Collet holders?

I want to say I recall D1-4 size

So I was looking at this option for er40

.....https://www.ebay.com/itm/352560657304?ul_noapp=true

That was one of several lathes I was looking at when a good deal on a used Logan Powermatic came my way.

The D1-4 is only on the 11x29 lathe, it looks like 10x22/30 just uses 3 bolts to hold the chuck on. Reading the manual for changing the chuck it seems like that is kind of a hassle. Not being a standard thread type or established mounting system it doesn't making shopping easy.

It almost sounds like it uses a plain back chuck that gets bolted directly to the machine instead of using a backing plate.
 
That was one of several lathes I was looking at when a good deal on a used Logan Powermatic came my way.

The D1-4 is only on the 11x29 lathe, it looks like 10x22/30 just uses 3 bolts to hold the chuck on. Reading the manual for changing the chuck it seems like that is kind of a hassle. Not being a standard thread type or established mounting system it doesn't making shopping easy.

It almost sounds like it uses a plain back chuck that gets bolted directly to the machine instead of using a backing plate.
You understand that correctly, Aaron. Stick with the standard mounts, and away from the dumbed down ones.
 
The instructions for your lathe say the chuck has threaded studs that go through a flange on the headstock and there are nuts on the back of the flange holding it on. Does that look like the setup you have? You will probably need to adapt a mounting plate to fit your lathe to use a purchased chuck like the one I posted from Shars.

Another option is to completely build your own. You would need to be able to cut a very accurate taper and thread for the nut (assuming ER style collets). There are a few threads on the forum discussing it.

For the size range you asked for, ER40 is a good choice. And a chuck like the one I mentioned is open on the back so you can have any stock that will fit in the headstock bore.

Creativechipper, have a look at the above. It is accurate.

If you wish to use an ER collet chuck on your lathe then you need to first find a backplate with a spindle mount that matches your spindle. There is a taper on the back of this backplate that must match the taper on the nose of your spindle. It must also have the three studs needed to mount said backplate to the spindle. The front side of the backplate will be bare. You must machine it flat and drill and tap holes in it to mount the ER chuck.

DROPros sells a backplate for this lathe for $26.99. Once you have the backplate in your possession then you need to measure the diameter of the plate and find an ER chuck that you can mount on it. Many places sell ER chucks that have a flat back that allows you to mount it to a bare backplate. I won't go into details on how to do that here; you can start a thread for advice on how to do that.

Once you mount the chuck to the backplate, it is ready for use. You slap a collet into the chuck and do your thing - hold stock for turning, hold an end mill to mill something in a milling attachment on your cross slide or whatever. Since your spindle is slightly over 1" (you need to confirm this diameter before choosing a chuck), an ER-40 that uses collets up to 1" will be your best bet.

I hope this clarifies the process for you. None of this is hard and you can do it. You need to be able to face the backplate and then use a transfer punch to mark the location of the chuck mounting holes, then spot the holes and then drill and tap the holes before mounting the chuck. After that, you're good to go.

An ER chuck is useful for tool holding. It will hold work also but, in general, is appropriate only for parts that have already been turned or are threaded. This is because an ER chuck is pretty accurate and will hold an already turned part pretty concentric, whereas that same part will not run true in a 3 jaw chuck. A threaded work piece can be mounted in an ER chuck without damaging the threads so it is useful there. Otherwise, a simple 3 jaw chuck will suffice for most hobby work; it will allow you to turn a work piece the first time and have it turn out concentric with the spindle. This is called a first operation. Once that part is turned and removed from the chuck, any further machining on that part is called a second operation and requires an accurate holding device to get it concentric with the spindle. A collet chuck or a 4 jaw independent chuck is typically used for this. So, other than tool holding or working with a threaded or second operation work piece, you really don't need to use a collet chuck.
 
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Sounds complicated again

Maybe I should just clamp a er40 collet chuck with a strait shank in my 3 jaw and call it good.
 
Sounds complicated again

Maybe I should just clamp a er40 collet chuck with a strait shank in my 3 jaw and call it good.


That's pretty pointless. The only benefit would be that you can clamp finished and threaded bits without damage. You can generally achieve the same thing with shims or better planning. And you need to tighten an ER40 nut to about 100 ft-lbs. I think you might have slipping in the 3jaw with that much torque. Never tried it.

You lose the accuracy, concentricity and the through hole. I guess it just depends on why you want to use collets.
 
It may seem complicated to you AT THIS POINT. It may not seem so difficult in 6 months or a year; give it some time. Mounting a chuck on a backplate is a straightforward job that you will be able to do easily when your understanding and skills are up to it.
 
Ok looking at the spindle of my lathe, aprox1" through spindle diameter, over all diameter of spindle 4", 3 hole, features a protruding collar.

I like the idea of ER32 collet holder mounted to a face plate then a backing plate to match the features of my spindle. No draw bar no draw tube needed at this point, just ER collar to hold collets for some tooling and round stock.

So I see I may need to customize a mounting plate to mount the ER chuck to and compare all bolt patterns and alignments. I don't see any taper to my spindle or through way of the spindle.?.

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Thinking maybe this will work....https://www.ebay.com/itm/100MM-DIAMETER-ER-32-COLLET-CHUCK-3901-5033/231917611422

This looks like it would allow the collets to fit in my tail stock with the MT2 collet holder.....https://www.ebay.com/itm/11pc-ER32-Spring-Collet-Set-3-19mm-Wrench-Holder-MT2-Shank-ER32-Chuck-Wrench-BP/113189467320

Let me know what you have found that works for you, thanks
 
Depending on your skills and/or desire to learn, you can make an ER chuck custom fit to your machine. I and others have done so and I did not find it exceptionally hard. Mine is not perfect, but it's accurate enough for what I do with my machine. The main skills you will need are the ability to turn a M50 x1.5mm metric thread and to bore an internal taper of 8 degrees, the more careful and precise the better the chuck will be. I don't think I managed to save any money making my own, but my lathe has a very unusual spindle so commercial options are not an option.
 
Basically I just need to know how to attach a collet chuck with a through hole to my lathe for cheap and as little experience as needed to do it.

I never thought it would require so many options and sizes per no industry standards= a million ways to attach something vs a standard flat back or some sort of standard.

In short was looking to hold an end mill to use my vertical mill attachment.

After all this I am finally feeling comfortable with what I think I need..lol
 
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