for the tail end.Thanks for looking

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Techie1961

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Great feeling huh. Nice to see if back together. Are you missing the handles for the wheels of the cross slide and auxiliary slide?
 

Kroll

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Yes sir,they were pretty bad which I had to cut one of them off then grind flush.I may try to drill it out so that my first project would be to make a set of matching handles
 

Techie1961

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One of my handles broke off when the lathe was moved about 3 years ago. I found it very difficult to use without it and replaced it as soon as I put the lathe back into service. Do you still have the old handle? I drilled out the end and put a split pin in to it and drove it back in.
 

hermetic

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hi Kroll, just looking at the pics of the cross slide, i can see the bolt that fixes the cross slide nut to the casting, but not the adjuster thar pushes the wedge down? Can you take a pic of the top of the cross slide with the compound slide off?
phil
 

Kroll

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I do have the one handle but it looks like the previous owner also tried to repair it but done more damage than good.
Phil I did pull it back out before I put the taper attachment back on just so I could see if I needed to adjust it.There is a small hole but it does not go all the way through to the screw and it was not threaded.On top of the cross slide there is not a hole at all to make that fine adjustment.I was wondering if maybe when you turn the screw either way that the two pieces expand or contract against the wedge piece which will tighten it I think.I may ask the question over on PM to see if someone has a better manual.Finding the hole that should have a screw in it per my manual from Tony got me thinking about some of the other problems that I found that did not look right.When I started putting this lathe back together after a good cleaning I found some of the bushings the oil holes were not drill all the way through so those bushing I don't see how they ever got oil.
 

Kroll

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Phil here is a pic,the bolt head that has the oil hole is what is bolted to the screw nut.The small end of the wedge is towards the taper attachment,the closes screw on top is off to one side.With that screw remove I can see the cross slide screw,I don't know what that hole is for and some of the others that you see a setscrew installed .

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Techie1961

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Some of the threaded holes at the end of the cross slide are probably for the rear mounted tool holder. In this photo of mine with all of the attachments on it that I have, you can it at the back end.
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Kroll

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Well my new bushing show up today,but I think there is a problem.Ones in the plastic are new,others are the originals, yep I check just to make sure I order the correct ones.
Well I be 1961,I see now what those holes are for.I was thinking that maybe the previous owner did some modifying

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hermetic

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Hi Kroll and Techie, I am trying to see an adjustment screw that pushes the wedge down, and to my way of thinking, it should be just to the rear of the large bolt with the lubricator that holds the nut to the cross slide. I can't see one on either picture of the cross slides. Have I got it wrong on how the wedge is adjusted? I am interested because I have two of these nuts to make, and I am thinking of making them to this design.
Phil
 

Kroll

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Guys I have ask the same question over on PM and the results are bout the same.How to adjust it,is the big question as of now still a question without answer.Really wanting to know or if this is the only lathe out there like this.If someone at the factory forgot to finish,guessing that the wedge should stay in the same place.But if there was a screw what would it push against to allow it to move either up/down.Phil here a link to my post on PM http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/colchester-cross-slide-screw-nut-adjust-314740/
 

Kroll

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Good morning well while watching the news I pull out my manual and look at the diagram again.Now I kinda understand how it should be installed and the openings that should be there to access the adjustments.My slide does not have the small openings and the screw nut does not have an adjustment if its original to the lathe.Though I would post this pic so that others could see if their cross slide has a hole to adjust their cross slide nut.
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Kroll

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Guys giving it some though I think that part #8630 the wedge the hole should not be tap but just a spot for the extended point of the setscrew will fit into.I think that the cross slide should have a tap hole that the setscrew will thread into and push down on the wedge #8630 or loosen up to allow the wedge raise up that will allow both halfs of the screw nut to come closer together.Does this make sense???
 

Techie1961

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Yes, that makes sense and is what I had envisioned it would do. I suppose it's possible that the slide is from an earlier version of the lathe. I don't recall what the wedge looks like and more photos would be good to see. If the wedge is perpendicular on one side and angled on the side that is in contact with the movable portion, that would confirm your observation. An indent would be a bad idea if the wedge is tapered on both sides since the center of the indent would move off the center of the adjusting screw.

Edit: I just looked at the past photos and it is perpendicular on the fixed face portion.
 

