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Converting Anilam 3200mk to Mesa 5i25/7i77

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95ttoplt1

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#1
Yep I'm back haha. Jim and DERF have been great help in the past so I though I'd see if you can get me over this hurdle. Hopefully I can make CNC chips by christmas.

This has been a long time in the making. But I finally got some time to play with it and getting the wiring figured out. I got Linux CNC on a desktop and playing a little with it.

I think I have figured out the encoder portion, just trying to figure out the drive control now and having a little trouble deciphering how this all works. I am reusing the Anilam drives SMA7215-1. I have attached pictures of how they were wired in with the Anilam set up. I'm not finding how I should rewire them to the 7i77. Any help on this would be great.

On the drive, there is a 16 pin connector in the middle on the right side. only pins used in past configuration were 3. Signal IN, 4. Common, 5. Tach, 9. Clamp, 11. Common.

The 3. Signal in is a red wire coming from the Anilam console, the 11. Common is black from the console. 5. Tach is a red wire going to the servo, paired with 4. Common black wire. 9. Clamp is a blue wire that goes to an Anilam board plug that says Servo Inhibit.

These are the pins I don't really understand. I know something from the 7i77 should hook to these. The available inputs are listed in the pictures. My Choices are ENA0-, ENA0+, GND, AOUT0,

Pictures attached, thank you in advance!
 

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JimDawson

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#2
AOUT0 goes to Signal In (3) GND goes to Common(4)

The blue wire might be a thermal switch (or over speed sensor?)

I'm guessing that Clamp means the same as inhibit. Normally you pull that pin low (to common) to inhibit the drive. If the 7I77 is a positive voltage enable output, you may have to put a relay in the circuit to change the logic.
 

95ttoplt1

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Thanks Jim!

That is kind of what I was thinking for those two. Now more new guy questions. Do I need to jumper both those grounds on the drive side? Pin 4 to Pin 11?

Also, how does the 7i77 control movement? All through that single Signal(3) wire? I guess I though there would be a +/- type pair.

Thanks for the help!

I'll look into pulling that clamp down to ground(maybe E stop switch?)
 

95ttoplt1

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#4
Can I remove this board entirely? It's listed as the control board. I assume the 7i77 will replace the functions here.
IMG_20181022_104841.jpg
 

JimDawson

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#5
Thanks Jim!

That is kind of what I was thinking for those two. Now more new guy questions. Do I need to jumper both those grounds on the drive side? Pin 4 to Pin 11?
I think they are internally connected

Also, how does the 7i77 control movement? All through that single Signal(3) wire? I guess I though there would be a +/- type pair.
The +/- 10V swingings around 0 (common), so the signal wire (3) may be some positive or negative voltage, with respect to the common, at any given time. Pin 3 goes to a comparator input on the board, then from that point the drive works its magic.

I'll look into pulling that clamp down to ground(maybe E stop switch?)
I think some additional documentation on that drive would be a good thing. Not sure if that drive needs a high going or low going signal to enable (uninhibit?)
 

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#6
Can I remove this board entirely? It's listed as the control board. I assume the 7i77 will replace the functions here.
View attachment 278172

If you were really clever you would figure out how to use it in the new system. :) It would give you optical isolation between your 7i77 and the rest of the machine. I did remove mine and replaced it with some optocoupled relays because I didn't have time to trace out the all the functions, so I took the quick route.

The only relay you really need is K2, that powers up the servo power supply.
 

95ttoplt1

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If you were really clever you would figure out how to use it in the new system. :) It would give you optical isolation between your 7i77 and the rest of the machine. I did remove mine and replaced it with some optocoupled relays because I didn't have time to trace out the all the functions, so I took the quick route.

The only relay you really need is K2, that powers up the servo power supply.
Ok thats easy to keep. I was looking at putting my desktop and everything in this cabinet.

Care to explain "optical Isolation". I goggled and came up with some thing not related.


I think some additional documentation on that drive would be a good thing. Not sure if that drive needs a high going or low going signal to enable (uninhibit?)
I'll see what I can find. Anilam information isn't the easiest to come by.

Looking at the 7i77 documentation it has a ENA0+ and ENA0-. I figured those stood for Enable postive and Enable neg. Is that not true? Would those be choices to enable to the drive(ie one of these would connect to the "clamp" post on the drive to enable?)
 

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#8
I did put my desktop in the cabinet. But I had to cut the case at the edge of the motherboard to get it to fit, didn't need the drive bays anyway :grin: Mounted it on the inside of the door.

Optical isolation is where the relay has a LED and a photo transistor in it to isolate the power side and the control side from each other. K2 is one example of such a device. The little white IC chips on the board are optocouplers, they isolate the controls from something, not sure what. This protects your controls from nasty voltage spikes.

I'm guessing the drives are not Anilam, Pacific Scientific maybe? Servo Dynamics? There should be some part numbers on them.

The ENA0+ and ENA0- are an output and return. Would be useful for operating a relay, but I see no way to use that to trigger the clamp. I could be wrong here, and the clamp may take a high going input to enable the drive. More information is needed to make sure how that works. I also need to look at the 7i77 documentation before I stick my neck out too far :)
 

95ttoplt1

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#9
I guess I assumed Anilam made thier own drives but I have no idea. Here is pictures.

