[4]

CT1440 Tailstock 'locking' problem

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

middle.road

Actively Learning...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
1,344
Likes
724
#1
Been searching through the sections this morning over coffee trying to figure out a tweak for my problem.
Has anyone come up with or seen an improvement for the lock down mechanism?
The lever lock (cam?) style keeps coming loose on me - at the most in-opportune times of course.
I took the tailstock off over Thanksgiving and the 'connecting rod' that drops down to the clamp plate was rubbing against the casting.
I attempting to grind/file some clearance and got it somewhat straightened out. And I've dinked around with adjusting the nut & such.
I may not have the strength to fully engage it, but when I really put some oomph into it I have to deadblow it to disengage.
I want to avoid disassembly of the tailstock because it is dialed-in real well. There's less than .0005" over 12" on a 1.5" shaft right now.
And I'm right in the midst of a (20) pc. tube run. A nice side job to bring in some $$$ to offset the holiday budget crunch.

Thanks.
 

rgray

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
1,016
Likes
532
#2
I made a lock that can be moved up to the back of the tailstock and locked down preventing the tailstock from moving back.
That way I don't have to lock the tailstock extra hard. I have a gunsmith lathe and one of the sale points was torquing the tailstock lock to be sure it is the same height every time.
I found that sometimes it would slide so I built this lock/anchor.
Bottom plate is 3/4 steel the top aluminum is 1.25 x 1.5 and the bolt 7/16.
20171226_125951_001[1].jpg
 

middle.road

Actively Learning...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
1,344
Likes
724
#3
First run of the day and it came loose. I re-did the lever for the time being until I can make a block like Russ'.
I was about to grab a cheater bar I was so flustered. Added a bit over 4" to it.
It's funny how most of the lathe is metric, but the handles and such are SAE. -go figure.
The the chrome shaft I found in my junk bin was metric. Made up an aluminum 'adapter' to go from 3/8"-16 to M12-1.75, then added the red knob.

1514351593809.png
 

rock_breaker

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
536
Likes
262
#4
During this past year this topic was discussed by several of us with the same problem. I would suggest Rgray's idea for a quick fix. As for my Enco 14X40 I found paint on the top of the clamping plate and on the bottom side of the ways. Also at the corner of the ways (both sides of the clamping area) I think I found a slight rib that I have hopefully removed with a file.
Examination of my Clausing 100 MK3 shows nearly the same type of clamping system as the Enco but all mating surfaces seemed to be machined. No problems with the Clausing.
Current plan is to attempt to improve the mating faces of the locking clamp since there is very little sign of wear in the paint on them. This project is has taken a back seat to heating the shop and the holidays..
Have a good day
Ray
 

mikey

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
4,352
Likes
4,708
#5
During this past year this topic was discussed by several of us with the same problem. I would suggest Rgray's idea for a quick fix. As for my Enco 14X40 I found paint on the top of the clamping plate and on the bottom side of the ways. Also at the corner of the ways (both sides of the clamping area) I think I found a slight rib that I have hopefully removed with a file.
Examination of my Clausing 100 MK3 shows nearly the same type of clamping system as the Enco but all mating surfaces seemed to be machined. No problems with the Clausing.
Current plan is to attempt to improve the mating faces of the locking clamp since there is very little sign of wear in the paint on them. This project is has taken a back seat to heating the shop and the holidays..
Have a good day
Ray
I don't have an issue with my tailstock moving. It is an Emco Super 11CD lathe and the tailstock locks solidly with just a gentle knudge on the locking handle. The locking nut is machined cleanly and locks onto the bottom of the ways, which are flat. If I did have a problem, I would do as Ray suggests here and clean up the mating surfaces of the lock with the ways. Bet that would solve it.
 

middle.road

Actively Learning...
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
1,344
Likes
724
#6
Heating the shop? Here I am lamenting trying to keep it warm in East TN. and you're in Yellow Jacket? Dang, I need to count my blessings
and quit whining.
Popped the breaker this evening while in the middle of knurling. Need to come up with some emergency lighting. It was too dark to see.
The sad thing is that I re-wired the shop circuit. I guess a 240v ceiling heater + floor heater and the lathe running overloaded it. No wires were warm - thankfully.

I was thinking after seeing Russ' post and such, of making a new clamp plate for the bottom side. The longer handle got me through the day but engaging & disengaging it is painful to my hand.
 

rock_breaker

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
Dec 31, 2010
Messages
536
Likes
262
#7
Sounds like a lot of load on the breaker, could it be tripping at less than full load? I took advantage of local electric code requiring a 100 amp master switch to the house I so I added some breakers to provide power to the shop, still have to do more of the wiring though.
I think you guys in the southeast are having a lot more winter than we are this year. We get Albuquerque TV and one station reported over 80 days with out moisture. The same is true here but we got a whole inch of snow about a week before Christmas.
Have a good day
Ray
 

Silverbullet

Gold
Registered
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
3,419
Likes
1,662
#8
I think I'd be putting some citrus strip on those parts under the tailstock and rails . Never hold tight on painted surface without tons of force.
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top