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Collet options for Atlas 10F?

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sean69

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Hi all!

I've been looking for a 'collet solution' for my Atlas 10F - I realized that I have never turned anything more than 3/4" and usually much-much smaller. I think a collet setup is much more practical for me.

What are the home brew options? The 10F has an MT3 taper for the headstock spindle.

It appears that I can use MT3 collets for milling and make my own draw bar, but that limits the length of work I can hold. Correct?

It also looks like the correct option is a 3C collet, but then I need an MT3 -> 3C adaptor.
I'm a little hazy on the 3C option - can I make my own draw tube? does it work exactly the same as the draw bar or are there other bushings/spacers/etc to worry about?

Are there other options I am not aware of?

And, yes, you guessed it - trying to do this on a budget.... :(

-thanks
-sean
 

DiscoDan

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Check out the options on mymachineshop.net.
 

sean69

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Check out the options on mymachineshop.net.
Been there - multiple times, most of my replacement parts on this lathe came from Joel .... trying to locate a 40T & 48T change gears right now - he only has the 48T

~HOWEVER~

I am in Canada, buying stuff from the USA is expensive right now after shipping, tax, exchange and duty - I'll be close to double the prices as listed on the site.
If I can buy collets as needed & make drawbars, tubes etc - I'll be much better off.
 

ttabbal

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If you want to maintain the spindle through hole for long work, you're better off with a collet chuck that mounts to the spindle like your 3/4-jaw chucks. I believe the Atlas units generally have a threaded spindle? I have this chuck, what you choose will depend on what type you decide to go with.

http://www.shars.com/5-er40-zero-set-fine-adjustment-collet-chuck

To use it, you need an adapter plate that matches your chuck mounting system. They sell a bunch of different types, I just emailed and asked what part numbers I needed and they replied in about a day. I have no complaints with it, I use it frequently and was able to dial TIR down to under 5 tenths, the limit of the indicator I used at the time.

If you read around, you will find a lot of threads here and on other forums about why people like one type of collet or another. I would suggest you read some of those and make your own choice. As you can see, I went with ER40, but there are pros and cons to all of them. For the size range you are talking about, ER32, ER40, 3C and 5C are pretty common. That's a nice thing to have as you want to be able to source collets as you might need them. Oddball collet types are going to be irritating and expensive to purchase.

MT collets and MT chucks are generally designed to hold tools. They need a drawbar to hold them in place. You could use a tube, but either way you compromise capacity in the spindle through hole. The MT chucks I've seen don't even have the through hole.

We all like to keep costs down, it's a hobby place after all, but collets are one area you do get what you pay for. Make sure you look for reviews etc before buying so you know what you're getting. They might look ok, but some of the reviews show 10s of thou runout. At that point, you might be better served with your current chuck.
 

BaronJ

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Hi Sean,

Buy an ER40 faceplate mounted chuck. Then you wont have any restrictions on the through hole.
 

pacifica

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I went with Bison with 5c and use an air ratchet to open and close; accurate but pricey with the set tru version (more accurate) costing the most. Here's one example and you'll need a back plate: https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/to5clachplba.html
 

Rooster

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Greetings sean69, i have a Atlas 618 and ordered a morse taper 2 collet holder and 11 er32 collets from Toolprecision. The quality is outstanding and the performance is far better than i had hoped for. I already had a taper attachment i made a year ago so making a screw on collet chuck was quite easy.
The price for the collets and holder was around a $100. Can., i think for a mt3 set it's the same price.
 

hman

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I read that you're on a budget. I also realize that, being in Canada, it would be difficult (and maybe expensive?) to deal with Customs and cross-border shipping. But I don't know any really cheap way for you to go. Here are the best alternatives (LESS collets) I can suggest:

MT3 to 3C, now on sale for $90: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2244&category=
I have this set for my 9x20 Grizzly lathe.

Lathe collet chuck, 3", ER32, $130: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=
Lathe collet chuck, 4", ER32, $100: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4231&category=
 

sean69

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I read that you're on a budget. I also realize that, being in Canada, it would be difficult (and maybe expensive?) to deal with Customs and cross-border shipping. But I don't know any really cheap way for you to go. Here are the best alternatives (LESS collets) I can suggest:

MT3 to 3C, now on sale for $90: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2244&category=
I have this set for my 9x20 Grizzly lathe.

