coolant and small cnc mills

j ferguson

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Is anyone using a coolant system with their small CNC Mill? I ask because I'm trying to make sure I've thought about as much as possible before buying and assembling my shop. Put another way, has any of you had problems with heat build-up in long CNC cycles? I suppose it would be possible to add rest cycles to the code so that tool could cool off a bit before continuing the work?

??

Now that I posted this question, I see that some of the issues have been well covered earlier, but I'd still like to know if many of you are running long cycles dry? cutting aluminum? steel?
 
I've been planning a flood coolant system for my Sherline conversion for some time now. (One day I'll actually get around to it.)
http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?topic=37770.0

Cooling is one consideration, but chip removal is another. My main goal was to wash away the swarf. I've also got some cheap home/limit switches installed, so that's a big concern as well. I don't think they take well to being flooded.

I'm interested to see what you come up with.
 
I realize you're seeking a flood-coolant system and I hope you don't mind me bringing-up mist systems.

I don't use flood coolant but rather, mist coolant. The parts and bits can range anywhere from quite cold to no more than approximately 100F depending on material and cutting conditions.

I once used flood systems -mainly with manual machining and discovered that the typical "trickle-flow" coolant does not clear away chips very effectively. The amount of splatter and run-off was considerable for my setup. I was not pleased with having a wet floor and found that cleaning-up wet chips/swarf is much harder than just vacuuming/sweeping it up. My guess is that if you build a fairly splash-resistant enclosure and if you can run your liquid coolant at much higher pressures (say 25 about PSI) the swarf will get washed away fairly well. If you look at the high-end CNC machines (with totally sealed enclosures) coolant pressures are usually in the 100 PSI range and there are several nozzles aimed at the system components just for the purpose of washing chips/swarf down into the conveyor area and out to a collection bin. -Probably a bit more extravagant than what you're after...

My method with mist coolant does a pretty effective job at keeping the swarf out of the cut area and it's a highly effective cooling mechanism. Depending on how much chips are being produced, I sometimes take the shop vac and suck-up the accumulating piles while the part is cutting. I installed a curtain around the table and it keeps the vast majority of the chips on the table. The air pressure for a mist system is very low and it's only enough to blow the chips about 3-4" away from the cut. -No worries about blowing fine particles into critical areas of the machine (or your eyes).

Ray
 
I'm at the 101 level on coolant, but have been doing a lot of research on the topic. It seems that the paint on the Tormach base and chip tray is not as tough as the paint on the machine itself. This doesn't appear to be limited to Tormach, as I've seen similar threads for other machines also. The coolant tends to soften the paint. I've done a lot of research on the topic and will try some of the coolants that were mentioned specifically or being easy on the paint. On my particular machine, the paint is perfect, but the chip trays are bubbling and peeling.

Again, this info is coming only from what I've read, but some folks experience issues with mist coolant causing lung & eye irritation and also coating things in the shop. I have no experience with it, but just thought I'd mention it as a possible discussion point.

Eric
 
And I have a questions about the coolant and its freshness or useful life cycle? And how do you control the rancid smells that can be found from bad coolant? Is having a coolant system a housekeeping nightmare? Is a coolant system really necessary for the home shop machinist?
 
I'm at the 101 level on coolant, but have been doing a lot of research on the topic. It seems that the paint on the Tormach base and chip tray is not as tough as the paint on the machine itself. This doesn't appear to be limited to Tormach, as I've seen similar threads for other machines also. The coolant tends to soften the paint. I've done a lot of research on the topic and will try some of the coolants that were mentioned specifically or being easy on the paint. On my particular machine, the paint is perfect, but the chip trays are bubbling and peeling.

Again, this info is coming only from what I've read, but some folks experience issues with mist coolant causing lung & eye irritation and also coating things in the shop. I have no experience with it, but just thought I'd mention it as a possible discussion point.

Eric

Just to let you know, I read a good deal about the lung/eye irritant issues before trying mist. You should do your own reading of course but, I decided it was a vast improvement over the alternatives.

