Could really use some help, new tapered bearings AND new spindle, still .005 off

rx2man

Active User
Registered
Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
26
Not sure what I need to be doing. replaced the bearings with new tapered and did not correct the problem. Replaced the spindle with another new set of tapered bearings. STILL .005 wobble (measured at the widest part of the spindle). I previously tried the paper trick between the chuck and spindle. Did not work. Read about dong the same thing with the headstock, paper under it at the 4 points. Did not make it any better and went up to 3 and 6 pieces stacked up. I do not know what I should be searching for to fix this. $120 in parts and its not any better really aggravates me. Just cant figure out what is wrong that needs adjustment.
 
This is an interesting problem. Can you post a picture of your indicator setup?

I'm not familiar with your lathe, but a head stock is a head stock. There can't be that many things that can affect the spindle run out.
 
OK I'm not sure what exactly you mean by all the paper stuff but I'm just trying to figure out whats wrong before attempting to give advice, was this posted in a previous thread? Is it the chuck running out or the spindle, where the outer races replaced or just the bearings? Why exactly did you replace the bearings?
 
This is an interesting problem. Can you post a picture of your indicator setup?

I'm not familiar with your lathe, but a head stock is a head stock. There can't be that many things that can affect the spindle run out.

Its a 7x12 from Harbor Freight

unnamed.jpgunnamed (1).jpg

- - - Updated - - -

OK I'm not sure what exactly you mean by all the paper stuff but I'm just trying to figure out whats wrong before attempting to give advice, was this posted in a previous thread? Is it the chuck running out or the spindle, where the outer races replaced or just the bearings? Why exactly did you replace the bearings?


In my searches I read that you can shim the headstock with paper to get the wobble out.

Yes I have a previous post, but thought it easier to start over. A few weeks ago I was turning a block of wook for a tobacco pipe. Its briar and is fairly hard wood. I forgot to tighten the chuck and the block must have bounced off the bed before hitting me in the shoulder. After that there was a .005 wobble measured at the spindle flange (the largest part of the spindle). The block of wood could not be turned smoothly and was messing up my drilling. My assumption was that I messed up the roller bearings so I pulled it apart and installed new tapered bearings. Problem was still there. So i assumed I bent my spindle, so ordered that and another set of tapered bearings. Go it finished today and there is still a .005 wobble. So now I really do not know what to do next.

unnamed.jpg unnamed (1).jpg
 
Does the chuck bolt on to face of the spindle and is it aligned by the outside flange?

Put the indicator on the taper on the inside of the spindle to see how much run out there is there.

What I am aiming for here is whether you need to do some machining on the flange to get the chuck to run true. I suspect the Chinese are not very careful about the runout on the OD.

If the spindle bore is pretty good then I would be taking some truing cuts on the spindle flange.

Edit:

I took a look at the drawings from HF, Don't worry about the outside flange at all. It is not a mating surface. The inside flange and the face are what you need to be concerned with.

Does the face of the flange run true? If not take a light truing cut on it. Same the inner flange. Does is actually fit the chuck, or is it a bit over size?
 
Last edited:
Hmmmmmm, basically no bounce at all. Maybe .00025, I hope that I was just measuring a area that is not where you should be measuring. I'll know in about 15 min when I get er back together.
 
Hmmmmmm, basically no bounce at all. Maybe .00025, I hope that I was just measuring a area that is not where you should be measuring. I'll know in about 15 min when I get er back together.

I think Jim is bang on, if the spindle bore and the mating flang are good but your chuck is out after mounting, loosen the chuck mounting bolts but keep them snug and indicate the OD of the chuck by taping on it with soft face malet, this might take a few spins and some trial and error.

Edit: if your unable to indicate the chuck try rotating it one mounting hole, if theres an error in the counter boar of the chuck and one in the mating flang and both errors combine you may never get the chuck dialed in to your satisfaction, if this should be the case and you find a good position put a mark on the chuck and back plate for future reference.
 
I think Jim is bang on, if the spindle bore and the mating flang are good but your chuck is out after mounting, loosen the chuck mounting bolts but keep them snug and indicate the OD of the chuck by taping on it with soft face malet, this might take a few spins and some trial and error.

Don, I almost agree with you. The only difference is that I would put then indicator on a ground rod (maybe the shank of a 1/2 inch drill bit) in the chuck and indicate on it. In this case, the point of concern is the chuck jaws rather than the chuck OD.
 
Don, I almost agree with you. The only difference is that I would put then indicator on a ground rod (maybe a 1/2 inch drill bit) in the chuck and indicate on it. In this case, the point of concern is the chuck jaws rather than the chuck OD.

Yes I agree 100% I guess I was thinking along the lines of a quality chuck, LOL, but yes you are defiantly right..!:))
 
Back
Top