Lathe collet chuck, 3", ER32, $130: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=
Lathe collet chuck, 4", ER32, $100: https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4231&category=

Thanks All;

some great options here :) I especially like ttabbals ER40 option, though that is starting to get beyond my budget. all the other chuck options are getting costly too - that and needing a backplate added to the cost. (the budget is not being a cheapskate - it's determined by how much I am going to use it - if the lathe got daily use, I wouldn't be so concerned, but I need a serious thickness planer upgrade here too! :)

hman: the MT3 to 3C looks like just the ticket!! price is right & I was leaning towards a spindle adaptor type setup anyway - my understanding is that as soon as you introduce a chuck into the equation you are compounding runout issues.

What is the total length on that thing & diameter of the bushing? and/or does it look like something that can be easily shortened for the atlas ?
(Maybe I'll just drop littlemachineshop an email and see if they have drawings. :)
 

sean69

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Oh - BTW, yes we do pay all kinds of crazy taxes. Here in Ontario its 13% plus duty if it's an item from a non NAFTA country. and even that is sketchy, sometimes CBSA will just ignore "made in USA" labels or the box isn't clearly marked. There are a whole bunch of ways the government screws us out of $$ because an item was not documented correctly :( that % varies and there is not dollar limit for cross border shopping, so it's everything - assume 5% then there's exchange ... right now it looks like 27% ... and don't forget the extra 2% the credit card companies levy on exchange rates.... effectively 30% . and heaven forbid shipping anything VIA Purolator - they mail you an invoice a couple weeks after you get your package for "import processing fees" $10!

sooooooooo 13, 27, 2, 5 .... 47% any price you see will cost me 47% more (and then I have to get it shipped!!)
 

ttabbal

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Keep in mind, anything you add adds to runout, how much depends on the quality of the parts and any adjustability you have in them. That's why set-tru type chucks are popular, you can dial them in to whatever you need. Better sellers will spec a runout level and stand by it.

I've only used a few LMS parts, but they have been good quality imports and shipping/customer service were top notch. I've never seen a setup like that MT3/3C converter, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work.

One thing to keep in mind with collets, they have a maximum clamping range. ER40 is about 1mm (0.040"). 3C/5C tend to be lower, so you need to size your work to accommodate them or have a lot of collets. If you close them more than they are designed for, you can damage the collet and/or substantially increase runout. Same thing with trying to clamp even slightly oversize parts. This may not be an important issue for you, but it's something to make sure you know before you buy stuff. :)

I was going to find the range for the 3C, but my google-fu is failing me right this moment. Hopefully someone here knows off the top of their heads.
 

sean69

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Keep in mind, anything you add adds to runout, how much depends on the quality of the parts and any adjustability you have in them. That's why set-tru type chucks are popular, you can dial them in to whatever you need. Better sellers will spec a runout level and stand by it.

I've only used a few LMS parts, but they have been good quality imports and shipping/customer service were top notch. I've never seen a setup like that MT3/3C converter, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work.

One thing to keep in mind with collets, they have a maximum clamping range. ER40 is about 1mm (0.040"). 3C/5C tend to be lower, so you need to size your work to accommodate them or have a lot of collets. If you close them more than they are designed for, you can damage the collet and/or substantially increase runout. Same thing with trying to clamp even slightly oversize parts. This may not be an important issue for you, but it's something to make sure you know before you buy stuff. :)

I was going to find the range for the 3C, but my google-fu is failing me right this moment. Hopefully someone here knows off the top of their heads.

I took a quick peek - ran across this: https://littlemachineshop.com/info/collets_small_lathes.php

does not sound like they are a fan of the 3C collets. Interesting and something to consider.

digging around here to see what the actual collets will cost up here ... not great $45 - $150 each. mmmmm
 

hman

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What is the total length on that thing & diameter of the bushing? and/or does it look like something that can be easily shortened for the atlas ?
(Maybe I'll just drop littlemachineshop an email and see if they have drawings. :)
A call to LMS would definitely be a good idea. They're very helpful.

IIRC, I when I bought a 3C adapter and drawtube from them, the drawtube was a little too long for my Grizzly G4000 (9x20) lathe. But I was able to shorten it to fit by detaching and relocating the handwheel. I notice they have several different closers available. See:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_related.php?RelatedID=1164821961
I don't recall which one I bought.
 
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