DIY Rivet Set for steel tubular rivets

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I didn't mean squeeze them with the vise grips. I ment use the in your arbor press to make it easier . Why I said weld a foot on one leg of the grips .that way it reaches in under and around the fender. But it's up to you.
 
I didn't mean squeeze them with the vise grips. I ment use the in your arbor press to make it easier . Why I said weld a foot on one leg of the grips .that way it reaches in under and around the fender. But it's up to you.

Okay, thanks.

This gives me something else to try. Hopefully I will know if my idea works or not either today or tomorrow.

BTW Hoping you and all our friends on HM the very best Christmas and Happy/Healthy New Year!!
 
Well the pieces are made to fit and ready for heat hardening. Tried a couple of things I hadn't done before..... metric thread, and knurling. A learning experience that didn't turn out the best, but for this project it will serve the purpose.

Here are a few pictures of the modified chain breaker that I plan to use for a rivet set.

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Finally got my modified chain breaker finished up and the rivet set heads hardened. The tool worked as planned with the exception of the amount of hand torque required to tighten it down. I'll have to use a breaker bar when I actually start attaching the fender bracket. the rivets are actually stainless so they are pretty stout. With the tool, the rivet expanded to fill any gap in the holes and flared perfectly to form a good tight connection.

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When using a torch fo hardening and tempering of small parts, the first heat for the hardening is fairly straightforward just heat directly in the flame ensure the flame is non oxidising and don't burn the surface, when the part is at the desirable shade of red, drop it in acontainer of oil. when coled polish the part up, at least enough of it to see the colour run.

For the tempering try to avoid direct contact of the flame onto the part. A good trick is to set the part, thickest part to contact the copper, on a small piece of copper plate secured by grips in a vice or somewhere stable. (Steel plate may be used but will be slower), Heating with the torch from under the copper plate, watch for the colour change as it climbs up the part, when at the desired colour dunk in cooled, not cold, 70 to 100c, oil.
 
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