Couple of tech/rebuild questions on my SB 11"

[ScrapMetal]

I know that the answers may include a bit of conjecture but I'm sure you guys will have a better idea than I.

On my lathe the two bearing oil cups are located in the centers of the bearing caps. When I look to the bottom of the cups I can see all the way down to the pulley shaft. Shouldn't there be some kind of felt in there? I did order the little spring/felt wiper things from Steve hoping that the ones for a 10" would work but they are way, way too long as there is only about 3/16" to 1/2" (thickness of the cap) to work with. Any ideas what to do there?

Next question may be a little easier (I hope). The bed wipers are pretty much non-existent. Would the wipers for a 10K or 10L be the same size? I would guess "yes" but it seems most everything else is different on mine....

Thanks guys,

-Ron

 

[Pacer]

I have been doing a lot of reading/research on the 10L lathes - a lot! As I was reading you post concerning the SB 11 it struck me how the 11's were not mentioned - at all in any of what I have been reading. The 10 - 13 - 14 & 16 are all grouped together, as are the 9 & 10K ... hmmm...

I think that type oiler is more common among the 9 - 10Ka, you might read thru some of the stuff about doing a rebuild of them and see if you see anything that looks like yours.

From what I remember, 1200rpm is right on in his description of the method of their oiling.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Yeah, as you've seen info on the 11" has been a little tough to come by. I guess if it was all easy it wouldn't be nearly as much fun.

Okay, judging from the looks, I can see where it's looking like a total loss oil system. I will try to look up more info on the 9-10k to see if anything clicks.

I'm just a little concerned that it's acting more like a "black hole" oiling system though. I put oil in the cups and it's gone without even running it. Pours right through with nothing staying in the cups. Guess that would work if there was some kind of internal reservoir but somehow I doubt it. So far I've "filled" each cup two or three times, one after the other. So far, there isn't a huge puddle under the lathe but the oil must have ended up somewhere. ???

I know this is just wishful thinking but has anybody contacted the new owner of SB to see if they have some kind of literature archive? They do have the serial card file at least. That's how I found mine was made in '39.

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

Good idea for pulling the caps. Almost a "well duh!" but I need that kick in the head once in a while. I really like the look of those oil drippers too. I'll definitely keep those in mind. Thanks for that.

Knudsen, thank you so very much for the offer. It's offers like that which make a board like this feel like the "small towns/neighborhood" I remember. (Cue the music from Mayberry RFD )

I hadn't even thought about using the felt from a piano. Turns out that I actually have some of that from when I had a baby grand rebuilt for my mother in law last year. I should have enough scraps to do what I need. If not, I'll certainly let you know. Just saved me $10-$15 bucks, now I gotta go buy a nice present for my lathe with the money I saved.

I'll let you guys know what I find when I pull the caps.

Thanks again,

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

Well, here is what I found....




Here is a pick of the cap, shows a grooved bronze bearing.


This is where it starts to get interesting


There looks to be some kind of felt? wiper on either side of the journal. Still not exactly sure as I didn't want to dig it out without knowing I could replace it or how deep around it goes.


Final "close up"


Now you know all that I do about what is under the cap. What do you think?

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." - I get it, it's just not as much fun. Yep, at least I kind of know what's going on in there so I won't have to worry about it as much. If nothing else this machine seems to have been well cared for. Gotta love that!

Desmocrat, I tend to be a little "OCD" about my stuff as well so I don't expect any problems now that it's a known factor. I agree with you on trying to wring more info on the 11"s out of the ether bot I'm not sure there would be enough to support another forum category. Obviously these were made for a good number of years but they are kind of like the "missing link". You know there has to be something there but big chunks of information seem to be missing.

I haven't done a whole lot with mine yet as far as parts but what I have run into has been a pain. I was looking for a new faceplate for it and ended up buying one from http://www.tools4cheap.net/ that was 1 1/2"- 8 as it was the closest thing I found to my spindle which I believe is 1 5/8" - 8 (I'll be starting another thread asking for the best way to open up the faceplate another 1/8" : ) I am guessing that the way profile is similar to certain other models just from the factory card I got on mine. It lists the bed type as "1", headstock "100", tailstock "10", etc. etc. At least from their numbering system it doesn't appear that "special" sizes were used for these units.

It would be interesting to know just why the 11" turned out to be the "red headed step-child" of SB lathes.

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

Re: Couple of tech/rebuild questions on my SB 11

I was looking for a new faceplate for it and ended up buying one from http://www.tools4cheap.net/ that was 1 1/2"- 8 as it was the closest thing I found to my spindle which I believe is 1 5/8" - 8 (I'll be starting another thread asking for the best way to open up the faceplate another 1/8" :

Easy part: spin it around and bolt it to another faceplate and turn the threads.

Hard part: Save money for another lathe to do it on

Might find someone here willing to do it for you with large enough lathe for that faceplate.

Also, I can try to find a used 1 5/8-8 faceplate for you. Probably get it for $40 or so if it exists. It's going to be a while before I can get free and go have a look though.

Knudsen, don't go out of your way for it but if you should happen across one I'd be glad to take it off your hands. Thanks.

What I was thinking of doing is to bolt the face of the faceplate to a backing plate that I already have (if I can get it all centered) then cut the threads into the backside of the faceplate. If I was able to get this set up, should I bore the threaded hole out (not sure how I'd cut that but...) before cutting the threads deeper or just set up a thread cutter and go to it?

For the other 11" guys, I'll try and get some measurements on mine tomorrow and see if they match what you have.

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

Re: Couple of tech/rebuild questions on my SB 11

Ron. the double depth of 8 tpi thread is 0.160" that means that you need an ID of 1.625 -.160 =1.465 thus If you bore out to the minor diameter you will still need to pick up the existing thread.
I would definitely open up the bore to the minor diameter. It will make it less critical to pick up the thread.
You will need a boring tool and an internal threading tool

You could use the backing plate off you chuck.
Whether you use that or another you should first take a slight chip off the surface to be sure its square. I have one of Jeffs faceplates and when I checked it out it was dead nuts on.
I would also suggest that you put some ground spacers between the faceplate and whatever you hold it to so you can bore through without hitting whats on the spindle.

I can post a pix of how to bore the ID if you want. I may or may not have a pix of ID threading. If not I can set it up and take one.

Thanks Jim, that's exactly what I needed to know. I will face the backplate and put some ground spacers in. A pix of how to bore the ID would be great if it isn't too much trouble. I need all the help I can get. ;D

center to center, front way to tailstock way: 5.75", front way to rear way: 7.25".

That's what mine measures as well.

-Ron

 

[ScrapMetal]

Excellent Jim, that helps a great deal.

Thank you,

-Ron