Kroll

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Yes sir it is only taper on one side,I wish I would have taken more photo's of it before installing it.I guess that having the Carter keys or split keys holding it together allowing it to expand and contract when adjusted.I agree,I bet your right that the cross slide has been change out.In all I think the mystery has been solved,Phil help this is helpful to you.Its been very helpful to me thanks to the membership
 

hermetic

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Thanks for that Kroll, it all makes sense now, could not understand why there was no adjustment hole in the top of the cross slide, I think the nut is from a later model, or even a different machine using the same thread. There are various different types of adjustable cross slide nut, and I even sat down and designed an automatic self adjusting one once, only to find someone else had beaten me to it! That design is a new one on me, but Tyrone said he had seen it before, and he is a lot more experienced than I am! He also mentioned the problem with wear in the middle of the thread (my student has some), but I got a new nut made by a local engineer (non adjustable), and it has virtually eliminated the backlash I had, but you can tell it is slightly looser in the middle of the slide travel. I have to make one for a Raglan milling machine table feed, and I think I will use Sir John Stevensons method of boring out the old thread and locktighting in a new one!
Phil
 

Techie1961

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I have a theory. The cross slide is the original for the lathe and the nut had worn out. They either replaced it with the wrong one or it was an upgrade from Colchester that wasn't installed correctly to accommodate the adjustable new nut.
 

Kiwi

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I had a similar problem with my lead screw half nut when I bought the lathe the lead screw turned but the carriage Didn't advance, when the handle was engaged thinking the halfnut was stuffed I just went about finding a replacement half nut on finding the price I decided to remove it to see if I can make a new one on the Myford. Well the half nut proved to be for another model lathe, the nut itself is in good nick but the drive pin that sits in the scroll is in the wrong position. A job came in it all had to go back together and to solve the problem the lower lever stop was removed the lever now has a large amount of travel but have the feel of it now and don't bring it all the way up when threading
So pull it down and take a look
 

Colchester lathe man

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Well, you're making progress.

And I don't know whether Clausing still has any nameplates or not. You'll just have to call and ask.
Hi, I am Frank with FDK 3 Company. I have new and used parts for Clausing Colchester roundhead and squared head lathes.

You can call me at 713-202-3551. I have alot of parts. I do have a used nameplate for your machine. I can send you a picture of it.

Frank
The Colchester lathe man
 

Kroll

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Good morning guys,thank you Frank(saving your #) been awhile since my last post haven't had hardly any extra time.So its just been hr here hr there kinda restoration.Put I have to say that since I have finish up installing the bushings for lead screw and power feed I am so close that I can taste success.So I though I would post a pic of the lathe in its new home.As far as I know,all that's left is finding the oil and figure out how to adjust the limit switch where I guess it rides on that square head bolt on the lever.Anyway sorry bout leaving my thread hanging.Oh I did fire up the motor without belts,tried out the high/low and forward/rev :)

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Techie1961

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A thing of beauty! It looks great and can't wait to see some more detail shots and hopefully a video of it running.
 

hermetic

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Sweet! I intend to give mine the once over when I get it into the new machine shop "area"
Phil
 

Kroll

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Thanks guys,found some 68 at Tractor Supply so I put it in today and install the lever badge with stainless steel drive screws.Working on the QCGB badge today while doing a clean up,paint repair a HF 3 in 1 shears,brake,roller machines for a very good person.Since I am having a long weekend Yahoooooo----kroll
 

Kroll

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Afternoon guys,well I kinda hit a snag today so taking alittle break from the lathe. Started working on another project for someone else since the snag is couple oil leaks in the spindle head.
What I did was started up the lathe and was taking it through the gears in low speed but I notice oil coming from behind the belt pulley which that is shaft B.I remember the o-ring which I was not sure if it stayed in place while installing that part the o-ring is on.Which was very tight,and on shaft A spindle side oil was coming from what called second shaft bearing which is also and o-ring leak.I pick up these o-rings from Ace which they look the same but maybe the OD of the o-ring was different.Guessing that while installing that part tapping it in the o-ring rolled out the groove which is very easy to do or it just cut the o-ring in to.Anyway I switch to the lowest speed in high and notice a tapping noise.So I took the cover off the head just to look,temptation is to start it up and watch but I may have oil all over my face.Anyway I know what needs to be done but any thoughts on those o-rings like a source?Taking a lathe break----kroll
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wa5cab

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If you know the Industry number (AKA Dash Number), you can get them from about a bzillion places. In your application, there would be no reason to use any material other than Buna-N pr Neoprene. An easy place to find a list of the Dash Numbers is McMaster. Search on O-ring and click on the first choice on the Type list that comes up. Their list only goes up to 1/4" material diameter but that should cover anything used on any lathe anyone here could afford the space to keep.
 

Kroll

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Guys I forgot to say that while its running its a steady flow,but when off it don't leak.Thanks Robert,I will need to figure out what I need.You not kidding about bzillion o-rings,while looking I see they have round and square o-rings.
Edit:I be,I found one of the old o-rings.It looks flat on top but that may be due to age.So how do I figure the size and put it into dash #'s?Its about 1" dia,maybe 32rd thick,just guessing

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