Copper for a bushing

Thanks for ALL the suggestions and input guys. Great site !
Thats a very generous offer Todd.
Had thought about trying to plate the inside of the bore with lead or silver solder cathead.
After more thought Im wondering if a bushing is a good idea. I mentioned it above, the thickness of the soft bushing isn't going to give a clean shearing action. Then wondered if the pin sheared at the ID of the steel bushing it could spin the copper bushing inside the bore and I'd never get the old one out.
What did you mean see the post @12 David. What sort of clearance should I use if I go steel on steel? Im thinking maybe 10 or 15 thou to be sure Im leaving enough room for a grease film. Too close and I'd never get the grease to flow out from the grease jerk.
May use the copper bushing on the other end that doesn't have a shear pin though.

Thanks

Greg
 
I have never measured the clearance on my Kubota but I would guesstimate about 15 thousandths. It's enough that I can feel a bit of wiggle when there is no shear pin installed. I make my own shear pins using grade 5 bolts (same grade as the original Kubota pins). I made up a batch as a production run a few years ago when I got sick of paying $3 a piece. I typically go through 3 or 4 a season. I still have a few years worth.
 
Greg not sure what my clearance is. I would go with what Rich is suggesting. I purchased some shear pins for my machine along time ago and they have grooves around the circumference where I assume they should shear. The idea is to have a clean shear so that you can get the center section out.

David
 
In your case I would line the inside of the pipe with J-B-weld and then grease the shaft
and slide it in. After 24 hours rotate the shaft.... I've made acme nuts this way.
 
f350, believe that you are on the right track. I would go with steel inserts everywhere to get .010'' of clearance. Grease will do the rest.
Would using a big felt washer at each end to 'seal' water out and keep grease in be effective?
 
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