Electro optical makes perfect sense. I see the extra open places now. Hmmm. Maybe I'll remove it for now and keep it for use later if I get fancy.
IMG_20181022_185830.jpg IMG_20181022_185841.jpg
 

95ttoplt1

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#10
Found this. Seems useful!

So could I run the "clamp" from both drives through my E stop button and to ground? Using that to enable my drives? It seems like the Anilam control used a command as well as E stop position to enable them.
Screenshot_20181022-191230.png
 

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#11
That was a good find, that tells how the clamp works. I didn't know Anilam had their own drives, first I have seen in a system. All of the others that I have seen are Servo Dynamics, and those drives may have been made by Servo Dynamics with an Anilam label on them.

From the 7i77 manual:
''SERVO ENABLE OUTPUTS
Six uncommitted OPTO coupler outputs are available for drive enable. Five of these outputs are (ENA0 through ENA4) are switched in common while ENA5 can be independently switched for spindle applications. The ENA outputs are floating switches so can be used for active high and active low drive enables. Output rating of the switches is 50 mA max at 100VDC max . Note that the enable outputs are polarized and can be damaged with reverse polarity. For active high drive enables, ENAN+ should go to the appropriate positive power supply and ENAN- to the drive enable input. For active low enable drives, ENAN+ should go the the drive enable and ENAN- to control power ground.''


So, the Clamp pin is + and the common is - so if I read this correctly, ENAN+ should go to the Clamp pin, and ENAN- should go to the drive common. It depends if you can change the logic of the enable output in software, because if the 7i77 switches ON the the enable output, that is going to send the Clamp to common and the drive will be disabled. On my machine, I don't have the Clamp connected at all, and just switch the power to the drives.
 

95ttoplt1

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#12
hmm, so clamp is more of a servo disable vs servo enable? I guess I can switch the power on to them and see what happens? It seems like the 7i77 simple connects ENA+ to ENA- and has a diode so current can only go one direction?

Would clamp just be the E stop function on the original machine? I can wire the E stop through the 7i77 I think.

I really appreciate all your help,
 

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#13
For whatever reason, many drives are enabled as the default condition, and you have to pull a pin low to disable. Never really did understand that thinking.

Yes, I think that would be an E stop function. I think it would connect to the 7i77 that way, or you could put another set of contacts on your E stop switch and wire through that.
 

95ttoplt1

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Ok. Started removing the old Anilam components from the box tonight (yeah I'm slow). There is multiple power supplies in the box, all separate it seems. Is there any reason to keep these? Documentation is hard to find on these and I have several good computer power supplies. Is there a reason to use these old Anilam power supplies? I'd assUme that I need to retain a 10v power supply for the drives.

You mentioned the K2 relay. Looking at that control board, it's the only part I'll be using. Can I just get rid of that completely, and turn on the drive power supply with the on/off switch on the box and wire directly to the drives(with the cap inline)? Right now I can't see how to activate this K2 relay and the space in the box would be nice.
 
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#15
You may need the 24V supply, handy to have in any case. The computer supply can go. The Mesa system should supply the other needed power. The +/- 10V analog voltage should be provided by the 7i77

No, you want to be able to power up the drive power separately and after the computer has control of things. K2 isn't very big, about 1 1/2 x 2 x 3/4 or so. Just take the board off of K2 and you'll see what you have there. K2 is what actually mounts the board to the panel. You can mount it in any convenient location.

This is what it looks like

1540437589448.png
 

95ttoplt1

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Ok. I got the K2 off the board.

Tonight's question.

What voltages do I need to run everything. I thought the BUS RET 1 & B2 wires coming from the control board to the drives were 10v+/-. After looking at things, it appears these are 110v AC. Is that correct? If so, what comes out of these drives on MOTOR + & MOTOR -?

I thought 10v servo AMP was describing the output. It seems I was in error and that's simply the control side.
 

95ttoplt1

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#17
This caused me some confusion. Look at the sticker on the board. Doesn't that imply that it's connectting 3-32vdc??

The K2 relay has a much better diagram. So the drives switch 110vac? How does it achieve rotation in both directions? Does it rectify to 55vdc?

My motors are rated to 200V, but it doesn't specify AC or DC.

Honestly, automotive electrical is so simple compared to this stuff. I'd be completely lost with out you guys.
IMG_20181025_191056.jpg
 

95ttoplt1

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IMG_20181025_205528.jpg Making progress! Started arranging stuff in the box one I IMG_20181025_205538.jpg got it unloaded. Plenty of room for the computer, hard drive and PSU. I'll have to cut a hole for the PSU air inlet. I have an additional fan I'll install in the door as well. So happy this will look all clean and neat when I'm done. This box was always a mess.
 

