Decent 6" rotary table. vertex?

One problem with having a bigger rotary table besides how heavy some get is how tall some are . Though I only have a Jet-15 and Clausing mills I picked up a like new Phase 2 10” rotary table at a price I couldn’t pass . I put it on the Clausing yesterday and setting it up to drill holes for a backplate . Besides just barely able to lift the 120 lb table there’s not a whole lot of room under the quill . Checking the height between a 6” and 8” or brands might be worth looking into also .
 

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I have a PM-30MV which is similar size and a friend gave me a 8" Yuasa rotary table that he had laying around. Just before that I had purchased a Vevor 6" online and was waiting for it to come in. The 8" is much heavier, and does fit the table though it looks too large and I could see issues with table travel looming. I was also a little worried about wear on the ways of the table due to the weight.

I got the 6" and mounted it and played around with it too and it is a much better fit for my mill, plus it has the option for horizontal or vertical mounting that the Yuasa lacks. I am pretty happy with the 6" and will probably use it the most. True, the Yuasa feels smoother and tighter and better built, but if i didn't have the two to compare I would not know the difference.

I will keep the 8" around for holding bigger things in case i have the need, but the 6" is much better suited to my mill and will get used first every time if material fits it.

The local supply house I buy machine tools from has commented in the past when i compare the top of the line equipment to the stuff I can afford, "it is more accurate than you at your experience level, and if you use it enough to be bothered by it's shortcomings you will be ready to step up to the good stuff." I got that advice when shopping for a vice and comparing the Kurt to a well recommended import he had on hand for much less. I have to say he was very right as I am still not ready to upgrade my vise, though when I do, if I do, I will be a smarter shopper and know more what I want.
 
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devils4ever said:
So, is an 8" rotary table the correct size for a PM-25 mill? Or, is 6" the correct size? I would like to get one for my mill in the future.
Click to expand...

PM25 is about the same size as my Clausing, I went with a 6" as I think 8" would be too large to really be useful.
 
davek181 said:
I have a PM-30MV which is similar size and a friend gave me a 8" Yuasa rotary table that he had laying around. Just before that I had purchased a Vevor 6" online and was waiting for it to come in. The 8" is much heavier, and does fit the table though it looks too large and I could see issues with table travel looming. I was also a little worried about wear on the ways of the table due to the weight.

I got the 6" and mounted it and played around with it too and it is a much better fit for my mill, plus it has the option for horizontal or vertical mounting that the Yuasa lacks. I am pretty happy with the 6" and will probably use it the most. True, the Yuasa feels smoother and tighter and better built, but if i didn't have the two to compare I would not know the difference.

I will keep the 8" around for holding bigger things in case i have the need, but the 6" is much better suited to my mill and will get used first every time if material fits it.

The local supply house I buy machine tools from has commented in the past when i compare the top of the line equipment to the stuff I can afford, "it is more accurate than you at your experience level, and if you use it enough to be bothered by it's shortcomings you will be ready to step up to the good stuff." I got that advice when shopping for a vice and comparing the Kurt to a well recommended import he had on hand for much less. I have to say he was very right as I am still not ready to upgrade my vise, though when I do, if I do, I will be a smarter shopper and know more what I want.
Click to expand...
do you know which one to get? see a few differnt ones availaible.

this one for $448
vertex rt

and this one for $322
vertex rt cheaper
 
I looked at all I could find and picked the cheapest one that I could find. They all seemed to have the same specs as far as I could see and I guess some sellers were not as greedy as others. I did notice on your examples the cheaper one's selling point was Taiwan built which is usually better than chinese as a rule. Another consideration to look at is with or without headstock. I got mine without but then after using it some I kinda wished I would have shopped around a little more and got one with the headstock, as they are much more expensive to buy separately if you want one later.
 
Ok, I think I'm ready to buy a Vertex 6" rotary table for my birthday. I see there are 3 and 4 T-slot versions. I'm assuming the 4 slot one is preferred? Does the RT get used mostly with the T-slots? Or, is a chuck used mostly? If chuck, what chuck would fit?

There's a seller on eBay called thetoolsupermarket selling the 4 slot version for $300 plus shipping. It's advertised as ACCURA/VERTEX. Is this legit?

Thanks.
 
devils4ever said:
Ok, I think I'm ready to buy a Vertex 6" rotary table for my birthday. I see there are 3 and 4 T-slot versions. I'm assuming the 4 slot one is preferred? Does the RT get used mostly with the T-slots? Or, is a chuck used mostly? If chuck, what chuck would fit?

There's a seller on eBay called thetoolsupermarket selling the 4 slot version for $300 plus shipping. It's advertised as ACCURA/VERTEX. Is this legit?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Mine has an MT2 taper in the center for mounting a chuck or other tooling. This matches the taper of my larger lathe, milling machine and dividing head so I have adaptors to allow a lot of my tooling to work across all of these. As a result I have collet chucks from ER16 to 50, and 3 or 4 jaw chucks from 3" to 6" that can be mounted on the RT.
 
I bought a 4 slot 6” vertex (CME branded) because I wanted to be able to align the 4 slots with the table at 90, 180,270 & 0. Not necessary I know. Also easier to mount my 4 jaw chuck. Also not necessary.
The zero pointer was riveted to the RT body, instead of being adjustable. So the table was always 7deg off at the 4 slots.
I removed the rivets, sanded the wrinkle paint and now mark a zero line with a square & verithin silver pencil on the body.
I plan on making an adjustable Zero pointer in future, but this works for now.
Hope my rudimentary explanation makes some sense.

EDIT: as in the above post, my RT has a #2 center bore, makes my ER32 chuck & all my other small chucks & centering devices with MT #2 adapters work with a draw bar bolt.
 
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