Delta - Beaver 28-540 Bandsaw

Michael_G

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Hello all,

I have this Delta 28-540 bandsaw and it has an issue that I would like some guidance on.

First let me tell you what happened. The second to last time I used the saw, it worked fine. I cut some 2" oak without issue. After I did the cutting, I loosed the saw blade and put the saw away. (about a year ago). Recently, I went to cut another piece of oak with a curve. I had forgotten to retighten the blade. As I was cutting, I noticed the saw sounding different that the last time I used it. Then BAM... the saw blade broke - the upper blade guide foot had broken off and I was standing there stunned. Turned out that I wasn't the first person to break this saw as someone had glued (using CodeWeld expoxy) this part back together again. I can't find a new replacement on the Web so I decided to mix up some glue and fix it. That worked fine.

I replaced the blade, reset all the guides and it sounded OK by hand except for a slight grinding noise. I noticed that the blade was rubbing on the electrical box that houses the power switch, under the cover. The blade passes right past this box as has to make contact. After removing the box, it looked like every blade over time has rubbed across the corner of the electrical box ( I can provide a photo if you like). So I removed the box, grinded it off and reinstalled the box.

So now, when running, the blade starts to wave back and forth between the 2 guides. It's fine when I first start the motor up, but in a few seconds, it starts to wave back and force (looks like a guitar string when plucked). Maybe I shouldn't have removed the material off that electrical box.

I can't get the blade any tighter with the onboard hardware of the saw (meaning that the adjustment threads have bottomed out and the blade is as tight as it can be).

I don't think the blade is tight enough, but I can't get it tighter. Perhaps when the blade broke, something else altered. But the 3 wheels are all attached to cast iron frame with steel axles and the alignment seems right and smooth and the blade tracks properly.

Anybody else have this machine or know something about it?
 

markba633csi

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Sounds as if one or both of the drive wheels is still running crooked or out of alignment- check that
Definitely not normal to have the blade rubbing on electrical boxes
You might need to modify the blade tighten mechanism to get more range- at rest the blade should make a musical note when plucked
like the low string on a guitar, but it shouldn't need to be bone-crushingly tight
 
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Michael_G

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Sounds as if one or both of the drive wheels is still running crooked or out of alignment- check that
Definitely not normal to have the blade rubbing on electrical boxes
You might need to modify the blade tighten mechanism to get more range- at rest the blade should make a musical note when plucked
like the low string on a guitar, but it shouldn't need to be bone-crushingly tight


Thank you for your help. Your thoughts spurred on my thoughts. Firstly, the top and bottom wheels are non adjustable as they are stationed on axles attached to the casting of the body of the saw. The 3rd wheel, where the tracking is adjusted, is attached to a "truck" that holds the wheel axle in place. The truck is adjusted in and out for the tension. It has bottomed out and I can't adjust it out further. The axle for this wheel is attached to a pivot that can adjust the axle's axle for tracking. Works really well.

So what could the problem be? Turns out that my 82" blade is, in fact, a lot closer to 83". Adding 1" of length really throws a monkey in the works. It would be rubbing on the electrical box, if it was the correct length. I measure my current against the blade that broke and there is an obvious gap.

So, can i have the broken blade repaired? And how do I know for sure if the 82" blade that I buy is in fact, 82". My current 83" blade (the non-broken one) came from a package that says 82" on the package (Vermont blade - bought on eBay)..
 

Michael_G

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Completely by fluke, I photographed my re-glued upper blade guide and I just happened to capture the part of my "83" blade that has a join in it. With missing tooth. It's the rusted area just above the thrust bearing. This blade was new out of a box.... Factory second perhaps or is this common...
 

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  • upper control and blade joining.JPG
    upper control and blade joining.JPG
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francist

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Not uncommon but not great quality either. It’ll make a hard tick every time around because of the increased gap and could cause premature failure of the joint. It’s just the way they weld them though, sometimes the join is worse than others. We would check all the welds on the new blades before we bought them from the local saw shop, but you don’t always have that luxury, especially in pre-packaged brand name products.
 

DavidR8

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An additional data point is that three wheel saws tend to be a bit harder on the weld as the blades have to bend over a small radius because of the smaller wheels.
 

Michael_G

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An additional data point is that three wheel saws tend to be a bit harder on the weld as the blades have to bend over a small radius because of the smaller wheels.
Thank you for that. I bought the saw a couple years ago (used) and have learnt a lot since then.

I'm still very happy with this antique. Yes, I have some maintenance to do, but considering that it can cut through 2" oak without issue, it's worth it. It has power and is easy to work on. The blades are more plentiful than I thought they would be.

Does anybody recommend Olson Cool Blocks for the blade guides?
Are they worth getting?
 

DavidR8

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I have the Cool blocks on my last bandsaw and preferred them over the steel blocks because I could run them closer to the blade for better support
 

Michael_G

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An additional data point is that three wheel saws tend to be a bit harder on the weld as the blades have to bend over a small radius because of the smaller wheels.
Excellent to hear.

Thanks again.
 
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