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#19
The control side of K2 (''coil'') will operate at 3 to 32 volts. So in most systems this means that you would energize it with either a 5V or 24V DC signal. (those are the most common control voltages) On the field side, it will switch up to 240 VAC @ 25 amps. The part number, 240 D 25 tells me this. The ''D'' means DC control side. If the part number was 240 A 25, then the control side would be AC, normally 120 or 240 V

The drives are powered by the large transformer, that is connected to a bridge rectifier, and then to a large capacitor with orange (+) and gray (-) wires connected to it. K2 switches the transformer on and off. Not sure what the actual DC Bus voltage is. It could be wired across the line through K2 with no transformer in which case the DC bus would be about 145VDC

What is the voltage rating on that big cap?
 

95ttoplt1

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you're all over it Jim!

No Transformer anywhere in here that I can see(in the other box that came with my Mill there's a large Transformer as the mill was setup to run for 43 phase. Everything in this box is ran on a single input 110v. I did get the mill to work by simply plugging this into a regular outlet. We unwired the transformer in the other box as we have no use for it.

There's a small Silver Emi filter that is between where the power comes into the box and the K2 relay. The wires come out of the K2 relay go to a bridge rectifier and then into the cap. I honestly didn't notice that little black box was a bridge rectifier until now. Cap is 5000MFD, 200VDC,250VDC Max surge.
 

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#21
OK then. That means you have the later high voltage drives :) Now you just need to switch K2 on with the 7i77 enable output and it should run :) Just let the clamp float, or wire it through a set of unused contacts on the E-stop switch.
 

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awesome I'm working on that right now. I think I'm short a couple little Hardware pieces tonight. I need the little stands to mount the boards to.
 

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Made a lot of progress tonight. Box is looking a little messy as I've had to pull wires it if the tracks to route them. But I should be able to tuck them in once I test drive everything.

I do have two separate power circuits going into the box. One is the original 110v that goes into the EMI filter, K2, Bridge Rectifier, CAP, then BUS on the drives.

The second 110v comes into the computer PSU. Power from this PSU operates the computer mother board, hard drive, 5v into the 7i77, and switches the K2(the ground side runs through the door switch and and external on/off switch). I may change that and control with 7i77 if I can figure out how to do it.

I had the PSU wired in as described and couldn't get it to switch on. I tried jumping green to black and still nothing. So I pulled the PSU out completely to bench test and it works fine. Going back together one connector and testing. Seems to get working fine, but this is where I stopped for the night. I haven't wired the K2, or 5v 7i77 back in yet. I'm thinking maybe the lead going to the K2 was too much and causing an instant trip. If so I need another plan for activating that. Open to suggestions!

Thanks for the help,!
IMG_20181026_232130.jpg
 

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#24
The second 110v comes into the computer PSU. Power from this PSU operates the computer mother board, hard drive, 5v into the 7i77, and switches the K2(the ground side runs through the door switch and and external on/off switch). I may change that and control with 7i77 if I can figure out how to do it.

I had the PSU wired in as described and couldn't get it to switch on. I tried jumping green to black and still nothing. So I pulled the PSU out completely to bench test and it works fine. Going back together one connector and testing. Seems to get working fine, but this is where I stopped for the night. I haven't wired the K2, or 5v 7i77 back in yet. I'm thinking maybe the lead going to the K2 was too much and causing an instant trip. If so I need another plan for activating that.
''(the ground side runs through the door switch and and external on/off switch)''

Can you draw a picture of that? I'm confused.

K2 should not be turning on until the 7i77 tells it to, which should be after the program is up and stable, and you press the servo enable button. The the control side of K2 only draws about 10 mA or so @ 5V, don't see how that could trip the PS
 

95ttoplt1

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#25
if it wasnt for bad luck...

It seems at some point my K2 relay has stopped working. Hopefully I can find a replacement monday. And my monitor isn't working, but hopefully its just a cable issue.
 

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''(the ground side runs through the door switch and and external on/off switch)''

Can you draw a picture of that? I'm confused.

K2 should not be turning on until the 7i77 tells it to, which should be after the program is up and stable, and you press the servo enable button. The the control side of K2 only draws about 10 mA or so @ 5V, don't see how that could trip the PS

Heres my cave man drawing. Using 12v from the computer PSU. I was going to turn the drives on once everything was ready with the external switch on the box. I would wire my E stop through the power side if this was successful. Last night the K2 relay worked fine. Today, not so much....

Door switch.jpg
 

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#27
Would that SSR be sensitive to input and output on the AC side? I'm going to test it again, useing a battery for the DC side. Maybe the power from the PSU is too dirty for it?
 

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#28
The power from the PSU should be fine. I would get rid of the door switch, that may be your problem. In an industrial setting, the door switch is a good idea in some cases, but in the home shop...... My lathe used to have several door switches, including one that actually tripped the main breaker. Notice I said ''used to have'' :)
 

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The power from the PSU should be fine. I would get rid of the door switch, that may be your problem. In an industrial setting, the door switch is a good idea in some cases, but in the home shop...... My lathe used to have several door switches, including one that actually tripped the main breaker. Notice I said ''used to have'' :)
I hooked directly to the SSR and nothing..

To top it all off the graphics portion of the motherboard gave up the ghost. So kinda starting over on that..... One step forward.
 

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#30
Hmmm, are you sure you have 12V out of the PSU?
 
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