Delta Milwauka Toolmaker Surface Grinder

I just got one of these with the extra table on top that swivels for tool and cutter grinding. It came with the centers, an attachment for index grinding and an attachment for grinding square tools that swivels in 3 axes and a finger for grinding cutters. There is some minor wear on the ways, nothing serious, and the bellows that keeps grit out of the Y feed screw was rotted away. I still need to get it running. Nice to see what size chuck it takes - 5x10". Gotta get one of those. Good luck with yours. The only thing I don't like is the coarse down feet crank. It seems only to be graduated in increments of .0005. Most grinders and feed in 10ths. But I guess I can put an indicator on it.
 
The wicks are simply cylindrical pieces of felt that hold oil in those holes. Nothing fancy. I wish I knew why all repaint jobs on old machines look like they were done with a huge paintbrush by toddlers in a hurry with no prep, masking or anything - nuts and bolts are painted, data plates are painted, you'd think the cat would have ended up painted if he hung around. They all look awful (no offense intended, it is a general statement and I have machines that suffered this fate too).

Thankfully much of the paint is gone on mine but nothing has been applied on top so it is virgin. When I paint a machine I strip it and then spray it, with all hardware removed and machine surfaces masked off. IT doesn't make a difference in how the machine works, but the result is less offensive.
 
In case you do not know, 6203Z has a shield on one side only. ZZ would mean double shielded, S would be single synthetic rubber seal, SS double rubber seals.

Good to know :)
The old bearing (might be orgianl for the motor, probably not the orginal motor for the machine) were marked with on Z but still was double shielded.
 
Good to know :)
The old bearing (might be orgianl for the motor, probably not the orginal motor for the machine) were marked with on Z but still was double shielded.
In older days shielded bearings were used a lot, because the rubber products they had then were far less than perfect, especially when you added heat and high rpm and time in service. In short, they tended to fail at times. Shields do not go bad, but have the downside of letting grit into the bearings, if it is used in a less than perfectly clean environment. These days, rubber seals on both sides (SS) will stay good for a really long time, even in relatively difficult environments and at high speeds. Modern bearings also have better grease in them from the factory. The double seals keep grit out for the life of the bearing for most applications, so many people have gone that way even when replacing single shield bearings (Z) in older equipment. Some vendors use different symbols, be careful. Make sure you know what you are getting before buying. This information relates mostly to quality bearings, not to the cheap ones...
 
Any tips for tensioning the belt ?
I used a app called easytension to check is reported mostly around 5.4 lb (24N)
But unsure about accuracy.

The belt was slightly lukewarm after 2-3 minutes running without grinding.

I have little experience with belt tension

Rpm is lower due to 50hz not 60hz , about 1427 rpm
 

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Vega77 The belt will warm up due to friction from going around the sheaves even with no load.
I like to use minimum tension that will carry the load without slipping or slapping. With most grinding the edge of the wheel will be doing the work and DOC will be 3 thou. or less. Most tension charts are for maximum grip at specified HP and other factors and will be more than you need.

If the handle for engaging the mag. chuck moves easy I wouldn't add much grease. A good molly should work fine if it's compatible with the grease already in there, but don't use any grease that is conductive, like graphite. The grease also lubes the bushing for the handle.

Finnish and dimensional accuracy will improve if you use mist coolant.
A guard at the end of the table will reduce the grit and moister that flies everywhere.
It will also catch any part that might be thrown off the chuck.
The wheel guard may have a connection for a vacuum.

Run the motor with no belt and check for vibration. Should be smooth.
Check again after installing the belt to see if the spindle is causing vibration.
Check the holding power of the chuck with a small piece, two or three square inches in size. Check several areas of the chuck!
 
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