Some of the issues I discovered are:

1) Some people were running traditional coolants in their mist systems -and this NOT what should be done. They were indeed getting eye/lung problems from misusing a product. Mist coolants are different than traditional liquid coolants -although they are the same green/blue color.

2) The ingredients in KoolMist (for example) are a synthetic version of citric acid (used as a preservative) and an extremely small percentage of a synthetic lubricant. I used to apply cutting oils on my work pieces and there is NO doubt in my mind, the smoke and skin contamination from that is 1000% worse than proper kool-mist. 1oz of stock kool mist makes about 1 quart of working solution. The dilution is extremely high and physical contact is very low. All of my sinus related problems from breathing smoke burn-off have gone away since switching to mist. Because the vast majority of mist evaporates on-contact with the part, the amount exposed to your skin is trivial.

3) Several hours of continuous kool-misting uses-up about 2-3 ounces of working solution. As far as raising the humidity of the working area... I sweat way more than that and suspect bodily perspiration is probably 2-3 times more likely to raise the environment humidity. The morning blast of humidity from puddles of wet coolant was far worse.


I'm just passing my own experiences and everyone should do their own homework... Personally though, I wouldn't switch back to wet or oil for all the money in the world.

As with ALL coolants, at the end of the day, you need to wipe-down with an oil rag and give a spritz of light oil (WD-40 etc) to prevent staining or surface rust. After all, these solutions are 99.9+% water.

I wasn't aware that coolants could soften paint. I have had no sign of this but, I just don't give a darn what a machine looks like, as long as it cuts... -Again, my personal preference...

Ray

EDIT: Fixed a broken sentence. Clarified wipe-down at end of day.
 
There was an article in Digital Machinist last year by Bob Warfield (of CNCCookbook/GWizard). The topic was coolant, and he went through in detail how the least important part of coolant is actually cooling. Far more important are chip evacuation and lubrication. Chip evacuation is especially important for slotting or pocketing. Lubrication is critical for aluminum to avoid the "OH S*&T" moment when you first experience chip welding. Cooling helps, especially in softer materials or with stainless and titanium.

I have a "fogbuster" clone that I built. It is fantastic for aluminum and plastic. The only thing I don't like is the noise of the compressor. It makes almost no mess, does not aerosolize coolant, and uses very little coolant. Most of the parts that come off the machine are cold, even after heavy cutting.

I am running a converted 9x42 knee mill, but the unit I made is small, and would work well on even the smallest machine.
 
Man, this is a very timely thread.
I'll definitely do a little more research, as I'm not looking forward to having the mess and hassle of flood coolant. I'd prefer not to have to run the compressor, while machining, but it might be better than having to deal with the flood coolant. Wipe-down is definitely a good tip. My machine has a few spots of thin rust / discoloration on the side of the table.

Eric
 
Man, this is a very timely thread.
I'll definitely do a little more research, as I'm not looking forward to having the mess and hassle of flood coolant. I'd prefer not to have to run the compressor, while machining, but it might be better than having to deal with the flood coolant. Wipe-down is definitely a good tip. My machine has a few spots of thin rust / discoloration on the side of the table.

Eric

Eric / All,

Kool Mist does not use a lot of air. You won't need a high CMF rate. The line that supplies air to the kool-mist units is regulated down to 30 or 35 PSI and the nozzle opening is adjusted to let out just a pin-hole's worth of air. I have a 45 gallon compressor (located outside in a shed) and it only goes on once every 10-15 minutes. Also, I place the storage bottle at a level just slightly below the discharge nozzle. This way, you won't need a lot of air to draw the solution all the way from floor level.

Last month, Enco had the units on sale for 88 bucks and Zoro tools usually has good prices on them too. The little magnetic base is OK but on the mills, I use zip ties to fix them into location otherwise, they'll vibrate off position. I have two on the CNC mill, one on the lathe, one on the surface grinder and one on the manual mill. -Never had a problem. I use the KoolMist 77 solution. They have one other solution but the #77 is more versatile.


Ray
 
Keep it up guys, this is wonderful. I'm reminded once more how little I know about things.

You were right, I was thinking of flood coolant and now I can see that misting can solve my problem.



Thanks to you all.

john
 
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