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Cutting/Drilling a Caliper

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rwm

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#1
I am think about using a caliper as a DRO for my drill press:



I am working on a mounting scheme. Is there any problem with cutting off either end of the caliper? I was thinking about cutting off the end with the two small holes and drilling a single mounting hole centered to the beam. I know these are capacitive but I am not sure exactly how they work and what would damage them? Who has experience with this?

Robert
 

derf

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#2
I've seen guys drill a hole in each jaw, then place the holes on a pin or screw them down. This works well for a lathe tailstock.
 

Joe P.

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#3
I did something similar, using 4” digital caliper from HF, I made a dro for my tailstock on my lathe. No problems with it working afterward, just had a hard time drilling through it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dlane

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#4
The depth rod is in the center so a center hole is out, may need carbide drills , don’t think ied cut the end off.
 

rwm

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#5
Thanks for the replies. The depth rod has already been removed. This stuff is not that hard; I have drilled one before but on the opposite end. Any one know about cutting the end off?
Robert
 

ttabbal

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#6
Thanks for the replies. The depth rod has already been removed. This stuff is not that hard; I have drilled one before but on the opposite end. Any one know about cutting the end off?
Robert

I haven't tried it, but I've read about people cutting the iGauging style capacitive scales without issues.
 

benmychree

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#7
You should easily be able to cut parts off, use an abrasive cutoff wheel, I did so with a couple of defunct dial calipers, used the remains to measure through holes and internal recesses ( I locked the measurements in place, then measured them with another caliper or mike.)
 

Bob Korves

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#9
I am think about using a caliper as a DRO for my drill press:
I am working on a mounting scheme. Is there any problem with cutting off either end of the caliper? I was thinking about cutting off the end with the two small holes and drilling a single mounting hole centered to the beam. I know these are capacitive but I am not sure exactly how they work and what would damage them? Who has experience with this?
Robert
Here is the advanced version... ;)
 

rwm

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#10
Yes that eBay caliper would have worked but I like the larger display on the Titan.
Also, this particular caliper was really hard, not just Chinese hard. The last one I cut was not so hard. I will be drilling a hole in one end of the scale with carbide. I hope that will not damage the functionality.
Robert
 

randyjaco

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#11
Over the years I have modified several calipers to make cheap digital tail stocks and quills. The first thing I learned was that those cheap Chinese calipers have some pretty good steel in them. I just couldn't drill through them. My work around was to grind slots in them with an angle grinder.

Randy
 

Ken from ontario

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#12
Over the years I have modified several calipers to make cheap digital tail stocks and quills. The first thing I learned was that those cheap Chinese calipers have some pretty good steel in them.
Randy
I made a digital tailstock scale a while back but used a plastic digital caliper, got the idea on youtube.
These plastic calipers are inexpensive and can be cut very easily, I used my portaband to cut mine but a hacksaw will do the job just as well: s-l1600.jpg
 

rwm

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#13
Cutting oil and carbide....
Robert
 

hman

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#14
If you remove the thin self-adhesive cover, you'll see a thin glass piece with "T" and inverted "T" features - thin photo-etched conductive material. This is what the read head couples to capacitively. It can be cut with a Dremel diamond disk. Might be a crummy cut, so you should leave as much extra as possible. Once you've cleared away the glass "scale," you can cut through the hardened stainless steel bar with a Dremel abrasive disk. Use a carbide or good quality HSS drill to make any necessary holes in the bar.
 

Mitch Alsup

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#15
If you remove the thin self-adhesive cover, you'll see a thin glass piece with "T" and inverted "T" features - thin photo-etched conductive material. This is what the read head couples to capacitively. It can be cut with a Dremel diamond disk. Might be a crummy cut, so you should leave as much extra as possible.
Support the glass bar with something that can be both firm and gentle at the same time. You really don't want the glass to break.
The first thing that came to mind was Play-Doh.
 

rwm

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#16
Glass? I drilled a .250 hole in this and did not see any glass. There was a layer of copper. There is no way HSS was going to drill this. It was tough with carbide.


Robert
 

hman

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#17
My mistake regarding the glass. Some (higher precision?) DRO scale bars do have glass "scales" inside. Guess yours used a thin PC board clad with copper. I was going worst case scenario. My bad.

As for drilling, you'd originally said it was easy (Post #5):
This stuff is not that hard; I have drilled one before but on the opposite end. Any one know about cutting the end off?
Robert
In any case, I'm happy to see you got 'er done!
 

rwm

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#18
These seem to vary in hardness. Years ago I drilled one of the same brand and model using HSS. This time I had to use carbide and even dulled one of those! Must be getting better with quality control of hardening!
Robert
 

rwm

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#20
The Titans are on sale. I paid $20 shipped on Amazon.
Robert
 
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